Ben g mon

All re gassed, no leaks, compresser runs like a dream If it wasn't for the threads on these type of forums I'd be poor now! Total cost £220.....

Replaced my condenser and drier plus the low pressure pipe for under £170 including the pag 46 oil , tools and new o ring seals (80p each from VW/Audi /seat /skoda TPS. And four hours of my time removing things and making access holes. Dispite using the spring decoupling tool I ended up chopping the low pressure pipe under the fibreglass drivers headlamp area and it pulled off ok with water pump pliers and a little force needed. The drier cap is easy to remove on new ones with internal circlip tool and this was greased up to stop the alloy on alloy corrosion that causes leaks. I found on mine the parts removed where 2002 dated so I have never had a condenser change, these are recommended for change as a service item every 2 years or when performance is poor Condenser with drier; car parts for less Low pressure pipe; new from Poland via eBay , good quality Pag 46 oil; eBay, motor factors are 3x price I found O rings; vag group TPS Air con Spring clip remover tool; sealey tools Internal circlip tool; halfords Massive thanks for all the posts showing me how to do this, I've saved a fortune Crossed fingers after a re Gas all will be well

I used a mobile guy last week, hooked up nitrogen to the a/c system told me it had a leak but could get compressor to run however unable to tell on efficiency due to leak. Cost; £20 Just as a guide what to expect

If they both are disconnected it may..... They may be rusted inside also

If they both are disconnected it may..... They may be rusted inside also

Run flat tyres weigh a ton and is the motoring equiverlent to butting concrete boots on a 100m runner/ sprinter and expecting it it to win.... Good call pulling them off...

Have you checked they are plugged in at the back? does the front one illuminate when headlights or sidelights are on? Plugs aren't great and do wiggle off....

Pour boiling water over the brake nipple area and undo with a hexagon not serrated socket and ratchet

Whoops I ment terminal 30 and auto HVAC codes have gone.......,

Bit of an update.... Changed the battery for the larger 019 as mine looked quite a bit smaller and terminal 13 fault code and the auto HVAC codes have vanished even after 3 scans a short drive and a re scan! Only fault code is 01414 aux heater open circuit which I'm guessing is just the underfloor heater glow plug fault? I'll save that for the run up winter if so..... Just air con to play with now.... Can't see anything obvious yet....... Thanks guys for your help

Ok, I'll get the battery changed (be good to have a spare, using the old one as a slave) and clean up and grease up the terminals and work from there. Anything special about these batteries? I think it's just a standard 096? I had a grand voyager with endless battery issues so was glad to be past that when it was served on.......

Hi, Yes terminal 30 error returned, I'll check the battery all the same, have not had any starting problems or anything either. aux heater also flagged up the same fault 5 times in one scan! (Same as last time) I'm more wanting A/C working as its like an oven inside, coldest setting smells like gym kit with A/C off. Is there any setting in vag com to see if air con fires up? Can't see an option for it.

Bit of an update; Cleared codes mentioned in above posts, all returned after 20 min drive. All related fuses checked and ok Looked into HVAC fault codes and seems to be inside dashboard area. The blowers ,recirculated air and air director (dash, windscreen, floor) operate as needed as does the air con when turned to cold and put on full power. The air con does light up i don't hear it power up and have been told it's got a leak in the system but I can't see where! No fault codes are showing for the air con is anyway of testing things there? Have extensively read up on air con faults here and can see no broken pipes etc as yet.... Mk2 TDI 1,9 set up if it makes a difference Cheers for who has replied.....

Had the same issue, removed door loom from car soldered up the broken wires on the kitchen table as access was poor. Then refitted and the red led lamp worked. The drivers door wouldn't lock but everything else did, so I replaced the door lock mechanism (does everything and has the interior handle attached also) Re configured the key as per handbook, good and has been for months now

Note, back parking sensors should chime from the rear when reverse is engaged (found behind left hand slatted grill, mine was unplugged) Front parking sensors chime when starting up and pitch is totally different. ECU for parking sensors is under the passenger seat, if it's wet the rear washer pipe has leaked as its joined inside the car at the top left area of footwell under carpet. (easy fix listed on here) Vag comets is s fiddle to use for this once the fault is cleared