CasaPaulo

I joined the Club of breaking the casting,

>>>>>it must be an age thing<<<<<< AT LAST, well it's something we agree on! You're probably a kindly Old Curmudgeon but in hinting I'm a tad potty for putting up with dodgy brakes, when I said they are NOT. You should've forseen a reaction of sorts, especially as I sought PRO advice. Then painting a misleading scenario of a brake pedal on the floor whilst going down a hill (wrong!) Ignoring those who insist their diesel car brakes are perfectly safe & official MOT testers. Mine has been tested twice! But still stubbornly inferring you are RIGHT. Your correct it's an age thing! or pig headedness in my case. I say the modern system is safe, you wish to contradict citing only basic old fashioned braking principles. By the way are you really sure (100%) you can't pump your brakes (diesel only) as if bleeding, then keeping the pressure on, the pedal will not slowly sink to the floor? Another stubborn argumentative............................... Paul xxx

>>>>>>>>I'm amazed at the people that say yes this is normal<<<<<<< I'm one of the contented 'amazing people' who fully accepted the professional explanation given me by my Seat Garage, in having a slightly soggy pedal when new front pads were fitted, especially too, as I had queried their competence and had them redo all the bleeding process. Even though they'd forecast it prior to fitting, citing the scored front discs AND I could push the pedal to the floor. 2 years on I have the the irrefutable evidence of a further 20k safe miles, tested on mountains! I have absolutely excellent brakes, which I've just pressed totally to the floor! whilst pumping the pedal when stationary (engine on) rock solid otherwise. If my brakes are faulty may they stay that way for ever. I still don't believe the Seat garage lied on this safety issue.

>>>>>>>>you apply the brake the pedal slowly sinks to the floor, is this normal?<<<<<<<< Yes it is. I had a tantrum & stamped my feet after paying plus

I have a relative who's had many many, new Galaxys usually a new one every 6 months or less and he generally ticks all the options boxes. However, he didn't last time around, the general opinon of the rear a/c was, that it was sorely missed. For the front passengers there's no real difference but a massive loss of comfort for everyone else. He opted for a manual too on a whim and reasoned that on his long journeys, mainly in Germany he's in top gear any way, so that wasn't missed, but the extra fuel saving and performance was considerable, plus he got 130 bhp (Tdi) not 115. I wouldn't give you tuppence for the flashy very bouncy wheels & tyres though, reminded me of early Escort XR3 s Ugh!

I had the clocks replaced under warranty because the L/H side did not light up, apparently it just wasn't possible to replace bulb(s) On fitting the new one the miles were set to about the true original reading. He said the problem 'for him was converting from K to miles in his head' so it must be poss to exactly reset, knocking off 1000s has been the 'gravy' for shady s/h car dealers for eons. On a prior occasion to investigate 'not fully lighting up' all readings of the trip computer, fuel consumption, dash etc only read out in Kilometres and he gave instructions over the phone to reset to miles by pressing the trip or something for approx 30 secs.

Make out your will, leave explicit instructions with legal people Have additional health Insurance inc air ambulance Have your blood group tattooed under your left armpit Have a comprehensive first aid kit, French dictionary or throat spray to shout Have a emergency mobile phone Have girders welded to your bumpers Avoid all the Camion drivers after they've had a 2 bottle of wine lunch Carry cash Ignore all the above Relax, drink beaucoup de vin, eat gourmet food costing a pittance, use cheap diesel, drive along deserted roads & marvel at the old architecture or the flair used in all new designs. I've never encountered any 'quaint' driving habits, the yellow headlamps have now gone too. I love the place, not big cities so much though.

Whilst in San Miguel de Salinas (SE Spain) I used the Seat Main dealer to provide the 50k mile service on my Seat Alhambra TDi 110 bhp it cost around

Channel X Speedferries.com are charging keen rates for a large car i.e 2.90 High. A roofrack plus upright bikes & Gal would be lower? The website was slow but

My W reg Seat SE does not have a computerised variable service 'brain' monitoring the quality of oil, mileage etc, it's got a bog std 10000 mile alert. The fact neither I nor the garage can remember to reset it when it does have a 10k service means it forever 'tells' me it needs a service or oil within the 10k mid service schedule period, which is when I last saw it. I reset it as per the easy instruction in the handbook, then 10k later, it lights up. What I can't recall is how to switch all the readings fully over to K instead of mph, that's not in the handbook, but it involved pressing 2 buttons for 20 secs or so. Did it once before. Apparently there are many other 'readouts' obtainable by pressing CC buttons in sequence.

Am I alone in thinking I've no wish to provide any car passenger with a DVD let alone lobbing out upto

I don't wish to seem too smug, especially if mine is to go wrong in the future which is a foregone conclusion seemlingly, but my CC is almost perfect, it's a true set & forget system , I've never a need to tinker with the 22c setting or any settings EVER, it's Auto always, extremely comfortable. If I've many people aboard and they or it's damp and persisting with rain I press the heated front screen to assist, that's it! I think the CC is wondrous. Everytime I use a 'humble' car like the new poverty model Sharan hired recently, I'm utterly miffed in forever twiddling knobs. I'm a real fan of my CC. What's more it's regularly proved it's worth in extremes of zero ish to summertimes 35C or higher ambient temps. My next car WILL have CC before all else, with engine, body gearbox as secondary considerations. Maybe I'm lucky?

