SONYPS23

Now fixed!! Car broke down just before Xmas and AA man said it was a dodgy alternator, which I thought was strange as it was new two years ago. Anyway started to look online for new one, saw cheap brand new ones called RTX so checked them out but soon found out they are cheap for a reason, anyway found a recon one on eBay for £80 and it works perfectly, and guess what make my old one was...yes an RTX one!! So don't buy RTX alterators!

Pulley clutch is fine.

Ok thanks will try the relay thing, changed the junction box but still the same, battery has died on me twice now!

What next guys???

Bump

It came with one fitted.

Sorry but I haven't got a clue.

Battery fine.

Battery is Sealed Calcium, had it twos years yesterday! I'll get it checked. Alternator charging but I have to rev the engine to get it started.

Bump

Battery pretty much fully charged now, everything tightened, but still having to rev the engine to get rid of the battery warning and then still get the error message. New fuse box now?

Yes I must get the battery 100% fully charged I agree, the fuse box looks good it was only the old cable that look slightly burnt, I'll check all the connections tomorrow, but I think everyone is tight.

Still getting the error message now and then, is it worth getting a new fuse box now?

The resistance of the old cable seems to be the same as the new one? I used the jump lead and it when from 12V to 13.5V so alternator works. Just fitted new cable but battery very low so not great from testing, but it's seems like it's charge straight away with no revving or error message on dash. Just charging the battery up to make sure, fingers crossed!

*how do I

Sorry but do I measure the resistance?

You’re probably right, I haven't soldered in years and it was a bit tricky doing it while the cable was still in the car, I've brought some 170A cable and going to make a new one myself in the shed, I think I'll be able to do a much better job then. Thanks for the info.

Been a long time, but only just got round to doing this! Solder the top cable today but still not getting over 12 volts unless I Rev the engine, fuse box seems ok maybe change the cable? How easy/hard is changing the cable? Is there any other reason why the alternator doesn't kick in on start up without revving?

Ok thanks

Bump

Just tested the battery and fuse box, on tick over without me revving the engine battery was at 12V and the cable in fuse box was 11.90V, battery light still on too, after me revving the engine battery light goes out, no message this time, battery and fuse both over 14V. New cable and fuse box or solder the cable?

Just ordered a multimeter, so will check the volts soon and the top cable seemed warmish when I felt it after a 15 min drive.

Anyone?

Hi, new on here, just need some info on the old alternator workshop message please. It started about two months ago, I would start the car and then get the alternator workshop message, and as I knew my Alternator was on the way out I got a new one, but I still got the message so I swap the Alternator for another one, thinking it was faulty, but still got the message, so I got the battery tested and it was bad so I got a new battery, but I'm still get the message. I have taken it my mates garage and he found two codes on the ECU and cleared them, the message went, for an hour or so, now went I start the car the battery light stays on until I rev the engine and 9 times out of 10 the Alternator workshop message pops up, the ECU is still clear of codes and its all charging, but I just don't like the message coming up. Also I've read about the burning fuse box that Galaxy's have and my Alternator cable wasn't burnt but didn't look right so I've cut it back and put a new connector on, but I still get the message. So should I a new fuse box and Alternator cable? Or is there something else? Any ideas would be great. Thanks Michael