Yozza

Hi folks, I've been struggling with my wife's galaxy for a number of weeks now. It has been suffering with very little power (boost), I borrowed a reader which read the two following codes 17964 & 16485. I did a lot of reading up (mainly on this forum) about these two codes. And to cut a long story short I have done the following: Replaced the turbo with a refurbed unit from Midland turbo (great service).New N75 solenoidNew MAF sensorNew MAP sensorCheck the pipes to and from the N75 for leaks using a vacuum pump and gaugeI still haven't resolved the problem. When using the Torque Lite app while the engine is running I noticed that the boost reading was a constant 36psi regardless of the engine revs. The other thing I noticed was the revs around 1300rpm were irratic (surging). I am convinced the MAP sensor and/or ECU aren't playing ball. I have check the wiring from the ECU to MAP sensor for continuity - all ok. I would like to know what all four wires are supposed to do, and which wire (colour) is which. When checking with DMM I got two of the wires reading a constant 5v, another wire was constat ~1.7v and no volt on the other wire (probably the ground). I would of expected to see 5v (supply), 0v (ground), 0-5v (signal), not sure about the forth wire, can you any of you good folk shed any info on the wires to the MAP??? Could I have a dodgy ECU, which isn't sending/receiving the correct signal from the MAP and sending the vehicle into limp mode??? I am getting desperate, I even took it to the garage and they didn't know what to do with it as I've done pretty much all they would do, they said it's a job for a specialist auto electrician. Any help greatly appreciated. Yozza

Hi folks, My missus is warm but now stressed as she feels that she now drives a bat mobile due to the impressive smoke screen. The heater starts up and seems to go through a sequence blowing good clear exhaust and then minutes later will be bellowing whit smoke, much to my wife's frustration (to be honest, I'm now going to address this problem because I borrowed the car today and wen to fill up with fuel, the attendant stopped the diesel pump as I was filling due to the white smoke bellowing). Any ideas? I have bought a VCDS cable but having laptop problems. Cheerz

Thanks for the reply, I'll do some investigating. Although the misses says that the bus goes into limp mode if she is travelling up hill, does this shed any more light on the possible root cause? Cheers, Yozza

Thanks for the replies fellas, I stripped the unit down and it fired up when I plugged it back in to the main loom - happy days. I have read on a data sheet that Mk2 pre 2003 will only start if it's sub 5deg, whereas after '03 they changed it so the heater kicked in if it's sub 10deg. Mine is '02, is it just a case of changing the temp sensor by the wiper mechanism to a later one to trigger a start once it's below 10? Thanks, Y

I imagine I'm not the only one with aux heater woes now that the weather is sub 5. Mine doesn't even make an attempt to start, I've only had the vehicle since spring, so this is it's first winter with me. 1. I did take the glow plug out and bench tested it, it goes orange hot (should it glow any brighter/hotter)? 2. How do you diagnose these units if you don't have a control panel? 3. Is it possible to reset the previous fault without a control panel? 4. I may be able to get a control panel, if so, is there anywhere it can be connected for diagnostics? 5. Where is the air temperature sensor that it one of the ebers inputs? Lots of questions, sorry. Cheerz, Yozza

Thanks fellas. Those vanes were as free as can be by the time I'd finished with them, unless the cold weather is having an affect? When I took the head off (engine still in car) I remember thinking the turbo would be a pig to remove while the head is still on the engine. Although surely to service a turbo, you can't be expected to remove the head? Cheerz

The battle bus has recently developed an annoying problem. The turbo will switch off (i.e. no power and won't rev), however, if I switch the engine off and restart it's back to normal and pulls away. In the summer I had to sort the head gasket, so while the head was off I stripped the turbo and gave it a good de-coking (freed up those vanes and ring) so I don't think it could be that. Any ideas? Cheerz

Hello folks, Ever since we got our Mk2 1.9 the rattle from the front end seems to take precedence whenever I'm driving. With your help and direction the potential source has been found - missing front brake pad spring (big wire thing). I checked the garage and they wanted

Top marks fellas, checked the O/S and no spring. Anyone scrapping a mk2? Cheers

Hi, I put a post on here regarding a clunking sound, however, I would like to revise my description as I've now investigated all the obvious sources; Drop linksEngine roll restrictor ARB bushesHowever, I had another look and feel with it on the ramps and noticed some rotation play on the intermediate shaft spline. Could this be the source of my 'rattle' as I go over bumps? I also noticed the calliper assembly would make a noise if I gave it a good thump. Anyone experienced these symptoms? Thanks, Yozza

If I want to replace the condenser, I assume I'll lose all the gas. Is the 'best' option to take it to have all the gas removed safely, take the car away, fit the new condenser, then take it back to be re-filled? (Two trips) Could I take the condenser off and lose the gas, then refit a new condenser and take it for a air con service to filled and lubed? Ideally I only want one trip to the a/c service centre (to keep costs down).

