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Likely I will now put this engine + test trolley to storage for a while and continue working with it later. But at least now I can say for sure that the central junction box is not needed for the engine to run perfectly well. Only boxes that are needed with manual gearbox car are EEC-V and PATS (+transceiver for the key). I still have also the instrument cluster connected, since I need to figure out how vehicle speed sensor and speed pulse leaving from the instrumentation cluster actually works... From the wiring diagram it looks that VSS gives its signal to the instrument cluster and that sends it to ECU with Galaxy, even with most of the other EEC-V equipped cars VSS wires go directly to ECU. Would be nice to know the difference of speed pulse and VSS signals, but at least they have separate wiring. Related to the OBDlink SX cable I purchased, I'm fairly sure it is genuine, not any cheap copy even purchased from eBay. It included also OBDwiz application license key and instructions that were looking perfectly legitimate and worked for the application I downloaded from official obdlink.com website. When purchasing from eBay there are usually multiple options where to purchase, so eBay itself does not mean that the product is pirated or bad quality. Likely I will purchase some OBDlink wireless device later on, but now I'm satisfied with the cable version for the time being.

Oh yes, problem solved. :) Turns out that my ELM327 just did not like talk to ECU of my Galaxy engine anymore, even it did like to talk to it earlier. Also it still likes to talk with my Fiesta EEC-V box, so seems that it is a bit picky... So my problem is now solved after I purchased OBDlink SX cable from Ebay and that works nicely. A bit stupid issue, but also a bit weird at the same time though... But I'm happy that I can now continue with my project(s) and not spend any more time to troubleshoot the OBD connection issue.

If this is correct: http://www.tehnomagazin.com/Auto-radio-car-connector/VW-Car-Radio-Wiring-Connector.htm Then radio connector pin 1 should get +12 when the power is on. Meaning that the purple wire at ECU pin 58 should get the same when following the wiring diagram pages 7, 10 and 12. This could be the issue causing my OBD read problem...

Led lights up for a while when turning the key to running position. In case I remove key from PATS tranceiver and turn on the power, led blinks rapidly. I'm sure I have the led wired correctly now. By the way, does anybody know what is the purple wire? Goes to ECU pin 58, central junction box connector P6 and also to instrument cluster. Also looks to be going to cruise control box, power mirrors, then it changes color to red when it goes to radio connector pin 1. There is one white wire as well connected to this purple, but that I don't know for sure where it goes. But this likely has something to do with the diagnostics... And would be nice to understand what it is.

I found the driver's door led wires from the wiring set: red/white is continuous +12 line, for this I will use the same fuse like for OBD port power. Blue wire goes to PATS pin 7 it seems, and also to central junction box connector P6 pin 23. Relay 27, marked with number 30 seems to operate normally and all of its wires are connected. So far no luck getting ECU OBD diagnostics back operational though...

Here seems to be one copy of that: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1049751/Ford-1995-Galaxy.html You can also download it from there at PDF format.

Yes, I have noted this and currently the cooling system at my engine test trolley emulates Galaxy's cooling system very closely, meaning I'm using the original Galaxy thermostat mounted to the radiator pipe. I will locate the thermostat somewhere else than the end of the head, even it would be possible to locate it there as well, but from maintenance point of view that would be a very inconvenient location. Likely I will create a new thermostat housing that will be bolted in place of the current empty housing at the back of the head which brings the thermostat somewhere nearby the intake manifold, or then using pipes to do this. But I think it would be better fit for Sierra to have the thermostat at the intake manifold side somehow even taking the coolant flow from the back of the head. I will be updating this thread at least as long as I find out how to sort out the electronics. After that maybe I can sometimes post an update here as well, but basically you can follow my progress from Instagram. About getting TIS to run: Most likely I will manage since I'm IT professional as my daily work. ;-) But let's see in which order I will be working on this topic/issue.

Thanks BrianH, I need to take a look of these during the weekend since I'm still at work related travel trip. My intention is to first get the engine running with minimalistic electronics + diagnostic interfaces. And now only this later part, meaning diagnostics is missing since the engine runs nicely. After electronics things sorted out I will start converting it to be used at my 4x4 Sierra, that still have 8v 2.0 liter DOHC engine. This engine has been driven about 260 000km and since there seem to be Galaxys at sale that have over 400 000km driven, it should still have many kilometers to go. But obviously I will do some maintenance as well to it, but I have not decided the extent of that. About the conversion to 4x4 Sierra engine, I will most likely retain the coolant flow like it is now, since RWD configuration has certain issues with the intake manifold durability related to the thermostat housing it has integrated. Basically this also mean that I don't have the need to take the engine head away and replacing the head gasget when maintaining the coolant flow like it is. Things that I really must do is to remove the balancing shaft, change the oil sump and oil pump intake pipe. This conversion process I have studied and likely there will be no bigger surprises to me. But it remains to be seen do I still open the head and replace the gasget, but then if I'm starting this level of maintenance it will probably means that I will also change the piston rings etc. which makes the project more expensive that I try to avoid. But hopefully this description of mechanical changes I have planned does not disturb the electronics discussion ongoing at the moment. ;-)

This is the same diagram like Mk1 Haynes has (but this is with colors): http://docslide.us/download/link/3984-galaxypdf I do have Haynes manual for Mk1 Galaxy. This diagram has only two diodes that it mentions, but at least by looking the connections they are not looking like light emitting diodes to me... Unfortunately Haynes diagram has things missing related to ECU, PATS and central junction box, at least when it is about these late Mk1 models. I tried today to search similar diagram for Mk2 Galaxy, but looks to be very hard thing to find... Maybe I need to get Ford TIS, since it might include more complete wiring diagram.

