richaber

Just in case anyone else come up against this. The blue connector resistor ending in E is for the 3 speed fan in the rear cabin heater. Only the green connector ending G suits the front blower.

Hi - did you ever measure the resistance values?? I had a problem on our 55 1.9tdi where the fan only worked on 3 and 4 but ac light only came on speeds 1 & 2 I had a new resistor from the local VW/Ford dealer but it is the version ending in E,, 7M0959263E, the original is ending G,, 7M0959263G The dealer tells me that the shift from G to E is just a version update and the G is no longer available. Now the fan seems to work on all 4 speeds but the AC only works on No1... Have they sold me a duff, or do I need the G version? Rich

my Mrs had the 'key stuck in the lock in the locked position' this afternoon. Door was deadlock shut and would not open from inside. Could open the car with spare key/blipper. I did take the card off with the door closed (tricky but not impossible) but I didn't need to and it was no help. The fault is at the back of the lock barrel, you need to remove the handle to get at it. This can be done with either a very long slender torx or an angled one. Either way, you have to get the rear door at just the right angle so that the torx key either angles in between the rear door and the driver door or from inside the car past the rear hinge. Once you get the torx screw out the handle pops out and you can fit new parts. Available from dealers for about

I can't remember now, but does that sensor go through the connector block on the injector pump?

Could even just be a dodgy brake or clutch switch......these can cause havoc with the ecu. Well, I had all these problems on our old R reg 90bhp, changed all the tubes, checked the valves, checked the turbo and wastegate, but would still suddenly lose power as you were accelerating away. I am convinced to this day that the problem was dodgy connections in the multiplug on the fuel injector pump, possibly the feed to the stop solenoid, not keeping it open fully and starving the thing of fuel. I gave the whole lot a good clean and wiggle and it was fine for the last 3 years we had it.

Please excuse the bad form of following up one's own post... Finally got a round tuit and fitted the new fusebox and cable this morning... Replacing the fusebox is easy. Note that it clips into a plastic base which stays on the metal support. Changing the cable is a lot more fiddly. Pull off the engine cover to see it. Still loads of other stuff in the way. You need the hands of a gynacologist to get to all of it. The plastic clips that hold the cable to the car at various points come with the cable, so you don't have to be too gentle removing the old ones, I chopped the stub off the back of most of them with a chisel. I failed to get all the clips back in, the one one the back of the alternator and there is one somewhere to the back of the windscreen washer bottle. Took the best part of 2 hours.

Wow, can't believe how many problems this fuse box gives. Have just bought a 55 (06) 130bhp tdi to replace our R reg Gal. It's only done 45K and all good but last night Mrs phones 'weird dashboard lights and radio going on and off, now it won't start'. I popped out and bodged a repair to get her home. I can't help with what the red highlighted wire is because I haven't looked into it yet, maybe that feeds the main fusebox? But now I look at the pic I took I see it is showing signs of discolouration, I will have to investigate that when I change the fusebox. I note Willie Krashitt remade the end of that cable. Am so grateful to Rusty Nail for posting the parts numbers for the fusebox and alternator cable. I agree it's false economy just to change the box. Have attached a pic of the fusebox to add to the rogues gallery. The older Galaxy inhibited the rear cabin heater if the heated screen was on, but in this one you can have everything on at the same time. An amp too far maybe? Been away from the forum for some time but it's great to see it's still going and as helpful as ever. Rich.

[ there were spy shots of the new sharon on auto express a couple of weeks back how it might look have since driven the mk3 (2007) galaxy thanks to a mate who runs a car rental business. Our concerns about the rear seats were unfounded. The sitting position is more or less identical to mk1 & 2 gals but there is more leg room and elbow room, plus more room for luggage. And the way the seats fold flat is good. So am on the look out for a nearly new Galaxy, our R reg 1.9tdi about to be pensioned off after 11yrs service.

Sorry - not about Smart guard, I wondered how the new Gal compares to the Shalambra in terms of the rear seats. We have an aging Galaxy which we are looking to change. I had been leaning towards a 2007 Sharan because the seats are identical to the old Galaxy's. We have 4 teenagers (our own - not kidnapped) However, mate is saying for that money why buy a 12 yr old design when I could get the new shape Galaxy, a more modern looking car. But I was concerened that the seats would be the slide in the floor type which might not be as comfortable as those in the old galaxy. Can anyone advise please?

Just to add to this, we have a Mk1 1.9tdi and I'm sure there is a bad connection issue in the multiplug on or around the injector pump. We have just had the low power thing, i was driving along and it was if i had lifted my foot halfway off the throttle. After a previous episode like this I wiggled everything round the injector pump, started her up and back to normal again. Haven't had a chance to have a proper look yet.

Forgive me folks for I have sinned and it has been months since my last post. Friday I joined the cambelt hall of fame and thanks to tips from this forum it all went pretty smoothly. I basically followed the Haynes 'remove the four bolts' Manual. Some of the instructions could be in a better order. Next time (if there is a next time) I would remove the auxiliary belt pulley early on, as soon as the belts are off. The four bolts are a t**t to remove and I would suggest buying 4 new ones before you start. One came loose with an impact driver but the other 3 had to be tapped round with hammer and cold chisel. Taking the front wheel off makes things a bit easier but do all this before you remove the engine mounting, or you have to jack the engine and car up together with two jacks... Also as soon as the front wheel is off you need to have someone stand on the foot brake to stop the whole lot turning. I changed both the auxiliary belts while I had them off and a new camshaft cover (rocker) gasket. What no-one mentions is how awkward it is to see the timing mark on the flywheel. Bl**dy Germans! bless. Ok, so it's under a rubber bung in the top of the bell housing. The 'mark' on the flywheel is a dent made by a flea with a twitch and needs an electron microscope to see it! I removed the 2" section of rubber hose that joins 2 sections of the intercooler pipework so that I could see the hole in the bell housing. I used a maglite penlite torch to see in there. I see someone on here has recommended removing the battery and coolant bottle to get a better view, maybe next time I'd do this. I did remove the plastic cowl that goes round the battery and the intercooler to manifold pipe. Taking the temp sensor out of this pipe allows it to drop down past the cooling fan. I borrowed a kit from a Ford garage and used the camshaft locking bar, 2 of my own feeler gauges and the fuel pump locking pin. Both of these could be made yourself. I have read that a suitable size long reach socket would fit in the fuel pump hole. The locking bar could be a piece of flat steel. The slot in the camshaft end is off set so it's impossible to have things the wrong way about. Both the idler and tensioner should be in the kit, don't fit the idler until the belt is on. Getting the belt on was a bit of a job, I started at the top and levered the last bit on to the crank pulley with a small screwdriver :lol: . After it's on fit the new idler and tension the tensioner. I did use the proper 2 prong tool for this but again you could knock something up. I turned the engine round again and again and again using a socket on the crankshaft to reassure myself that all was ok. BTW I did not loosen the camshaft sprocket from the camshaft as per Haynes. I assume this is to allow for slight tolerances that might mean the camshaft sprocket needs to be adjusted on the camshaft. Mine went on ok as I figured it should, being like for like. After I turned the engine over a few times I put it to TDC again and checked that the locking pin and bar just slipped in. Then, as the manual says, reassembly is simply reversal of removal... I've never been so nervous about turning key. When it didn't blow up I fitted new drop links and changed the oil and filter! Sorry for the long post, hope it spurs someone else on to do it. Rich

Is your second name Robinson???? :P

its for when you've been naughty -- swearing upsetting mods etc, only you can see your own warn level.. :( can't think what i could have done, it's at 0% is that good or bad?

And if the garage can get it to run when hot... i think you need to step back and start again, heater plugs and stop solenoid etc <<<<<< and while i think about it -- what does this warn thing mean??

It seems strange for the diesel pump to fail just like that. I'm still wondering whether my power loss issues were due to dodgy plug connections around the pump (stop solenoid, timing, and start of injection etc). Have you given yours a good old wiggle, and the connectors... Have the garage confirmed that the timing belt has not slipped?