mikej

After changing cars i have the following few bits left for sale if anyone is interested: 1, Haynes manual for galaxy: £10 delivered. 2, K&N air filter for Galaxy 2.3 £15 posted 3, Speedo clocks for 2.3 petrol £20 posted 4, Alloys 6 off, some with usable tyres and a steel spare £40 collected 5, A Parrot Hands Free MKi 9200, currently cost £150 new looking for £60 posted 6. Roof bars for galaxy £25 7. Climate control unit for Galaxy £20 posted Any interest send me a message Cheers all Mike..

Unsure which model you have but for what it's worth, in my own experience (11 years ownership and 200K plus) if your steering feels a little vague, wondering etc i have always found this to be worn track rod ends, provided your tyres are good of course, changed half dozen over the years. As far as knocking goes couldn't really say unless i drove it, mine went through loads of drop links in the early days, various cheaper makes until one of my mechanic friends told me to bite the bullet and pay Ford prices for the originals and i wouldn't have to keep replacing them, never a truer word said, been on for five years with not a single issue. The way i used to diagnose the links was to drive very slowly over a rough bit of road, if a continual knocking could be heard at slow speed it was always drop links for me. The official name i believe for the gearbox mount thingy lol mentioned above is the roll restricter, changed one of those too, if you accelerate sharply in first or second then quickly remove your foot from gas you would feel the engine move, you can't mistake it, you would feel it in the clutch peddle too etc, put handbrake on put in first a dip the clutch you'll feel it move. It's normally the rubber worn but in some cases it's been known to snap, you would notice i assure you. Best of luck..

Ok guys if you ever suffer from this issue there is a 90% chance your brushes are worn, there is no need at all to remove alternator as all can be sorted with it in situ. Simply remove regulator from alternator as this incorporates the brushes. Firstly remove black cap from alternator and you should find regulator within held in place by two bolts, remove it and replace brushes in regulator, very easy to do with a soldering iron and brushes can be had for peanuts on Ebay, reinstall regulator, refit cap and lead and job sorted. From memory all you need is a deep 7mm socket for cap and reg, possible 14mm for lead? and small 1/4" ratchet etc, soldering iron etc. Once you remove your regulator have a look at the slip ring, if one or both of the rings is NOT shiny copper then the brushes are failing to make contact due to wear. I would advise to clean up the slip ring prior to fitting new brushes, use of some fine abrasive paper etc. Hope this helps some of you... ***DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY FIRST GENTS***

Mr panther, pm me your mobile number and i'll give you a call mate, trust me i'll save you a whole load of pain lol, don't try taking it out it's not necessary. Regards Mike.

Apologies if this is of no use to you but i have owned my current 2001 2.3 for the last 10 years and yes the fans started staying on last year as you described, drove me stupid for months trying to find the reason and i couldn't however it eventually cured it'self so since so left well alone??? (never done that before either) anyhow never heard about the air temp sensor but if it's the same one used for the air con which i would imagine it is? it's located in the front bumper. lay on you back with your head dead centre of the front bumper the sensor is clipped into rear of bumper within arms length on you left, it's only a small job that clips in if i remember right. Best of luck

How much for the old bus if i come and collect it ? cheers Mike..

Firstly your belt shouldn't be hanging at all. Does your aircon work as it could be your compressor has seized, has the belt been fitted incorrectly, wrong path etc? highly unlikely to be the new tensioner (if it was indeed new) could be the alternator pulley if you have the Ina pulley fitted, this pulley will only turn one way. The chirping you often hear on the galaxies is normally due to the tensioner being u/s and a new one will almost always cure this. I think you need to take the belt off and have another look mike.

What Lpg kit is fitted, make? cheers Jeez fall for it every time just noticed the date :rolleyes:

Run my 2001 mk2 2.3 petrol on LPG for approx 6 years now, like you using nothing but NGK's evx and eix iridiums. The LPG1's in my opinion are worth the extra money and proved to be the best option so far, they are expensive but I found they provide a better spark and more even running at low revs, through gear changes etc i'm sure you know what I mean, I won't be using any other from now on, currently done approx. 60k on gas . On a final note every single time I have any lumpy or uneven running issues the problem is due to ignition leads, I average a set a year as the LPG system just eats them ( I now keep a spare set to save me wasting time looking for other causesas it always turns out to be leads) and don't bother the expensive stuff like Magnicors etc total waste of money had two sets and no difference to standard jobs. If required a can dig out the supplier on Ebay who provided my last oem set very cheap? best of luck mike.

The pump is situated under the near side wing, accessible via the nearside indicator/headlight i think, it's been that bloody long since i had the thing out :)

I can't thank you enough bud for the diagrams, i have actually got a TIS disk somewhere if i could find it lol. Yeh K45 you mention is the relay 419 i mention in my original post, this is the one that's £90 from Frauds. I have already replaced it though as this was my first port of call and i didn't pay that price either, robbing gits!

Yes cheers Silver beast :) my problem at the moment is Ford are not making it any easier when the relay numbers in the fuse box differ from those on the diagrams, the FAQ link looks identical to mine as far as the relays shown in photo but from a diagram point of view i would be looking for K151 and K45 which i don't have, the ones i listed previously are all the relays in the box. All i need now is to know what each one does :D Mike.

Silverbeast thanks for this, the first thing i notice though is the relay numbers don't match any of mine i would like to know where the hell is K151 as i feel this may be the issue also don't have a k45 either , apparently there are many versions of fuse box fitted to mine as of 05/2001 . I have relays 100 x 2,167,185,411,143 and relay 30 if anyone can shed some light on these then please do. Will have a look into the diagram, thanks again top man :)

Still desperately looking for the correct diagram if anyone can help, Both fans are off now when car is started (climate is switched off) and only come on together once the engine reaches a good temp which my understanding is this is normal if i watch the temp reading on laptop using live data the temp does go down again once the fans kick in, but even though the temp drops way below that of when the fans switched on they refuse to go off, even when i switch the car off and walk away they will run untill the battery is flat so i have to keep pulling the thermal switch lead off to stop them? I have replaced the control relay and the thermal switch (even though the old one tested fine) but my suspicion is there is another relay that's stuck. There is a diagram in the Haynes manual showing two relays 136&137 however i don't have them and i'm stuck without a drawing?

Ok peeps can anyone provide an electrical diagram for the fans and relay, changed thermal switch and relay and problem still persists and can't find my tis disk so if anyone can help and put up a drawing for the cooling system on the mk2 2001 2.3 petrol i will forever be in your debt? thanks Mike...... :blush: