GreenSharanTdi

Not much different then, I know you normally lose a few MPG on autos but I'm not that far off the mark then. What year is it?

It’ll be boost pipe with a split in it by the sounds of it, it’ll prob be a bit down on power as well I’d imagine. Should be like a loud hiss that shuts up when you come off the gas

Hi all. Have just had to retire my faithful X reg Sharan with 230k on the clock, she was great reliable bus which I knew would get me anywhere I wished her to but, MOT time was getting closer and the tin worm wasn’t getting any better....RIP!!! I am now the proud owner of a 2009 2.0 TDI Alhambra sport. Lovely car to drive although does have her faults (180k on clock so to be expected). Just wondered on the fuel figures of other people with the later MK2’s as I was getting mid 40’s out of my Sharan but am struggling to hit mid 30’s with the Alhambra. Not sure if it’s DPF or not as not been underneath yet. Just curious on other people’s figures. Thanks

It only rattled under load at low revs and would clear as the revs picked up

How many miles has it done? I’ve just retired my 2000 Sharan with 230k on the clock. That was smokey on start even with new glow plugs. Also rattled under load but think it was because I’d had the solid clutch conversion

Try swapping the front wheels for the back ones, you could have lost a weight off one of your wheels?

Could be a faulty temp sensor confusing the system

Just another possibility, reading through another thread someone had very similar problems and the actual cause was the conections on the board where relay 53 plugs into had opened up too much so the relay wasn't making a proper connection, the relay was still fine. Just an idea, it took them an auto electricion to diagnose this though as they were out of ideas!

If you've been near the battery then first thing i'd check are the fuses under the plastic flap on top of the battery and make sure none are burnt out

I've just had to replace a very weak and tired pump on mine so lift pump failure is possible

Yep 100% they have a lift pump in the tank, you get to it by removing the seats and rear carpet to get to the access panel, it's situated under the middle row of seats behind the driver

First layer of relays, you'll find 1 with 53 on it, that's your fuel pump relay. I only know this as i'm having problems with 53 myself at the moment! Just an idea. Best of luck

Most of the fuses are behind the panel to the right of the steering wheel down below and it just pulls open so no need to dismantle the dash, does sound like a fuse as i'm sure you have 1 fuse for up and 1 for down on front and back

Yes in the process of that now, have eliminated relays 109 and 53 as with replacements fitted still identical symptoms, if you crank it over for ages you can get the filter to fill, it'll run ok on tickover but as soon as you rev for any period of time or try to drive it splutters, cuts out and the filter is near empty again. Suspecting a very weak and tired 204k fuel pump!

When mine started lurching it was the EGR valve, pull the rubber pipe off the silver bit on the top of the engine and take it for drive, if it stops it then your EGR needs taking off and cleaning, or even better cleaning and then blanking off so it can't get blocked again!

Yep, I binned the EGR cooler and blanked the inlets etc off and joined the water pipes together, also cleaned the valve and blanked off the pipes to stop it working, didn't go the whole hog with a replacement pipe as was a bit strapped for cash but it made a difference.

Yes it is frustrating when they let you down, but they're great when they're running! .I got my gaskets etc from darkside developments, all seemed top quality and they were very helpfull. Just make sure you make note of the holes or notches sticking out the front of the old head gasket to ensure you order the same thickness (you probably know that anyway). I didn't bother getting my head skimmed as it was completely flat still and it hasn't been an issue. If you do have to get it skimmed make sure you increase the thickness of gasket to replace what you have skimmed off. As I said, not trying to tell you how to suck eggs as you probably know more than me but it's a lot of work to have to do it again!!!

Mine was an uneven flow out of the small return pipe, it'd kind of spit rather than a constant flow, also slight foaming in the expansion tank. All returned to normal after head gasket done

Hi, if you know a friendly MOT man get him to check for exhaust gasses coming from the expansion tank when running with the cap off, if you get a reading i'd say head gasket. Recently been through the same thing myself, tryed new cap etc but ended up being head gasket failure. Only other possibility is an air lock in the system which is possible if you've recently had coolant change etc. If it is an air lock, a quick drive with a loose fitted cap and the heater on full till it blows hot normally cures it. Best of luck!

Hi all, my green moneypit decided to cut out and not restart BH Monday and i'm a bit confused. Got it recovered then had it towed to the mechanic. No fault codes are coming up, and you can't hear a buzz from the fuel pump when ignition turned on. Glow plug light appears to be working as normal. The fuel filter is running dry and if it's cranked over no fuel is coming through the pipes. If filter is refilled it'll run on tickover for a bit but if you try and drive anywhere it just cuts out and the filter is empty again, mechanic says he can blow thru fuel line no problem. Suspected relay 109 but rang VW and they said my car (2000 Sharan 115 AUY) doesn't have a 109 relay, the gave me part number 4H0906381A as the fuel pump relay which has 645 on it and after googling come up as "additional heater relay". Can anybody shed any light? Does my car have a 109 relay???? I know it could be a knackered fuel pump (it has done 204k) but want to start with the cheapest option first. Thanks

Thanks, sounds like a possible place, definately in that sort of area

Thanks for that

Not got sticking vanes now it's the boost leak that's the problem

Stripped, de-coked and v high temp grease used when put back together

Vanes all cleaned while head off and turbo sounds happier, undertray not on. Sounds higher up than intercooler