sepulchrave

It's rubbish and a complete waste of

Look, all these parts are cheap compared to the fuel you're burning, replace the lot,

HT leads are the number one culprits of this kind of problem followed by the coil pack and the spark plugs themselves, ideally you should replace the lot, Iridium plugs are excellent and really do last much longer than the standard. If your fuel consumption is truly abysmal (i.e. 25 mpg is impossible to achieve) then look to replace the lambda probe, the MAF element and the blue temperature sensor on the thermostat housing.

Let the trolling commence! :huh:

Errr, what year is your car please, is it a 95-00 MkI or a 00-05 MkII and is it auto or manual? I thought the fan relays were simply for switching. maybe that your thermoswitch is a two stage switch and will switch fan one first and then fan two as well. I know that there are three temperature sensors on the thermostat housing on 95-00 cars, one for the temperature gauge (2-wire, possibly yellow), the blue one for the ECU and one for the aircon fan control I mentioned earlier (brown maybe?). Why are you asking for help if you have all the answers dude? I'm trying to help, you're just not listening and arguing with just about everything I try and tell you. I give up. Listen to the diesel catastrophists, change the engine, burn the bloody thing in the street outside your house if you like, I'm past caring. :25:

Thermoswitch is on the N/S rear of the radiator it will have been screwed into the new radiator which you say was fitted recently. Yes, the engine fans have only one speed and I believe only one will come on unless the aircon is on as well but I may be mistaken. You can simply check the operation of the fan(s) by connecting the two leads which run to the thermoswitch together. If the aircon is set to chill the air then both radiator fans should run constantly irrespective of engine temperature.

:D

Excellent result. Turned out to be a bargain after all then. :D

No. You can't tell by looking. Just replace it.

Good job, it's all about compromise, but your adding up sucks, I make that

Gregers,

Sorry but all the contaminated hoses will need replacing because they'll all burst. Oil fouled hoses feel soft and stretchy which is why they split, if all yours are damaged it will be cheaper for you to fit a set of performance silicon hoses than buy all new ones at dealer prices. As I previously stated the fans are working fine, they're either on or they're off. The fans will not cut in until the gauge is at about 3/4 deflection or touching the redline, if yours are coming on late then the thermoswitch may need replacing or the connections cleaning. You may not agree but I'm telling you there is nothing else wrong with your car, I know I've got one too, so please calm down. George, you cannot over advance the ignition due to the two knock sensors fitted to the VR lump, most remaps simply reprogram the fuelling away from lean burn/stoich where the map has been strangled for emissions/economy, factory ECU settings already run as much advance as possible for these very reasons. This is why the VR has a higher torque rating when running 99 octane fuel, the ECU is able to run more advance before the knock sensors say stop. BTW, OP mentions engine type here: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=19842 :D

Ok, time out, lets slow down and gather our senses :D First point, chipping does NOT affect a petrol engine in the same way as a diesel mr krashitt, FYI chipped N/A petrol engines actually run cooler due to running a richer mixture. Secondly, OP how many hoses have you blown? Hoses can be severely weakened by coming into contact with oil and other solvents, hoses are often badly damaged when the oil/water intercooler fails, could this have happened in your cars past? I've stated before that VR6 cylinder heads are extremely difficult to crack or warp, that doesn't rule it out but you'd really need to cook it up badly for this to be a possiblity, a blown head gasket or cracked head leading to cylinder pressure loss into the water jacket would definitely cause a noticeable misfire, particularly on tickover and as SK says the tank safety cap would definitely blow boiling coolant everywhere. The readings on your temperature gauge sound entirely normal, the responses of your electric cooling fans are completely normal, you have good cabin heat and the car warms up normally and drives normally, you have no unexplained coolant loss or steam from under the bonnet. The VR6 engine DOES run hot, it is designed that way and is completely happy doing so. My diagnosis is that your car is behaving normally other than that you have some rotten/damaged hoses which need replacing. Silly oil burner hysterics, take your pills and have a little lie down chaps. :D

All the engines are mechanically identical apart from the distributor fitted to OBD I engines. The engine mounts will swap over, there are no missing holes etc. The VR6 engine was designed for a transverse installation and AFAIK there are no exceptions. Your engine is a distributorless OBD II engine, for simplicity get another one, I have a complete spare car available with a good engine if you're interested, PM me if so.