foxyfowler

Thsi was a VERY useful description on removing the CV from my Jan 2001 :lol: Galaxy. A couple of additional things that may help anyone else doing the job. 1. After removing the 2 x Allen screws, my lower ball joint housing required some encouragment with a chisel and hammer to part company. Nothing heavy, but a little knock. 2. I also stuggled to remove the hub from the CV. In the end I resorted to screwing the driveshaft long bolt in so that it just protruded from the face of the hub. I then used a smal club hammer to gently drift it off, continually srewing the bolt a little further out as it parted company. Be careful to keep the hammer face square with the head of the bolt. 3. Finally when I tried to use the driveshaft bolt to remove the driveshaft from the CV joint it was very tight. I used a chain type 'oil filter rmover' to prevent the CV joint from rotating and had to use a large amount of pressure to even to get it to start releasing. Finally, when the bolt was all the way in to the CV joint the driveshaft still hadn't released. I then resorted to cutting a 2" section from a spare bolt with a diameter so as to fit easily into the driveshaft bolt hole and then screwed the driveshaft bolt in after it. This did the trick.....bingo!!! Also found a source for the CV joint on Ebay http://stores.ebay.co.uk/THE-MOTORIST-WARE...9QQftidZ2QQtZkm Cost me

Thanks for th eidea and I must admit that I hadn't thought of using the hot glue gun. Has anyone ever replaced this section of dashboard? Is it a DIY job?

I have owned a 2001 Galaxy 1.9Tdi Ghia from new and have always experienced creaking noised from the dashboard. Seems to flex when moving. I have now discovered the problem which is caused by the plastic section that holds the glove box compartment fracturing. There ar two screws holding this part of the dashboard and the plastic aroung the screws has fractured. I have managed a temporary fix but it won't hold for long. Has anyone else experienced this problem and if so, how did you fix it. It probably needs a complete new section of dashboard - is this available and is it a DIY replacement? Any suggestions gladly received.

Thank you all for your assistance and advice. Now had it done by the professionals Hall's Auto Electrical in Swindon. (Also have a branch in Yate nr. Bristol). Very efficient and charged me for 2 1/2 hrs labour and it took them 4 hrs. Total cost for compressor + dryer/filter + vacuum + gas re-charging

Final update to this saga. Didn't get much response from the Membership so I can only assume that nobody has carried out this job. Went to Hall's Auto Electrical after chatting to them on the phone. Seemed to know what they were talking about. Anyway they inspected the compressor and found that the nut securing the clutch plate was missing and that the clutch plate splines had disintegrated. They tried very hard to get a replacement clutch plate but all their suppliers would only supply a complete clutch assembly which was to cost almost as much as a new compressor. Anyway, they will replace the compressor, dryer / filter, recharge etc for a total of

Thanks Richard. The quotes I am getting are all in the

My 2001 Galaxy 1.9TDi has started to make a screeching noise from the air con compressor. The clutch does move independently but does not rotate smoothly when turned by hand. I think that it engages when set to climate control, cause this is when the screeching starts. It stops when Econ mode is selected. It was cooling up to getting the noise, but not so well as it did a few years ago. It has never had the gas checked or topped up. My local independent garage think that the compressor (278 + VAT) should be replaced, together with the filter/ dryer (

Have given up with the Autonostic USB lead. Have wasted too many hours trying all sorts of fixes. Have now ordered the lead from Ross-Tech. At least they answer emails which is more than Autonostic or the Ebay seller does! Thank you to all who gave advice.

I can successfully run the 'Test' from the options menu in Vag-Com. When i connect to the vehicle the two red LED's light but when it starts to run the diagnostic all I get is the message ITE=0 in the top left had corner of the display. It then shows that it is waiting for a few seconds and then re-tries. It does this about 4 times before it gives up. I am going to try de-installing the lead today and then re-install under the XP Control panel / Add Hardware and load the driver via a memory stick. I may be able to force it this way, to taking the correct driver. Failing this I will probably order a lead from Ross Tech.

That is the same driver that I have installed. I will download it again and install manually as I did last time. The annoying thing is that it self tests OK on Vag-Com but will not communicate with the vehicle. So close but so far.......

Tried again on my Galaxy and also the Sharan around the corner. You're right about the negative feedback on the Ebay item. Have emailed the seller but no response...like the others who complained. BUYER BEWARE on this product. No intend to try a serial version but no sure if my Sony VA10 will work with it as it only has a 25 way printer 'D' connector. Has anyone tried a serial version cable with a standard 15 way 'D' connector via a 15 - 25 adaptor? Can anyone recommend a supplier of a reliable interface Vag-Com cable?

Hi The ignition is on, and I then start the VAG-COM programme. I suspect either a bad connection into the socket on the car as it hasn't been used for 6 years, a faulty interface cable or software driver; although the self test wouldn't work without the correct driver. Planning to ask a neighbour who has a Sharan, if I can plug it into his car to give that a try. According to the Ross Tech web site, the baud rate should be set to '0' and when it communicates with the vehicle for the first time, the programme automatically assigns a suitable baud rate. Thanks for both your comments. Will let you know the outcome......

This topic has been covered many times, but I am unable to fins any previous thread to cover this specific problem. I purchased an Autonostic USB cable on ebay, item http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=230104697271 Downloaded VAG_COM 409.1 from Ross Tech. Also downloaded XP driver from the Autonostic website and got it to pass the TEST by eventually using COM port 3 and not USB!!!! Plugged into car and selected Chassis Model as Sharan. Tried autoscan but all addresses came up with ITE=0 which means no communications with controller. It cycled through all the internal addresses but always with the same result. The Baud rate is set to 0 as per default settings. I have checked that the diagnostic lead connector is pushed fully home into the diagnostic socket on the car (2001 Galaxy 1.9TDi) but it would appear not to 'see' the vehicle. Any ideas what I am doing wrong? Any ideas appreciated.

Hi jkspoff Purchased an Autonostic USB cable on ebay, item http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=230104697271 Downloaded VAG_COM 409.1 from Ross Tech. Also downloaded XP driver from the Autonostic website and got it to work eventually using COM port 3 and not USB!!!! Plugged into car and selected Chassis Model as Sharan. Tried autoscan but all addresses came up with ITE=0 which means no communications with controller. It cycled through all the internal addresses but always with the same result. The Baud rate is set to 0 as per default settings. Have you any ideas what I am doing wrong? Any ideas appreciated.

Thanks jkspoff Will check it out and order the appropriate cable. Will let you know how I get on.