Zork

Ok, thanks.

I paid

Thanks for the reply. Both keys were tried to no avail. Anyway the good news is after changing the dreaded relay 30 (which is actually Relay 27 with the number 30 on it), it is now working again. The next question is, why does this relay fail so often? Is it getting too much power?

Hello. I have a 1999 2.3 GhiaX. About three years ago I was on holiday when it kept cutting out then wouldn't start for a short while. It would then start. I think this was when it cooled down a bit. I eventually got home and with advice from this forum changed a relay, (can't remember the number but suspect it may be No.30).I don't recall any fault lights. Anyway to today. The car is on my drive and hasn't been driven since yesterday. It did 'judder' the other day which reminded me of what happened prior to the above issue. It now won't start at all. All ignition lights are on etc and it turns over, but no sign of firing, which is similar to before. Only this time I have a door LED fault of 1:6. There is also an intermittent 'beeping' sound from the dashboard after I try to start it. I have tried disconnecting the battery, ( seemed like a good idea!) but that didn't work. Could this be Relay 30, again? (which I will try as it is the cheap option), or something more sinister? Oddly I have just come back from holiday and both times I was driving for several hours at a time, so I wonder if something is wearing/burning out with prolonged use? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks Sparky. Didn't see your post until I'd had it fixed, but I will bear it in mind for the future.

Thanks. That makes sense now. I'll let the mechanic sort that bit out.

Hello. I'm having to change my front coil springs on my 1999 2.3 Ghia X and I thought at the same time I would change the shock absorber top mount bearings. I can source the latter which seem to come in two round parts, the mount and the bearing that fits in it. But is there a metal plate that goes over this ( the bit that fills up with water and corrodes!)? If so, what is it called and where can I get them.Or is it just the two parts? Any help would be appreciated. Rob.

Hello. Can Eurolite beam deflectors be re used? I don't see why not, just wondered what might be the best adhesive

Success! Changed the thing. Took me about 50mins following the excellent instructions from Graham in FAQ. Why are they so difficult to get at? It's hardly a quick fix job. I guess I may never know if that was the problem. ;)

Thanks Stevoo, I read the FAQ which refers to a Mk11 and was just about to ask how I access it on a Mk1. I bought the relay today. It's black but has a big No. 30 on it. Cost just over

Thanks for that. I'll give it a look. Didn't realise it was that common.

!999 V 2.3 Ghia X Hello, I have just had my first adventure driving in France. The other day after about 45mins of driving I felt a slight cut out, but the engine kept going so I ignored it. Then yesterday on the motorway the same thing happened. Soon after I had a total power loss. No warning lights. I pulled over and fortunately it restarted immediately. Although, I noticed the temp' gauge was slightly hotter than normal, but still in the NORM range. I drove into Calais parked etc then went to the tunnel with no further problems. I turned the engine off at immigration and that was it. It wouldn't start. It turned over but there was no firing. The tunnel recovery guy came along and fiddled with a few wires which he told me was the fuel pump connector and it started. I was waiting in the train queue ticking over and it did the same again. The chap came out and tried again, this time he took the wire off the temperature sensor, ( so he told me in his best english) and it started. This was then replaced. I got on the train and drove about 80miles when I got off. It cut out three more times when I got near home but restarted OK. I have no idea if the connectors had anything to do with it. It seems to me that it happens after driving for some distance and the engine gets hot. Any ideas? ( it reminds me of the problem with Hillman Imps when the fuel used to evaporate out of the pipe). Incidently if you break down at the tunnel they will put your car on the train and get it back to England.

Picked up the bits from VW...total cost

Just phoned VW

Thanks Chicosi, I did see that and will probably buy it. Seems a reasonable price. Zork

Thanks for that. I might have a practice on one from the breakers first. Zork :16:

Hi, I've solved this, and for those that may be interested: I'm not a great one for coincidences, so I wondered if I left the lock in the global lock position when i was messing about with it. That's exactly what I did. So I took the handle off swapped it with the passenger one, for ease of use, and it's all working. I also learned how to remove the door card even though I didn't need to, grrrr. Thanks to Wolfie for the 'how to' guide. ( had I read Greg's comments on his post then I would have known not to remove it.......sighs). Next project; Does anyone know how to get the 'retainer' off from the back of the lock barrell? Zork.

