west

If its the little pin on the female part of the holder then simply use a fine drill (2mm ish) to drill a hole in bothe the holder and recepticle at the missing pin, Then use a reasonable screw and voila. fixed Worked a treat for me.

WRT the Auxillary drive belt: (99 ford Diesel tdi 90ps cw Air con) After replacing the water pump i aquired a set of new belts from the MF. The auxillary belt is tight and has a slight squeek (bedding in?) The power steering belt did not fit at all. There are no numbers on the original belts, so how do i check i have the right ones? And should new belts "bed in" Advice appreciated

WRT the alternator bracket, i tried to get this bugger off but i could'nt. (i really did) so i ended up removing cam belt etc.

i would suggest the following: 1. remove engine cover 2. make a cup of tea. 3. drink tea whilst studying engine bay for any loose wires, hoses with holes, oil spots, drips leaks, blah blah! 4. Drain fuel filter (easy) 5. Check air filter and box (leakage etc) it could be the throttle............. Else, a trip to the squeelers

I believe all TDIs have them but on older models, i.e. yours!, they had to be reset through diagnostics (as opposed to pressing the trip reset button on the newer models). Is it possible that someone could have disabled the service indicator completely in your ECU? good thinking, maybe. I do all my own servicing. When i first got the damn thing, my misus insisted it was checked by a dealer, such was the state it was in. Big mistake! never again will i go to a main dealer for service. Which is why i am wondering where the service indicator is, i've never seen it.

ouch.

I have a 1999 ford galaxy 1.9 tdi (90ps) LX I have had this for three years, done 20000k miles and have yet to see any service indicator on the trip. Where is it and why is it missing??????? any ideas

FAQ for Wiper : 1999 ford galaxy 1.9 tdi 90ps lx Problem: wipers start on ignition sequence and will not go off for extended periods. High speed still selectable. Reason #1 The design of the wiper control module is at fault. the module is directly attached to the motor unit. Water ingress into the unit and causes the module to fail. solution#1 Disconect battery Gain access to the wiper motor by removing paneling remove linkage nut on top of motor, taking care not to rotate wipers Disconnect wiper cable plug remove 3 small bolts and remove wiper motor Inspect motor unit and remove black plastic module cover Leave unit to dry, carefully using PCB cleaning fluid, clean the detritus of the the PCB, taking particular attention around the Chips. Once clean and dry, replace unit. Upon restarting the ignition sequence, the wipers may well continue to stay on. this should rectify with 5-10mins whilst the gubbins within the module heat up and re-set (this can be done with the wipers lifter of the screen. Hey presto! Solution #2 Remove as above and take part number off the Module for re-order this should be a bit cheaper than purchasing the whole unit. Note You may drill afew small holes in the Module cover prior to re-fitting, to prevent wwater collecting again.

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=578 wrt oil which is "too good" what i really meant is that a *cough* higher spec/cost oil may not be suitable. read the telecon with castrol above. Tim

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm more of the same: and proper comments about viscosity/synthetics etc.

Oil and which to use is a big subject. Yer dead right about the viscosity, but "better" oils do behave differently (which was my point). Oil is not their just to prevent wear, but to do a multitude of jobs (cleaning/cooling)etc I found that link... http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html Fluids also do not behave the same because they have a similar weight. fluids have a lot of different characteristics. I'm no expert, but i do know that the guys who design the engines have a good idea as to what oils to use. Why argue?

Oil is a very technical science, whilst i dont have the link, i have read some very very ggod faq on the web about it. But, from my knowledge of tribology, you can use oil which is: a) too good :lol: not good enough using super thin oils in engines can cause problems (0-40w full synth) as the oil is able to seep past seals/rings etc and also because the oil is to thin to be pumped properly (changing the Visc of fluid in a pump , pisses the pump off) Using thick oils is equally bad. Time, usage, millage etc can all have an effect either good or bad. VW (for a TDI anyhows) spend lots of money and know much much more about these things than most. why you would want to deviate from that and spend

I did change the front pads about 5-6 weeks ago, and have now seen the advise regarding flushing the older fluid out rather than send it back through the ABS modulator. Probably put something back wrong or broke something in the process. ABS works by releasing the brake pressure, not increasing it, so its unlikely to be this.

