Taygarth

Ok lets see if we can make 36 pages!!!! Any one had this before - The heater stopped working and on VAG comm had "pump earth fault" - I put a temp supply from the battery to the pump and pulsed the supply after reseting the error codes and it fired up all the time I was pulsing it - I thought the ECU was fried and gave up, A hat, scarf and gloves are pretty cheap compared to a replacement heater! Then a few weeks later (without me resetting anything) it fired up - I thought, great it has healed itself, BUT it runs until the temp gauge is around 2/3 of normal and turns off. It fires when the engine is cold again and does the same - has been doing this for a couple of weeks. Any ideas as to why it cuts out - no more fault codes have appeared - is there a thermal protection? or could it be that as it heats up the ECU in the heater it trips out? 55 plate 130bhp

Just jumping on this old thread - I now have a defunct aux heater - I have proved the heater works by supplying a temp pulse to the metering pump and the burner fires, so I am pretty sure it is the ECU. I have the classic pump earth fault on VAG Comm Anyone have usfull info on price / where to get a new ECU or any other low cost fixes / place to get a refurbished unit. I realise this is a well worn topic but you never know someone might have found the golden answer! Any info much appreciated

Update james2038 - thanks for the reply - I decided to have a quick look underneath today and lucky I did, the off side outer CV joint was in a right state, with the amount of play in it I am supprised it had not failed already. So I had to do something in a hurry - I got two new shafts from Eurocarparts as the inner joint had play in it (probably from the wobble) and the other side had play as well. I used the 'megasave' code (thanks james2038) and that brought the price down to

Hi I have the wobble under acceleration and am going to replace both drive shafts I have looked at old posts but things may have moved on - the prices vary by huge margins, from

Hi all Pretty sure the DMF is the cause of the juddering on the galaxy I am going to takle the change out myself but would like some bits of info - 1. Does any one know the torque settings for the flywheel bolts and the clutch pressure plate 2. Do the flywheel bolts come undone/do up easily or does the flywheel have to be locked somehow 3. Is bleeding the clutch afterwards striaght forward. 4. I am going to support the engine on a jack/axial stand rather than from the top - anyone done this and was it OK Any other tips and trick or bits to watch out for would be much appreciated Any one bought the bits recently to save me doing the reserch on the cheapest place? Thanks in advance

Hi I have the 130 TDI and there is a wobble on tick-over with the clutch up but when I put it down it goes away - I guess this is the DMF starting to wear? When you did your clutch / DMF was there anything to watch out for - I do not have a TIS and if I tackle the DMF I would be making it up as I go along. I guess you supported the engine on the axle stand whilst the gearbox was off?. How much of nearside suspension (if any) needs to be removed to give enough space to get the box out. And finally do I need a puller to get the flywheel off By the way 6hrs sounds impressive! Any tips from anyone would be appreciated Thanks in advance

Hi I seem to recall that you will not be able to 'see' the fuse under the seat - if you run your hand along the seat runner you should feel the fuse

Hi Probably warped front disks. I have had this a few times and replacing the front disks is not a difficult job, best to replace the pads at the same time. If you have ABS than make sure you crimp the brake hose to stop and fluid going back to the ABS unit when you push the caliper piston back in. If you are technical than you can get a DTI (clock gauge) and check the run out of the disk. If the outer edge of the disk has a significant 'lip' then they are due for replacement, there is a min thickness but I do not know this off hand

Finally got round to doing the CV joint boot. Just thought I would add a note for anyone who does a search and finds this - Some advice - Listen to the learned people on this site and take the shaft out to do the work. I tried to do it insitu (ignoring others) It is almost impossible to do a good job with it in place and it is a piece of cake to remove. Second bit of advice - buy the proper manufacture part - I did not and had to play around to get it to seal. The part I got was not shaped to match the Inner joint to gearbox boss (the boss has scollops around the O.D.), this meant that it had gaps where the boot goes on the boss, I ended up cutting the old boot and using it to pack out the scollped areas to seal from contamination. Other than that a really easy job - cannot see how I was quoted

When I do my fuel filter I pour the residue fuel from the old filter into the new one - just saves a bit of cranking and gives you somewhere to drain the old filter into

Thanks for the comments; I think I will do it insitu Just got to get a bucket of enthusiasm!!!!

Hi The inner drivers side CV joint gaiter is split on my 2005 130 PD - I have done various searches and some of you have done this. My question is does the shaft need to be removed from the car or can the inner spline drive bolts be removed at the gearbox end and the shaft droped at the gearbox end and the gaiter replaced by working under the car with the outer still assembled, even if the outer bottom ball joint, etc was dismantled to allow the shaft to be pulled outwards with the outer CV joint still in the hub to allow some clearance at the inner end flange would be preferable to dismantling it all. Anyone done it this way or is it esential to take the shaft off the car? Thanks Trevor

Hi Sounds a bit like a noise that I have started to notice - difficult to describe a noise mine also makes the noise if I hold it in any gear and slowly increase the RPM - the noise then starts - it seems to be when a bit more pronounced when I take my foot of the gas. But is always there as I am changing gear. It has me baffeled - i have not heard a noise like it before and cannot tell specifically where it is coming from. Does the above sound like you noise? MK 2 130 TDi 2005 around 68000m same clutch flywheel etc

There are many posts on the Aux heater. You should only hear the ticking noise when the heater is trying to ignight ie when the outside temp is cold enough (cant remember the outside temp but it is around 10 deg C) the ticking noise is the spark plug. I had the problem on my galaxy but it was a 1998 I changed the spark plug and the metering pump - the pump was under the rear off side wheel arch. You will probebly need to clear the fault codes before it will try to light as it will be shud down after around 5 failed ignitions

So the car is now at it's service - Just had the call - cost for new CV joint