I have been also thinking to check this led, but first I need to find where it has been connected, since all of the door wires I already have cut away. :-) If you happen to know where this led positive/negative wires are coming I will check this. The wiring diagram I have does not unfortunately tell this. About testing ELM327, for that I do have 2002 model Fiesta with all mighty 1,3 kent engine + EEC-V ECU, so this is also something that I will do.

Thanks sparky Paul! This was actually a really good piece of information, since now I know that I need to be finding Mk2 wiring diagram from somewhere. The Mk1 diagram I currently have definitely has certain things missing based on my investigations so far. My fuse/relay box assembly looks exactly the same like at those pictures.

Thanks for your replies, especially you BrianH! This is something that I need to check since I do have one relay that has it's negative control wire unconnected. I don't just now remember what it was, but I think it was related to air condition since when giving negative control signal it starts the engine cooling fans after a short delay, but it is not the bigger relay that actually controls the fans (and starts them immediately). Finnish hand book said it is a "switch relay" only present with 2.3 litre DOHC engine, but this can be a translation issue also... Here is the "proof" that ELM327 worked with Forscan: https://www.instagram.com/p/BQpkZC0llCK/?taken-by=sipposa Hopefully this is just a relay issue, since I'm thinking that I'm missing some feature from the central junction box that is polled by the ECU during it's initialization that causes it not to respond with OBD/J1850 protocol. But of course it can be an issue that has been now developed with my ELM327, but that would be a little weird. However I'm travelling the next couple of days and likely can continue working with this soonest on Saturday. [EDIT]By the way: What OBD interface tool you would recommend to be used with this Galaxy engine?[/EDIT]

Also faulty MAF sensor will cause such effect. Car will start, but very soon after the start ECU tries to read values from MAF and if that is not possible or gives erratic value the engine will make a hard stop. Idle control valve issue would probably end up with softer stop and the stop could be prevented by a small press of the accelerator pedal.

Thanks sparky Paul, I have checked all of the OBD connector wires and they are going to correct locations + are giving expected voltages: http://docslide.us/download/link/3984-galaxypdf I have used above wiring diagram to verify this. Unfortunately the wiring diagram does not include pretty much anything about immobilizer/PATS wiring, like that pin 7 W-line. Would be nice to find a wiring diagram that shows wires per each connector, like where each wire is going from central junction box connector P6 (and probably P5 also). Does anybody know has Ford TIS these connector specific diagrams? [EDIT]Actually it would be also helpful in case some 2.3 DOHC Mk1 Galaxy owner would test which of the central junction box connectors are needed to be in place as minimum for OBD ECU diagnostic to work... My guess is that P6 is at least needed, but likely also P5, but no others.[/EDIT]

Hi, I purchased and dismantled one Mk1 year 1999 model Ford Galaxy with 2.3 litre DOHC engine. I do have all of the electronics boxes and wiring set (or actually what is still left of the wiring set). Some time ago my setup looked like this: But since then I stripped everything useless away from the wiring set except the instrumentation cluster. Now my issue is that the engine runs nicely and seems to be working perfectly well, but the OBD diagnostic does not work. I have tried with ELM 327 and Forscan, which worked perfectly well before I stripped the wiring set, but now it just says it cannot connect to ECU. I have also tried with VCDS Lite and VAG KKL (blue cable), which is only able to see the instrumentation cluster, but not ECU. I have checked the ECU data connection to OBD socket and that is perfectly like it should be and also giving the expected voltages. However since I do not have the central junction box in place I have PATS connector pin 7 (W-line) without any connection. Like advised here: https://www.vag-info.com/VW%20without%20CAN_Emulator.pdf I have tried to connect it together with K-line, but no luck with this... So it looks that the central junction box connector P6 is at least having something important that is needed for ECU OBD diagnostics to work. But can somebody please tell what wires are as minimum needed for OBD diagnostics for ECU to work? I will dismantle the instrumentation cluster sooner or later and I don't have any need for VAG specific diagnostics, so I only would like to have Ford EEC-5 diagnostics to work. All the help is greatly appreciated! This issue arise because it looked that ELM 327 was working nicely when I time to time tested the setup since all of the lights lit up and engine started, but seems that some cursed VAG component is needed before ECU want to talk about its diagnostics... Second immobilizer (PATS) box of this page is having 8 pin connector like I, but my box has yellow sticker: http://transpondery.com/pinout_guides/vag_immobox_pinout.html But since the engine starts and runs nicely, probably this ECU diagnostic issue is not at least directly caused by PATS box...