Sher

Can't understand why it didn't attach from a tablet. Still not apparent? Damn its upside down now!

My typing is. It,s 93. It's in the attachment

In the centre of the driver display binnacle is the red LED information section selectable by the steering wheel buttons. The top line shows the time in Large characters. On start up the time displayed as normal in Large characters. After driving a short distance 0.5 miles approx the time displayed with smaller characters. A number directly underneath came up 97.3. This along with the time was displayed within all the space previously taken up by the time alone. Handbook that came with the car was no help. I've searched for fault codes and even pictures of the display. Nothing! Has anyone any ideas?

I've wondered about doing this, multiple draining and refills, to change/dilute the filled for life (?) auto 6-speed on my 2008 2.0 TDI . It's now at around 75K. My Ford mechanic friend (surname Ford) confirmed the service recommendation for oil changes on the later Powershift boxes introduced later than this model. Having thought further whilst considering the fitment of an oil temperatures sensor, I notice we have a rather substantial gearbox oil cooler. I'm considering fitting the sensor soon at which time it may well be possible to drain and fill the correct oil or at least some of it via the pipes. It should also be possible to change the oil within the cooler as well. Far too busy to even attempt this at the moment though. Pity that the Torque tablet utility doesn't actually detect the gearbox oil temperature, though it claims it does. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torquefree

Seems it is available now:- https://haynes.co.uk/catalog/manuals-online/car-repair-manuals-online/ford/ford-s-max-and-galaxy-diesel-06-15-haynes and cheaper http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-S-Max-Galaxy-1-6-1-8-2-0-2-2-Diesel-2006-2015-Haynes-Workshop-Manual-Book-/162075997018?hash=item25bc7b735a:g:9TkAAOSwH71XPZGD

" Power assistance appearing to fail when turning right at times, particular problems just after starting (reverse slowly out of drive OK, then when straightening up going forwards feels like no power steering)" Mine first started on full left lock and would seem to correct itself. (2008 Ghia 2.0TDI Auto) It was as though the lips on a seal had flipped. The fluid was however clean. I suspected the steering rack as a known problem on the early Mark III. It happened 5 or 6 times before I was back in the UK. In a rush in order to visit Belgium I was forced to visit the main agent. New Rack only NO EXCHANGE AVAILABLE at about

My understanding of auto operation is that the gearbox goes into "lockup mode" at around or above 1500rpm. At which time there is a fixed correlation between road speed and rpm, different for each gear which can be selected to some extent by slipping into "S" mode". In my experience in "S" mode the box drops out of lockup and will switch down one gear as speed drops to some extent (approaching and going around roundabouts, provided I do not stop). On increasing acceleration the speed picks up and it recovers the higher gear. However, if I stop it drops back into 1st gear and sticks there on acceleration unless I select a higher one by paddle movement or move to normal drive. My suspicion is that your box is not leaving lockup mode anytime on slowing down. Check to see if it does switch to a lower gear in "S" mode at under 1500 rpm or so. on the overun? Does it hold rpm consistent with road speed instead below those revs? My auto experience is on a 2.7 litre Honda auto box and my present 2.0TDCI MK III Aisin 6 speed box. I have assumed the box on the 1.8 is the same with "S" mode.

The question is here what is the source of the crud in the filter. I seem to remember reading somewhere about faulty seals in the rack? My automatic 08 2.0 gets heavy at low speed. The Battery voltage on mine seems low and even when charged does not reach over 13.2V (Failing cell? 5 years old almost). When I charged the battery for a few hours the problem went away for a time. But no starting problems! Will investigate more when I return from sunny Spain.

I had a similar problem when I purchased my 08 MK III. Check the multiplug connector behind the rear bumper. In my case this had been tampered with at some stage as it was cracked. I cleaned it, sprayed with WD 40, wiped dry on the outside. Wrapped it in the only tape I had available at that time Aluminium sticky foil acouple of times and it has worked ever since. I know I should have used self amalgamating rubber tape but it was not to hand at that time. If it works when dry then moisture is your problem. Just make sure that there is little chance of further moisture entry. P.S. I had problems in the past with Dirty & wet sensors, in which case a quick wipe tends to restore function ( on a MK II)

@gregers It's me that's cackhanded in cutting the hole in the bumper protection plate using hand held rotary grinder. Anyway I have a good excuse!

Full external Towing ball, with Stainless steel Bumper protector plate and full electrics. All from Towsure. About £160 for parts. Car came with a reversing camera fitted in the Bumper. now attached to the Stainless plate. Unfortunately didn' make a neat job of cutting the hole. Hence the aluminium tape to cover the discolouration as I ground the hole out. Protector plate needed bending inwards slightly. Anyway it all works. Two felt pads on the centre two sensors , treated with Silicone waterproofing spray.

What chrispb123456 says is spot on. Don't labour the engine in top gear.(or any gear). Puts too much stress on the DMF at lower revs. The most efficient part of the engine cycle is at peak torque, somewhere around 1900rpm ? That of course needs to be balanced with increased drag at higher speeds. All the economy of the VW/Audi 1.9 TDi motor can be knocked for six by the cost of maintaining and repairing it, as I found out over the 10 years I had my Galaxy II.

@Gregers I would have but I didn't have any to hand. It's in my Caravan in Spain. The Al tape is brill as it even seals leaking water pipes if the pressure is not too high and also protects against UV damage. Not likely underneath in this case. Since Spraying and sealing the Parking Sensors have mended there ways, behaving as they are supposed to. Now to upset them again with a fixed towbar, stainless steel backplate/bumper protector and twin electrics from Towsure. Well it worked on my Galaxy II and I have already discovered how to reduce the sensitivity of the two inner sensors to zero, whilst leaving the outer 2 functioning. I'm sure I can reduce the reflectivity of the towing fitments or sensor sensitivity enough, even if it does not function right away.

Further investigation today , prior to fitting my towbar, showed an incompletely wrapped against the elements multiblock connector which is almost certainly collecting water as the open end faced upwards towards the weep holes. Sprayed with WD 40 and left to dry. Will then wrap in plastic tape followed by Aluminium Tape ( two layers at least ) to protect against water ingress.

I purchased a 2008 Auto Ghia 2.0 TDCI about a month ago. Came with 2 Keys a standard type remote and a flip key remote. I started off using the Flip key. Until after day 3. I was travelling slowly through some light controlled roadworks to Southport, when all of a sudden everything died and car ground to a halt. I turned the key and the car started up. You can imagine my thoughts. Oh dear! Well after thinking about it and on my way returning home to the Pennines above Manchester, I pondered the Flip key with my house keys etc. Keys hanging downwards along with the flip key. I touch it/them with my knee. Same thing happened again. The movement was just enough to power the car down. The flip key is now the spare and stored in the tiny blue bag along side the caravan keys etc, Makes a better fit as well.