jim prong

I've sorted the problem out with the window motor. I did the wiring check and found that someone had been there before me and jumpered out the 12V red and white wire, so top marks to those who suggested this as a starting point. I eventually tracked down the problem to the connection between the motor and the control board. When I removed the control board I could see that there were a couple of plugs on it, which engaged with the two lugs on the motor. One of them must have had a poor connection as it had overheated, and was not completing the circuit to power the motor. I could have bent and tightened the faulty connector but the heat had softened the metal and I felt the fix would not have lasted very long. So I hard wired the motor by soldering a couple of wires from the motor lugs to the contacts from the relay. Re-assembled the whole thing an now I have a drivers window that goes up and down. I cant imagine I'm the only one who has experience this problem. Tried to attach a photo but I'm getting an error message.

I must say what has been suggested, re the wiring, now makes sense. The +ve supply may be missing so I'll check out the wiring in the rubber boot before I go any further. I've had the door panel off a few times, sorting out a sticky door handle catch and fitting a new wireless remote central locking interface,

I don't think its that, as the its the drivers door motor that is not working and the switch is on the drivers door, so I wouldn't think any of the wires in question go into the rubber boot. Thanks anyhow.

I should have posted this twelve hundred miles ago. Changed the turbo, and it fixed the problem. I did a lot of part swapping, map sensor, maf sensor swapped the EGR and Boost solenoids around, but in the end spent

I think my driver door window motor is broken. I can hear the relay click when I operate the switch but lights don't dim and motor does not start. I'm going to strip it and check out connections. If the motor is knackered, is the drivers window motor the same as the one on the passenger door? If so I'll do a swap.

What happens when you use the key to unlock it?

Actually It was a very quick fix on the Astra GSI I had. Took my son and I about a quarter of an hour. Its academic anyhow as the switch on the Astra was accessible on a cross member under the car, but on the Galaxy its under the passenger seat inside the car, so tripping it might be difficult. It could be the battery. I'm not sure if you can lock or unlock the doors with a flat battery, but I might try later if the rain stops.

A couple of things come to mind. I have a 2002 diesel 1.9. I know that if you remove the door handle/lock there is just a slotted hole in the mechanism which you can turn with a screwdriver. When I do this it operates the central locking mechanism. You won't be able to remove the door handle, but if you sacrifice the barrel mechanism by drilling it out, you can then use a screwdriver to turn the mechanism and open the doors. Buy a cheap wireless central locking kit from eBay (less than a tenner) fit that and seal up the lock you've drilled out. If you have any questions about fitting, PM me. Its a twenty minute job. Second method is a bit more technical and not so brutal, although it might involve breaking a lens cover. I've done this on a Vauxhall and there is a similar fix for a Ford / VW, although I've never had to use it. You need to energise the ignition circuit, this was done on the Vauxhall by putting 12v+ on a break light +ve, from an external battery, and connecting the battery negative to earth. You then check that the ignition light is on, and if it is, whack the accident inertia switch ( I don't have my Haines manual with me so I don't know where it is), this will do several things, like cutting off the fuel supply and also popping the central locking. It is important to check that the inertia switch does not also operate the SRS airbags. If you can get under the bonnet you can do a similar job without breaking a break light lens. You will have to reset the switch before you can drive the car. I'll have a look at my Haines book and post an update, and more info later. Good luck. Pete

Re my post above, I've found the guide where I should have looked in the first place, the Ross-Tech site. Having some problems connecting but I've not done any trouble shooting yet.

OK, thanks. Just spoken to my son and he's got one for his Sharan. Is there a tutorial anywhere on how to use the VCDS Lite?

One of the cheap ones off eBay?

I did raise this on another thread, but I hope someone can throw a little light on the matter. I've sorted a problemI had with the VNT, and the actuator now moves freely. It did run fine for a couple of weeks but now it goes into a really low power mode. I mean really low, ten to fifteen mph. If I stop the engine and restart it again, the power usually returns to normal, but if I take my foot off the accelerator, it goes back into low power again. When the power is normal, I can hear the turbo spool up which I don't remember hearing before. I suppose it could be air escaping from the system, but as I say it only effects the power after I've lifted, and then press once more. I get two fault codes, P1556 Charge Pressure Contr. Negative Deviation and P1570 Engine Start Blocked by Immobiliser ( makes no sense because it starts and runs). Could it be the MAP sensor,? Does that control the boost level? My son has a Sharan, so I'm going to do a test with his MAP. All hoses look OK, but I'm not one hundred percent sure. The fact that its intermittent is pointing me towards a sensor of valve solenoid. Any ideas please?

I did want to "Like This", but although yours is the first I've liked, I'm informed I've reached my quota. Anyhow, cut to the chase, thanks for the suggestions, I shall give them a whirl next week sometime. Mine is a MK2 115 PS, 2003 Galaxy with 180K on the clock. I've only had it a few weeks and paid scrap value for it, so I expected to have to spend a bit to get it right.

Same or similar problem here. It's intermittent. It'll start OK, but goes into a really low power mode. It'll only do about ten MPH, and stalled on a hill which, in fact, was only a slight incline. When I restart it it's a lot better, but when I lift the accelerator then press it again, it has little or no power until I stop the engine and re-start it again. I've checked the VNT actuator, which I freed up a couple of weeks ago, and thats very free. It runs the same no matter if the MAS is in or out of circuit. I'm going to put a fault code reader on it, (and clear the MAS fault code) and see what it says, in the mean time, and suggestions would be appreciated.

Since my last post, I've done the "Italian Tuneup", which is something I'm used to as my other car is an Alfa, and its getting better all the time. I'll still give the Innotec treatment a try in a couple of weeks time, and see how it goes.