nogdog

I had this problem on my mk1. The parts came to less than

I'm not sure if this will help anyone, but I have not seen any mention in other threads so here goes... The new guy next door to me saw me working on my galaxy the other day and asked, "know much about the bloody things then?" I claimed no major knowledge just general spannering and that the Galaxy afforded plenty of practice! Anyhow his complaint on his identical Mk1 1.9TDi was...loss of power. It had been the same for 6 months and nothing had fixed it. I plugged into it and the fault codes read off as a mechanical malfunction of the fuel shutoff valve N109. I cleared the codes and sent him for a spin. When he got back (a much happier man) I re-scanned the car and nothing had returned. The car apparently worked OK after that. That was until the end of Tuesday when it was just the same again. This time I removed the valve and gave it a good clean and a new O-ring. So far it has apparently been behaving itself. With luck it will, my new best friend is starting to make a list of problems. :wacko: It strikes me as odd though that such an error code would cause the car to go into limp home mode without throwing a check engine light. But clearly clearing the error code brought it out of limp home. Well until the valve got stuck again. Anyhow, I just thought I would mention it.

Cheap and easy way retaining the standard shock aborbers....and also the best if you ask me (always been an Eibach fan and home them on my E38 7 series)...go Eibach The UK distributor contact details are here, http://www.eibach.co.uk/ and they will deal with you direct and ship directly to you. Apex and H&R also sell the kit to do the job. Their galaxy application in my parts boox says that they drop 30mm. more than enough. Otherwise.. you are going to be in airbag turf I think.

Well as you will see from the pics the cat on my wifes Mk1 split off at the pipe weld. Replacement was pretty straight forwards: 1) Make sure the exhaust is stone cold. ( a ) so you don't burn your hands and ( B ) so everything is free to move and not expanded. 2) Remove the 3 flange bolts. Mine were 10mm forward of the flange with 13mm nuts. One had to be cut off with the grinder because the head had rusted through. 3) Remove the U-clamp from the rear tail section and joggle out the pipe. Once out fit the new cat into the rear pipe first and then mate up with the flange, not forgettting to put the new gasket and seal into the flange that came with your new cat and copper grease on the new bolts. GSF part number 21515 comes with the flange in the bag with the cat along with new copper nuts and steel bolts for the flange end. Price when I purchased mine today by going in and being cheeky enough to ask for discount.

In which case you're sorted then. I would say go GSF, I'm lucky becuase I have a local one and they alway do me some discount. And it has a 12 month warranty.

No idea about the company but I need to replace the cat on my 1998 Mk1 as the exit pipe has broken off at the weld as it leaves the CAT. Alas there isn't enough surface area to weld it back together. so new cat it is. And at

As has been said above, checking auto trader is a good move. The insurance company is supposed to provide you with a payment that enables you to replace the vehicle with the same model. (Less any excess) auto trader is a good guide as to the market value of the car. However with their offer of

Yep its a laser tool. number 3307 This is the link to the laser webste with it on. The package says it has a 19mm spanner required for the pully nut turny thing (technical that) but it is infact a 17mm. http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?item=674 http://www.lasertools.co.uk/items/medium/3307.jpg

Hi guys, I just had to change the alternator pulley on my Mk1 1.9 TDI for the same bouncing tensioner problem. At first I refused to believe the problem was with the pulley on the alternator as when the belt was removed the pulley was free to turn in both directions and so I went down the route of a new tensioner and tension wheel (bearing was about shot anyhow) These additions had no effect what so ever. I also replaced the bolt/screw that holds the tension wheel as the threads had started to see better days after being taken on and off so often. None of it was a wast of time I suppose but I should have gone for the pulley fist and saved the

OK, time to fess up. I

Well, I know it

Many thanks. Even though there is a Ford logo in the casting, do you think I will be ok ordering the VW stuff?

Well, I sat and played with it and it didn't get any better. the nasty scrape noise sounded like a duff bearing or a broken steel wire (no steel wires so could only be one thing) I decided to take the selector apart. (see pics) Looks like the top bearing under the selecter shaft has rusted through releaseing the balls and buggering the thing totally. Will be off to Fords on Tuesday (no time till then) to plead for a new unit and shaft. Would someone with the part numbers software be able look up what I need to ask for please. It is a 1998 1.9 TDi with 5 speed manual box

Well, today has been a long and skin shredding one, but I have removed the gear selection unit fro the car. Problem is I was expecting to see a sheared bolt (as per advice from Neil and wolfie last night) As you can see from the pics, everything looks as it should. So question is....does anyone know where to go next? If I remove the lower part 4 bolts and dig into the shaft, how many springs or small things that go ping am I going to find? On the whole the box and all the bits look in good condition. I just can't see why this is stuck solid. Well, today has been a long and skin shredding one, but I have removed the gear selection unit fro the car. Problem is I was expecting to see a sheared bolt (as per advise from Neil and wolfie last night) As you can see from the pics, everything looks as it should. So question is....does anyone know where to go next? if I remove the lower part 4 bolts and dig into the shaft, how many springs or small things that go ping am I going to find? On the whole the box and all the bits look in good condition. I just can't see why this is stuck solid.

After a little more digging I just found another user with exactly the same problem. The answer looks like I need to take the box out. The answe rwas on this thread, http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...rt=#entry102711 Can anyone tell me if the box is now diff if this little bolt has sheared or if I can fix it myself with a tap and new bolt?