Hello. I have a 1999 2.3 GhiaX. I opened the electric windows yesterday and when I tried to close them they wouldn't close. This applies to all windows even using their individual switches. All will open but not close. The global system, however, does close them all. The passenger footwell isn't wet ( I can't see anything under there any way, except for a wheel changing kit!). My knowledge of electricity isn't great, ( It is in the same catagory as magnetism, gravity, voodoo and poltergeist activity), but if one switch/connection was faulty does that mean none of the switches would work? Could it be a fuse? Related items: My drivers door barrell recently came out of the lock, I was twiddling with this the night before and all the windows opened, I closed them using the global system and the next time i opened them............................ The passenger door was closed just before I tried to close the windows. The central locking is intermittent at best. It rarely works. On the upside, I fixed my wiper linkage last year. ;) Any help would be appreciated. Zork

Hi, tyre pressures are on the inside of the petrol flap on mine. Zork.

Hi again. Re the spindle cleaning thingy! My theory was that sooner or later it will burn the motor out, and in any case I couldn't rely on the wipers, so if I damaged the linkage when trying to remove it, then that is all i have to replace, for now! Just to try and help a bit further this is my experience, i know it is already in the forum but there are a few minor differences.. (My galaxy is a Mk1 but i suspect it won't be that different). First mark the position of your wipers on the screen with some tape or something. Take off the nuts holding the wipers on. Pull the wiper arm out from the screen and jiggle it, it should come off the spline but may need a bit of WD40. I then undid the expansion tank ( or whatever it is called, the plastic rad tank) and moved it out of the way ( just one screw). Then undid the plastic cowling/screen which encases the wiper gubbins, across the width of the car,three screws. Now the fun part getting that out, it does come out with some patience generally towards the offside. You will then see the motor attached to the linkage. Unplug that, ( I had to help it with a screwdriver) and release the cable clip from the linkage ( a screwdriver at the base helped here). On mine, ( I think there are two bolts on the Mk11), there are three bolts holding the linkage to the car. undo them and it is free. Again another fun task jiggling to get it out, again towards the offside. Place the housing in which the spline lives in a vice or suitable workbench and remove the small C clip with a screwdriver, don't let this fly across the road!, then there is a washer, and beneath that is a rubber 'O' ring ( which is why you can't get any lubricant in!) then put a suitable nut on it and tap it out. Don't go too mad or hit the housing as it is cast and may shatter. keep feeding it WD40 and jiggle where possible, (I put a spanner on the nut in the centre of the linkage to move it about, don't know if this could damage the motor though) eventually it should come out then clean and lubricate as necessary. There may be spacers/shims at the bottom end of the spindle, don't lose them! I wouldn't use vaseline for the same reason i wouldn't fry my chips in engine oil! Then reverse everything. Top tips, get a container for offside, nearside and middle and put the bits in them!! Also before you put the wiper arms back on run the motor and allow it to 'park' otherwise you will end up with the arms in the engine bay, a broken linkage and a burnt out motor. i did mine over two days, dismantled on Saturday, cleaned and re-assembled on Sunday. Less stressful that way. Hope this is of help to someone. just bear in mind that even the same model may have slight differences. Good luck. Zork ;)

Hi just a couple of points that may be of interest. I've just stripped down my wiper linkeage. Spindle one took about half an hour to tap out using a hammer and WD40, the other took an hour and a half. They were seized almost solid and could barely be moved by hand, so patience is the key here. Apart from cleaning the spindle I cleaned the bushes with a piece of dowling in a cordless drill with wire wool wrapped around it, then used valve grinding paste on the spindle in the bush. It now spins around freely. The lubricant i used was 'copperslip' a non seizing 'thin' grease. Make sure the nut ( or preferably a spare nut) is on the thread when you tap it out. You may also need something to knock the spindle through the bush once the thread has disappeared, something made of copper or ally will do. ( Smaller than the hole of course). Don't x thread the nut before you hit it like I did and spent

Hi, I bought Nokians, reinforced, about

Oh well, thanks anyway...sigh. perhaps i'll stick a photo of the other button over the hole! Zork.

Hello, the retaining clip ( or whatever it is) no longer retains the button for my rear offside electric window. The button has now vanished into the door. Can this be fixed without removing the door card. Zork.

Thanks, I thought it was that type but couldn't budge it. time for the screwdriver i suppose :lol: Rob ( Zork)