jeremyr62

I picked off most of the exposed encapsulation and was doing OK up to that point but levering it up to get to the hidden stuff was very difficult. I couldn't see how you could do it without destroying the casting. Eventually I used brute force and bust it. Some people have managed it so it's not imposssible. They must have a lot more patience than me though.

I agree with the run on pump thing being a possibility. My first booster heater lasted about four years then the ECU went and wouldn't send a signal to diesel pump. My second one has now gone, also after about 4 years, again it's the ECU which just cuts the whole unit after about 3 minutes of working normally. When the second one failed it was coincidental with my run on pump failing. However replacing the run on pump didn;t fix the booster heater fault. If you do strip the ECU be very careful as the encapsulation is a pig to get off. I damaged my ECU doing it. If you can do it, you stand a chance of finding the fault at least, so good luck with it. My family have grown up now so I will be Galaxyless from Janaury. This forum has been a fantastic resource. I hope my new vehicle has similar.

Did Carheaters.eu send your heater? They offer a D5Z-F ECU repair service which I might be tempted to try if they are legit.

I might get another heater (that makes it my third) but this time I'm going to put some insulation between the control module and the heater body. It's a really stupid design to put an encapsulated electronics board right on top of a diesel burner.There's a relatively large air space under the control module which I'll fill with some mineral fibre or equivalent, and I'll make a gasket out out some machinable ceramic to sit between the module and the heater body.You would kind of hope that there might have been a modification to the heater at the Eberspacher factory but it appears not. You can get them on Ebay atm for Euro389+shipping. :o

Run on pump fixed but the booster heater is still faulty. Runs for a few minutes and then packs in. Those spurious fault codes and the fact it would stop communicating with the VCDS software made me think it was bust. Oh well such is life.

Pump was seized solid. New one fitted and it works fine. Now to see if booster heater works....

OK, thanks for the replies. It's obviously as dead as a dodo. I have the new one coming so I'll fit that and report back. I am hoping this is the root cause of my booster heater stopping but I suspect that is bust now too. However I did find a video on Youtube from some guy with the same problem as I describe in my original post (dosing pump error - faulty control module) and he stripped out the electonic board, cleaned it up and it started working again. I still have my OE booster heater so might give that a go too. The car that keeps on giving.

It is a 2005 TDI 130bhp. I tried with engine off and running and I couldn't feel a thing. Car has 90k miles so it probably is bust. I messed with Vcds software on the booster heater and verified the blower and dosing pump still work but as soon as the test finishes, the boooster heater stops communicating with the Vcds software. Taking out and replacing fuse 12 renables communication with VCDS.

Not sure it is the run on pump now. When I turn the car on with the aricon turned to off I can just hear a faint hum inside the cabin. Sounds like a fan. It doesn't really sound like a pump and when I feel the run-on pump near the scuttle it does feel deadly silent, no vibration and no sound in the engine bay. When I turn off the ignition the pump/fan sound just spools down, which I suppose makes it more likely to be some obscure cooling fan located in the cabin somewhere First question. How loud is a properly functioning run on pump? Can you feel it running? I have the VCDS/VAG-COM thingy and after updating it (last used in 2009) I managed to connect to the controller of the booster heater (actually called the auxillary heater (18)) . This had 5 fault codes all the same 65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error 00-00 The thing is it does actually fire and start and I can watch the temps rise using VCDS but after a minute or two the whole thing goes offline and I can't connect to the control module. Eventually it will reconnect and the fault codes have come back. Second question is has anyone had that fault on their booster heater and what caused and what fixed it? Anyway I have ordered a new run-on pump but I doubt this is going to fix it. I suspect the run-on pump has been bust for a while and this has cooked the controller. Last time I sourced a nearly new DZ5-F off Ebay but they don't seem to show up these days. Third question. Anyone have a source for DZ5-Fs or a (more reliable) alternative?

Just to ressurect a zombie thread. I was the OP of this thread and since fitting the nearly new second hand booster heater it's worked fine. I left the fuse in place of the temp sensor so it has worked all year round. Now I have a problem with the run on pump which has failed so the booster heater works for a while and then stops due to (I assume) overheating. These cars are a home mechanics dream come true!

For future reference the control unit of my pump (model d5z-f made by Ebersp

Answering my own post here but I think the fault is more likely to be the control unit in the booster heater. I found this website though google and the translation mentions the control unit being faulty. http://www.sgaf.de/viewtopic.php?t=55606. I also found another Czech site that said the same thing. Also there is a bloke based in Poland (ebay name webastopl) selling the DZ5-F heater and he seems to have a huge pallet of the things. Looks like it's a common failing of this model heater.

The pump is supplied through a relay (relay K272) but I don't think it would be involved in supplying a pulsed feed to the dosing pump. I have dicovered in another thread that the pump does need a pulsed feed to operate. I can't believe the wires are broken to the pump. I just don't know whether to replace the dosing pump or the whole booster pump.

I have an 05 TDi Galaxy with an inoperative booster heater. I have read the very long thread and most of the many other posts about this hardy perennial. My problem seems a little bit different. The fault code reported by VCDS is 01413 - Dosing/Metering Pump (V54) 29-00 - Short to Ground To help finding the fault, I have substituted the temperature sensor on the near side wiper arm with a 10A fuse so the car thinks it's always less then 10degC. When I start the car (with DTCs cleared), the booster heater fan starts and the exhaust gets very slightly warm ( I assume the heat from the glow plug is doing this) but it then shuts off. Having read all the stuff on here I assumed it must be the glow plug but seeing as the DTC didn't mention flame outs I checked out the dosing pump. The two wires to this seemed fine with no corrosion but when I used VCDS to check it, it was deathly silent. It isn't pumping fuel which explains why the booster heater isn't working. I checked out the voltage the pump was being supplied with and it varied from 0 to 3 volts when the booster heater was trying to start. At no point did I see 12 volts which is the rating on the pump. So I then supplied the pump with 12 volts from a wire direct to the battery (and it made a single pulse as I connected the wire). The booster heater didn't start with the dosing pump receiving a continuous 12 volts. However with the help of a friend who touched the wire on and off the battery (to get multiple pulses) the booster heater did start and got very hot like normal. So my question is, is my dosing pump faulty, or is it the ECU in the booster heater that isn't supplying a pulsed feed to the dosing pump? I don't mind buying a new booster heater if it will fix the problem but I'm not 100% sure if the dosing pump needs a pulsed feed or not.

I'm only reporting what others have reported in the long threads about this but fuse 12 seems to be the one that feeds the booster heater. Also it depends why your unit stopped working as to whether it needs to be reset with a VAG-COM diagnostic cable and software. I had no idea what a VAG-COM was either until my booster heater packed up. If the unit can't start because of a fault then it should work when repaired. However if it tries to start and repeatedly fails I think it then stops trying to start and the fault code has to be deleted. You can do this without a VAG-COM but it's never been posted how (at least I haven't found it yet). I repeat all this was gleaned from this very useful site. I have no experience of any of this other than mine has packed up and I'm trying to work out how to fix it. I have a 2005 Galaxy 1.9 TDi 130PS and the diagnostic socket is purple under the fuse box to the right of the steering wheel. If anyone can tell me which VAG-COM cable I need to purchase off Ebay or elsewhere I would be very grateful.