west

If its the little pin on the female part of the holder then simply use a fine drill (2mm ish) to drill a hole in bothe the holder and recepticle at the missing pin, Then use a reasonable screw and voila. fixed Worked a treat for me.

WRT the Auxillary drive belt: (99 ford Diesel tdi 90ps cw Air con) After replacing the water pump i aquired a set of new belts from the MF. The auxillary belt is tight and has a slight squeek (bedding in?) The power steering belt did not fit at all. There are no numbers on the original belts, so how do i check i have the right ones? And should new belts "bed in" Advice appreciated

WRT the alternator bracket, i tried to get this bugger off but i could'nt. (i really did) so i ended up removing cam belt etc.

i would suggest the following: 1. remove engine cover 2. make a cup of tea. 3. drink tea whilst studying engine bay for any loose wires, hoses with holes, oil spots, drips leaks, blah blah! 4. Drain fuel filter (easy) 5. Check air filter and box (leakage etc) it could be the throttle............. Else, a trip to the squeelers

I believe all TDIs have them but on older models, i.e. yours!, they had to be reset through diagnostics (as opposed to pressing the trip reset button on the newer models). Is it possible that someone could have disabled the service indicator completely in your ECU? good thinking, maybe. I do all my own servicing. When i first got the damn thing, my misus insisted it was checked by a dealer, such was the state it was in. Big mistake! never again will i go to a main dealer for service. Which is why i am wondering where the service indicator is, i've never seen it.

ouch.

I have a 1999 ford galaxy 1.9 tdi (90ps) LX I have had this for three years, done 20000k miles and have yet to see any service indicator on the trip. Where is it and why is it missing??????? any ideas

FAQ for Wiper : 1999 ford galaxy 1.9 tdi 90ps lx Problem: wipers start on ignition sequence and will not go off for extended periods. High speed still selectable. Reason #1 The design of the wiper control module is at fault. the module is directly attached to the motor unit. Water ingress into the unit and causes the module to fail. solution#1 Disconect battery Gain access to the wiper motor by removing paneling remove linkage nut on top of motor, taking care not to rotate wipers Disconnect wiper cable plug remove 3 small bolts and remove wiper motor Inspect motor unit and remove black plastic module cover Leave unit to dry, carefully using PCB cleaning fluid, clean the detritus of the the PCB, taking particular attention around the Chips. Once clean and dry, replace unit. Upon restarting the ignition sequence, the wipers may well continue to stay on. this should rectify with 5-10mins whilst the gubbins within the module heat up and re-set (this can be done with the wipers lifter of the screen. Hey presto! Solution #2 Remove as above and take part number off the Module for re-order this should be a bit cheaper than purchasing the whole unit. Note You may drill afew small holes in the Module cover prior to re-fitting, to prevent wwater collecting again.

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=578 wrt oil which is "too good" what i really meant is that a *cough* higher spec/cost oil may not be suitable. read the telecon with castrol above. Tim

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm more of the same: and proper comments about viscosity/synthetics etc.

Oil and which to use is a big subject. Yer dead right about the viscosity, but "better" oils do behave differently (which was my point). Oil is not their just to prevent wear, but to do a multitude of jobs (cleaning/cooling)etc I found that link... http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html Fluids also do not behave the same because they have a similar weight. fluids have a lot of different characteristics. I'm no expert, but i do know that the guys who design the engines have a good idea as to what oils to use. Why argue?

Oil is a very technical science, whilst i dont have the link, i have read some very very ggod faq on the web about it. But, from my knowledge of tribology, you can use oil which is: a) too good :lol: not good enough using super thin oils in engines can cause problems (0-40w full synth) as the oil is able to seep past seals/rings etc and also because the oil is to thin to be pumped properly (changing the Visc of fluid in a pump , pisses the pump off) Using thick oils is equally bad. Time, usage, millage etc can all have an effect either good or bad. VW (for a TDI anyhows) spend lots of money and know much much more about these things than most. why you would want to deviate from that and spend

I did change the front pads about 5-6 weeks ago, and have now seen the advise regarding flushing the older fluid out rather than send it back through the ABS modulator. Probably put something back wrong or broke something in the process. ABS works by releasing the brake pressure, not increasing it, so its unlikely to be this.

WRT the aircon pipes, I would almost guarantee that they were damaged during the cam belt change, you should probably mention this next time. Thanks for the tips on the wiper motor, i'll try that. Tim

why use OEM parts and non-dealer labour? I'd go to a local garage and have a better job done with up to spec parts for a cheaper price. change the disks=change the pads. (you can do this yourself it really is very very easy.) you should change bits if and when they need them. modern oil filters will last 30000+, Modern oil can last just as long if doing moterway driving fuel filters as per schedule. you could: change oil, keep the oil fliter change fuel filter (massive performance difference if overdue) change air filter (if required) Change disks change pads. service the bugger yourself and save heaps