sparky Paul

Does this mean I insert the key, turn it three times but the total time of this has to be between 0.5 and five seconds? It means make sure you hold the key on the 'unlock' position for more than half a second each time, do this three times within the five seconds. Just use a steady rhythm - unlock, rest, unlock, rest... etc., etc..

Have tried the remote coding procedure from the FAQs? http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/1485-coding-a-sharan-remote-key-fob/?p=9914

Movement in any steering or suspension joint can cause wobbles or vibration at speed. As for the front wishbones, It's the rear vertical bush that usually goes, and a visual check with the wheel jacked off the ground should reveal any defects instantly - splits, or the rubber becomes detached from the outer shell. The front bushes rarely fail, but you can check for movement by inserting the end of a pry bar between the casting and the subframe, also a visual check where the bush protrudes from the wishbone casting. Have you checked the tracking after replacing the track rod bits? Toe out can cause the car to wander and follow road undulations.

I thought everyone had given up trying to make sense of the forum. It's still bust I see :( I think we get more mk.3 queries in here than mk.1 now. :rolleyes:

It's gone very quiet on here, has everyone got in the lifeboat and left me behind?

I'm pretty sure you need the stock Ford radio to make this work, Ford 6006 I think. There's an old thread here that you might find some information from http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/22126-dvd-multimedia-problems It might also be worth doing a forum search for "DVD" or "multimedia". I'm not sure if there is anyone still one here with the factory fitted DVD, it's been a while since I saw it discussed. You never know though.

Nothing wrong with the old Picasso, super comfy and they are cheap!

It depends which brake discs are on the front Brian. If your mk2 has 300mm brake discs on the front, the old mk1 16" alloys foul the brake calipers. You have to use mk2 alloys. If your mk2 has the old brake setup with 288mm brake discs, and quite a few did, then AFAIK you are OK to use the old alloys. Yes, I think it's going to have to go for spares, when I can get round to it. I can't bring myself to put the effort in to sort it out, it's all looking a bit rough under there. I've already had to tidy up the body and weld the front cross members, I can foresee an ongoing battle.

I've got two brand new tyres here :rolleyes: You can get the cables in the UK for a few pounds... but even at a tenner, it's worth every single penny.

"I love it when a plan comes together" B) Good luck with the MOT

Yep, same problem here.

Just re-reading this, my Galaxy is the 2.3. Any suggestions on what software to use if VCDS Lite wont work. VCDS with a VAG-COM interface will definitely connect to all the VW systems on your 2.3 - ABS, SRS & Airbag, auto gearboxes, climate control, etc., but NOT the Ford engine or Ford PATS. A cheap generic ELM327 based interface will do all the engine related stuff, such as EML codes & live data. Make sure it is capable of J1850-PWM protocol, some of the cheap Chinese mini bluetooth interfaces are not. I use Scantool software with the ELM327. The combination of VAG-COM & ELM327 interfaces does most stuff. Access to PATS anti theft/locking system used to mean an expensive trip to the dealer, but clones of the Ford IDS diagnostic system are now available, if you need it. Hope that makes it a bit clearer.

Almost certainly the squib at fault. VCDS will access all systems on the car except 2.0/2.3 petrol engines and PATS anti theft/locking systems, and the VAG-COM interfaces are so cheap, it's daft not having one. As Brian says, don't go poking about the airbag/SRS systems without first disconnecting the battery. If you remove the airbag, store it in a safe place outside the car, face up.

The Mk.1/2 Galaxy did not have isofix tether points, and Ford don't do a retrofit kit. No expert on this, and someone else might have further info... but I understand the VW Sharan and Seat Alhambra did have the isofix points, and these seat are interchangeable with the Galaxy, so that's one option. I haven't seen an aftermarket isofix kit for the Galaxy. I know Britax did a fitting kit for their seats, but I don't think they were isofix.

Power steering is a traditional hydraulic assisted rack, and the major components are generally reliable on the Galaxy. Usual faults are down to leaks from pipework or faulty seals, although fluid leaks which have gone unrepaired can damage the pump. Any fluid leak from the rack itself has the potential for big bills, it's a fairly time consuming job to replace the rack. You really need to know what the exact symptoms are before you can guess what the likely cause is. On the face of it, a replacement pipe or a repair isn't going to cost a fortune, so you have to ask why they haven't fixed it before sale? Personally, it wouldn't put me off if the rest of the car was good. I would use it as a stick to beat the price down and repair it myself.

