Mr Poisson

hi, have you checked ALL of the fuses, my wipers played up and a fuse for a seemingly unrelated sysytem had blown, but when replaced wipers worked again! also fuse identification card in car was wrong...???? may be worth a search on seized wipers also hope it helps

hi guys, what are the fortuna tyres like? ive got dunlop 2020 sports on mine and they dont seem to last too long! regards

hi, wiperblades.co.uk are very good, price seemed reasonable and very quick postage. i used them and they were excellent regards

hi, when my light came on the pads were fine, it was the disc that had worn, and the non worn outer edge cut through the sensor wire. the discs are crazy money from fraud but reasonable at local stockists and fairly simple to replace. regards

hello ghost try supaseal.co.uk, huge selection of circlips and stuff. give em a ring 01858 434141 hope it helps

thanks seat kid, no luck with pictures i'm afraid, i binned it out of disgust and the bin men have been...sorry. as to reason for failing...the bellows type dust/dirt seal(grey) looks to have migrated along the cylinder, toward the brake pedal. this reveals the black seal that seals the booster, enabling a vacuum to be built up, the integral o-ring seal within this had split and become detached. as to why i don't know, but dissapointingly it seems common given the number of "hissing brake pedal" posts. my advice to anyone with a hissing pedal is get it changed soonest, it's a scary experience when it finally fails.

hi guys, the brake pedal on the galaxy started to hiss about 2 weeks ago. i looked through the forum and similar posts reveal the booster to be at fault. a few days ago the seal in the booster split completely, this gives you a lovely feeling of no brakes! you still have brakes just doesn't feel like it! also the booster provides the turbo with air to move the vanes, so no turbo and dodgy brakes...yipee. time to change the booster, what a job! you have to remove the airbox, engine covers, egr valve and pipes, brake reservoir, master cylinder, and then loosen the engine mount to enable the engine to be pulled forward to jiggle the booster out, not easy!! inside the car removing the booster input rod from the brake pedal requires infinite paitence and the hands of a small child! however two very hot days later and

the fuse card and the fuses on my galaxy do not match up! it's a matter of methodically pulling and checking each one till you find the one at fault! not exactly technical i know but hey what can you do the monkey at ford put the wrong fuse card in!! regards

hi all, had to change the drop links on the galaxy today, i rang around for prices and was pleasantly surprised by the main dealer price!

hi all, if the pipe in question is aluminium on both ends with rubber in between. situated at the front of the engine bay with what look like, car tyre valve caps, then it is indeed an a/c pipe. the bad news....

err........ maybe fraud can help if you give them the vin number? try the parts desk tomorrow. your plate location is a mystery, mine is where your's isnt, if you see what i mean! stuck on the b-pillar passenger side. sorry mate running out of ideas????

hi do you have a TIS disc, it shows removal of the console with a manual gear stick. guessing auto may be the same?

the number through the windscreen is th VIN number, this contains info about when and where made etc. the VIN plate, or sticker usually lives on the passenger b-pillar. might be worth a snout under the bonnet?

hi all it is on the b pillar, the one between drivers door and rear door, low down. the sticker has lots of boxes you are interested in the 7 smaller boxes adjacent to the ford logo happy to help

ned if you ring the fraud dealer, give them the car reg, they can tell you exactly what blue you have. just a thought

malcolm the figures are -0deg5minutes (+/- 0deg 40 minutes) for each wheel therefore total toe is -0deg 10 minutes (+/- 20 minutes) hope this makes sense? figures are for a mkII can't find any linear measurements, sorry regards

deadpool, a simple strap spanner will remove the plastic cap covering the oil filter. it is fitted vertically by the way so you dont get oil dribbling down your arm! you can even use an old leather belt to remove the cap! the under sheild is held on with 4 bolts, easy to see, and two small nuts. you really need to raise the front of the car abit to aid removal, ramps or even something under the wheels (thick planks) are ideal hope this helps?

im with you bigjeeze, you can't beat scrabbling around under the car on the drive. if you dont have ramp you can always jack the car up, pop something under the wheel, repeat on the other side and wa-hey shes up! regards

i can't type fast enough to get in the top 10! fingers shagged from fixing fords for too long!!

vr6! there's nothing wrong with auto oil burners! it's the petrol heads yo wanna watch!

sorry just re read the post, the temps are 35.5 and 45.5 not as stated sorry!javascript:emoticon(':lol:') smilie i think you would have difficulty getting the oil to 355 deg c! regards

hi all after reading this im wondering if the car has really failed, or if the garage is pulling a fast one. linking a.b.s to emissions is strange and makes the cynical side of me wonder! as previously posted don't pay them and maybe try another garage who actually know the interactions between the various systems and associated symptoms? just a thought regards

hi tom a hope this helps??????????? Remove the undershield 1 Check automatic transmission fluid level Unscrew the drain plug.(rear of the box) Bring the automatic transmission fluid to a test temperature of 355C to 455C. (This can be cheked with a vag-com or I suggest a run to the shops!) If automatic transmission fluid drips from the drain plug bore in the overflow pipe at the test temperature, the fluid level is correct. If necessary, top up with automatic transmission fluid 2 Top up automatic transmission fluid Note: The transmission will not function properly if it does not contain the correct quantity of transmission fluid. The transmission fluid is added while the engine is running. Top up the automatic transmission fluid until it starts coming out of the overflow pipe in the drain plug bore.(top up hole in front of box) Fit the drain plug using a new seal and tighten it. regards

zork hi, the plug on the motor is secured by two tabs that you squeeze whilst pulling and rocking the plug. mine was very snug but gave up after some efforts. this is on a facelift model. hope this helps....!

topbloke, you speak the truth! it would appear to be a slightly random fuse card. anyway better a couple of pence fuse than a 300 quid motor! oh the joy only a ford can bring!