WRT the aircon pipes, I would almost guarantee that they were damaged during the cam belt change, you should probably mention this next time. Thanks for the tips on the wiper motor, i'll try that. Tim

why use OEM parts and non-dealer labour? I'd go to a local garage and have a better job done with up to spec parts for a cheaper price. change the disks=change the pads. (you can do this yourself it really is very very easy.) you should change bits if and when they need them. modern oil filters will last 30000+, Modern oil can last just as long if doing moterway driving fuel filters as per schedule. you could: change oil, keep the oil fliter change fuel filter (massive performance difference if overdue) change air filter (if required) Change disks change pads. service the bugger yourself and save heaps

silly thing to say really, The right oil depends entirely on the cicumstances and hence no two oils are better or worse (hence choice) I do less than 5000 miles per year so i change the oil only yearly and that's only because over time the oil deteriorates irrespective of use. I also use STD grade Duckhams semi synthetic to the VW spec, it is cheap enough and good enough to do the job. If i was a taxi doing 50000 miles per year i'd use something better. ;)

I had the water pump bearings disintergrate so i set off on replacing the water pump on my galaxy. Key points of intrest 1. Never trust Dealer on item descriptions, i could not convice my local dealer that the pump was a split design and that i only needed the front plate, hence trip to motor factors and a saving of 100 quid 2. Never trust haynes manual. numerous examples here!!! 3. I moved or removed: the air con compressor: the alternator: The power stearing pump: the Air box :most of the air pipes: the wheel, to get to the "accessory engine bracket" as described in haynes, then spent 4 hours trying my damnest to remove it to no avail. i unscrewed more nuts than i should and hit it harder than i should but still the thing wouldn't shift, so in fear of fracturing the alloy , i give up and went plan B: 4: remove engine mounting : remove top cam cover: remove all accessory belts: remove bottom belt drive sprocket: remove bottom cam cover: 5: shit myself at the thought of fiddling with cam belt, but... remove cam belt tension device, mark belt/cogs, remove cam belt remove idler roller 6: Hey presto access to water pump 7: replace pump (stupid rubber gasket took ages to clean off) 8: reFIT existing cam belt (v. nervous) 9: refit all other units checking bolt/nut tightness like a demon during 10: success!! (so far that is unless the new gasket leaks) What a arse of a job and a bloody stupid place to put the pump,ffs. Anyhows, i am know more than willing to change the cam belt at the next interval.. Job 1 completed on a long list of things which break on the piece of $hit which is the ford galxy with alarming ease and regularity, Ps. My windscreen wipers come on and won't turn off when i start the fecker up, do i really need a new motor or will a clean up do??? answers appreciated. Tim Good luck

its all to do with the engine code A3/A4 etc www.tdiclub.com

Worn Key?

If i could, i would hunt down the bast"ard who designed the pollen filter unit and beat him like a dog. What an absolute bugger of a thing to replace. I think my 99tdi must be different to the one used in the haynes manual. Anyway i had to loosen the windscreen wiper motor to get the damn thing in. In all it took me an hour. sorry..that word is an absolute no no even if you did only miss one letter out!!

1. B&Q car park. 2. Do large donuts on full lock both directions. 3. If knocking, then the cv joint is probably worn (rubbers fine or not) 4. Check bearings by raising wheel and rotating wheel perpendicular to axis (vertical and horizontal). 5.Otherwise drive in straight line on smooth road then on bumpy road. If noise on latter, check drop links and bushes.

erm its a galaxy....... Possiby the greatest car design ever, but made from swiss cheese. Things you can be sure off: 1. Whatever you fix, something else will break 2. Nothing will be 100% correct or functional all at the same time. 3. The dealers love em for the repair bills 4. You can fix most things yourself for peanuts 5. Its easy to fix (mostly) 6. You will wonder how you coped with a normal boot 7. Whilst bits break, fall off or just don't work, there will never be enough wrong with it to justify selling it. 8. It will probably outlive you.

People, after servicing my 90ps TDI i can't recommend enough to change the air filter and fuel filters on a service. (and added injector cleaner) Ford was supposed (according to schedule) to do it last year on my only (and ever) dealer service. This year i decided to change all filters/ coolants/fluids etc as a major 90000 service (see previous post) the fuel and air and oil!! filters were date stamped 2003. thanks ford..... After changing, the difference in performance as a large as when i replaced the maf. bloody brilliant and what a difference. service it yerself and F8ck the dealers

looks like buncer has left the arguing to others. Great response from the experts. well done. But, maybe there is no problem! Last night when reversing on the drive, i automatically 'double clutched' to get the reverse gears to engage properly, and the more i think about it, i have done this on all of my cars. By double clutching, i mean just pulling the clutch up a tad to re-spin the (lay shafts)? et all before re-attempting reverse. I do it that often its second nature. Mr gearbox problem, i would not worry about it. live with it and see if it disappears when a new clutch is eventually fitted. double clutching will probably work. (This is exactly what i intend to do about my nackered first gear.)

thats a no then.......................... For the record i live in cork, ireland. Here are the quotes i have so far for a re-con box 1. Local G/Box specialist €900 box €500 clutch €300 labour 20% Vat 2. Ford. New box=€1650 3.UK internet. €450 Re-con box inc Delivery. Thanks for the excellent advice.