Yes that is the one, and at risk of labouring a point, because believe me I TRIED and tried, I willing to bet the entire CasaPaulo family fortune for now and ever. You WILL NOT REPLACE THE POLLEN FILTER WITHOUT loosening the wiper linkage on my car. Furthermore mine is the last of the line before the new shape yr 2000, maybe the wiper linkage varies a bit in bulk too cos it's almost impossible to remove when the wipers are vertical, totally impossible if not, even then I gouged a untidy lump out of the plastic housing causing damage too.

The explicit diagrams are extremely helpful, but it highlights the fact my Seat pollen filter frame has a different design to that shown, the R/H lower corner is fully encased and the wipers must be vertical to remove it and impossible to refit unless the wiper linkage is loosened too. I agree the pixs are excellent.

Diet

The models must differ cos I tried all wiper angles to remove the Pollen Filter, I did get it out, albeit with a gouged housing, with vertical wipers, as advised, but the linkage on mine must be 'eased' out of the way to replace, impossible otherwise. 2000 SE Alhambra 1'9 TDi Auto Grey no Sat Nav no Child Seats No Mud Flaps No Sun Roof No TVs Bog Std.

I'll answer my own question, headplate C. This is the only variation to mine that I can see. I thought C was the flimsy electrics carrier. Incidently, although my Halfords Brink tow bar was easyish to fit. I'd not bother again, for the few pence saved. I'd let the pro's do it next time, I saved a pittance after forking out for electrics and hadn't factored in the 13 pins problem.

The Bosal diagram you supplied seems 98 % identical to my swanneck Brink, I know the chassis fittings must be identical BUT the Bosal doesn't appear to have a facility for a 'flange' ball fitting, though clearly there is one in the diagram, just what does it and the electrics plate bolt to? The M12 x 70 bolts accept a swan neck fitting, as does mine. The diagram seems flawed. My Brink electrics are designed for the Euro 13 pin plug, a single welded plate on the swaneck, I misguidely bought it from Halfords, it involved cutting a chunk (easy) out of the bumper. Subsequently the Trailer Hire people up the road said I'd bought a 'bad' design and the bumper cutting could've been avoided. Dunno which brand.

I struggled with this last week and was correctly and helpfully advised on the 27th January by IANOCK see history, all the wiper motor mechanismn which hinders access and fixed by three bolts must be 'hinged' forward slightly to give sufficient clearance in removing the filter and housing. Two bolts out of the 3 that retain the wiper linkage must be removed, centre & n/s This means removing the obvious plastic full width bulkhead it has 3 X 10 mm retaining bolts, n/s, centre & o/s Remove n/s wiper arm Lift the n/s plastic trim immediately beneath it, to remove one bolt retaining the n/s wiper linkage Remove an identical centre bolt nr the motor itself The only other remaining bolt on the o/s beneath the n/s wiper blade can just be slackened a tad. This gives enough play to do the biz, exiting and replacing the filter via drivers side

Thanks, I'll try again tomorrow, couldn't face going on further today, it was raising my blood pressure, not at all quite the ultra simple job I was led to think it was. Unless I'm still missing a trick. A very stupid design, no wonder the Dealer didn't do it.

I've a pre facelift SE Alhambra and I've attempted to replace the pollen filter. I removed it with great difficulty by first withdrawing the bulkhead cover and setting the wipers vertically. It was a terrible struggle to get out, gouging the plastic cover. It came out beneath the o/s. I now find it virtually impossible to re-install. I've damaged the new replacement. It appears the wiper motor needs to be removed! Can anyone enlighten on the technique, cos I've given up the struggle for today and I can't find any ref in TIS. Thankyou

Glancing thru the specs for the current Alhambra, one of the additions now std is the 'cooled glove box' This strikes me as very useful. I frequently drive to hot Spain and am tempted by this toy. Anyone got the latest model and care to advise on how efficient the cold glove box is? std glove box size? I've got a quiet 12v fridge (too big really) and drains the battery and it always seem to have a car load of junk on top of it. The smaller 12v box has a noisy fan and is awkward to open. I'm certaintly not gonna lose a seat position for the expensive std accessory fridge. I seem to recall someone with a Renault or Citroen praising their cold glove box. Are they any good?

Agreed, the survey is flawed, so definately is the viewpoint that as a Seat owner I have low expectations, who's somewhat delighted

Did the ICE man overcome the aerial amp problem too? Maybe not, if he's unfamiliar with Galaxy ICE. Unusually the Ford/Seat/Visteon OE head unit sends 12v via the aerial lead, no other aftermarket H/U does this. Historically there have been some posts complaining of poor reception on FM after 'upgrading' Blaming the inadequate window aerial and even fitting a conventional one. Others haven't seemed to notice any significant drop off in reception. Some folks powered the aerial amp with a separate 12v lead thus solving the issue. If'n it don't work too good that'll be your fix.