Just thought, should the rad fans come on when the a/c is switched on? Mind don't or is there a fan switch somewhere?

Excellent tip, no vents, so that's sorted - thanks.

Thanks, that saved me losing all the gas. I'll contact a a/c specialist to get an idea of price and potentially have a new condenser on standby if required??? I've read in the manual that the gas required to fill the system varies if you also have rear a/c, how can I tell if I have. I think I just have a blower in the rear???

Just had the front grill off mine tonight to have a look at the infamous cap on the condenser. Took the angled plastic cap off and squirted some water on the seal and alu cap, guess what.....bubbles. Not a huge amount, and could be one of many leaks??? If I remove this alu cap (to replace o ring) will I be releasing all the gas in the system or is this literally just a cap that has trapped gas under it. If this is the case then am I right to assume the condenser has a leak around the drier unit which will need rectifying? What is under that cap? I would have a look but I'm concerned I'll de-pressurise the system.

top tip - thanks

Thanks fella, that is a great thread with lots of useful info AND pics - forum power!

Thanks, it's the Mk2. I've been up the local 'trusted' garage who do refills and detection (using a dye). They quoted £60+ to fill the system including a dye to see if and where it's leaking, sounds reasonable to me. He did say if it's the evaporator in the dash it's a ball ached of a job, but also mentioned the condenser as a possible culprit. Is there anyway I can determine if the condenser is leaking before I take it up the garage. Would the old trick of using soapy water around the joints be viable?

I've got used to heated seats in the winter (Passat SE) and my Galaxy aint got them, however, I've noticed heated seats for sale on fleabay. Here comes the question... Is it possible to retro fit these into a vehicle, i.e. is the wiring loom standard so that the seats can plug straight in? What about the loom in the dash for the switches, again, are these wired in ready for switches to be connected up? Any experience out there??? Thanks, Yozza

I believe this is a common problem with these motors (leaking, dryer replacement, etc). I need to have a drains up and resolve this problem before the missus gets behind the wheel. I suspect a leak because it's way too warm. How is it best to tackle this type of problem, can I find the leak myself or will I need an A/C specialist to detect/repair/refill? Do I need to get the front bumper and grill off to access the dryer? Sorry to fill this forum with more of my woes, once I've resolved this I'll go on holiday and give you all a break :-) Cheers, Yozza

You have, more to inspect once the motor is up on the stands (again). Thanks, :0

Cheers, I'll have a gander.

Hi Folks, I have had a 'clunk' ever since owning this car, I can only hear it when I drive over bumps or pot holes. I have jacked up the drivers side and tried wobbling engine to no avail so I don't suspect the roll restrictor bar (and I replaced the drop links). However, I was able to replicate the sound when I gave the wheel (whilst jacked up) a good thump at 3 or 9 o' clock (position on the wheel as you look at it, not the time of day :-)) From this my thoughts are tracking, maybe a worn TRE? Any other suggestions worth investigating whilst the car is up on the stands (again)? I noticed the wishbone bushes are not vulcanized all the way around their circumference to the surrounding metalwork, is this how they're made so the are free to flex up and down or have I got a split bush in disguise? Anyone got a pic showing this level of detail? I also noticed that the clearance between the top shock absorber cup and the bodywork is about 1/2", is this excessive clearance, possibly a worn shock? It is a firm ride, but I've not driven another Galaxy to compare. Thanks, Yozza

Thanks, I checked all of the above so I set out to make sure I was getting fuel to and from the engine. I had connected the fuel supply and return pipes the wrong way on the can filter! School boy error but a quick one to fix! Thanks for all your replies to all my recent questions - I'll give you a rest for a while! Cheers, Yozza

Thanks for all the replies fellas, I'm now tackling another problem...