As gregers says, try to buy one with all the bits you want. Retrofitting most things can be done, but it's not always easy, and aftermarket solutions may be the only answer in some cases. Consequently, it can get expensive if you are paying someone else. The mechanical parts are pretty sturdy, so long as you avoid the automatics. Air conditioning is extremely fragile, and is an on-going and expensive battle to keep it working, so check that it at least works when you buy the car. Don't be fobbed off by the "it only needs re-gassing" ploy - if it doesn't work, it will probably need money throwing at it. Watch out for crushed sills (particularly around the front jacking points) and corrosion - that's the biggest enemy on these cars at the age they are now. A 2002 car is now 15 years old, and they were never particularly well protected from corrosion in the first place. Look closely at the rear wheelarches, the very bottom of the front wings where they meet the sills, and the sills themselves. If you can get underneath, check the inner sills and front cross members between the sills & the main chassis rails. Those are the places that tend to go first. Check old MOTs online, and walk away from anything that's already been welded, unless it's very cheap indeed. All that said, there are some later Galaxys about that have been looked after, and are very nice condition - but they command silly prices. There are far more rough ones about, so take care if you want something that will last a few years. Expect mid-40s mpg, 50mpg on a run. There was a standing joke on here that certain individuals only went to the petrol station to put some diesel back in the pump! It may of course have been part fuelled by jealousy from those of us running petrol Galaxys... :lol: Don't overlook a LPG converted petrol if you come across one, the 2.3 petrol drives well and should give comparable running costs to the diesel, although road tax on later cars is higher. It might also be worth keeping an eye on what the Chancellor says about diesel duty in the Budget on Wednesday.

That's the one. 10 psi is about right, but difficult bleeders (cars, I mean) sometimes needed a little more to push stubborn bubbles out. Also, if you are bleeding all four corners, you learn to leave a bit more air in the tyre, so as to not run out... and make sure you have no leaks, or else... All a bit faffy for me.

You shouldn't need a pressure bleeder, but you do need two people to do it manually. If it's a Gunsons Eezibleed you've bought, take care when pressurising the reservoir - it's easy to blow all the fluid through from the reserve bottle, and with it a load of air bubbles. I hated mine, a cheap vacuum bleeder is infinitely better tool.

You've done well to the keep the aircon going, I gave up on mine years ago after several expensive (parts) repairs. Didn't seem worth the expense or effort for the sake of the 3/4 days a year we actually used it. I wish I had bought a diesel 14 years ago, or gassed this one. :unsure:

I know it might sound like we're trying to teach granny to suck eggs, but we have to rule out the possibility that you are doing something wrong. The reason I ask is that if you have a full reservoir and a pipe or joint split somewhere, you should be leaking brake fluid all the time. I'm assuming you are doing it manually, and not using a vacuum or pressure bleeder. Do you have a clear pipe on the nipple into a container with some fluid in? Are you are closing the bleed nipple between depressing and releasing the clutch pedal? You may also have to assist the return of the pedal once the nipple is closed.

As above, you need to give more info. Vehicle year, auto/manual, petrol/diesel, etc.? If it's a 2007-on Ford Galaxy, you are asking in the wrong section - visitors to the mk.3 section know a bit more about the later Ford model and might be able to help you.

Very good to hear from you again seatkid, not many of us left with old mk.1s. In fact, you don't see so many mk.1s about these days - it would be a shame for a decent one to end up in the fragger. That's exactly how we regard ours... well, apart from the 'economical' bit. The VED is a bit steep, but insurance for me this year was about £148, and that was with business use, in case I needed it. It has, without doubt, been the most useful and reliable vehicle have ever owned... If it wasn't, I don't think we would have kept it for 14 years. Sadly, a cracked screen and rotten nearside outer sill might be the end of mine after 18 years and 160,000 miles. In all those years, I managed to avoid the dreaded crushed sills, but sadly they are still succumbing to the rot.

There's usually a fix around any server access required, or they don't bother cloning the interface. You can find the clone FoCOM interface for less than 20 quid.

I've had these clone interfaces for other stuff, and they usually work 100%. If I had seen one cheap for the Galaxy, I would have bought one myself.

Have you got plenty of fluid in the reservoir? The clutch circuit will draw air first.