BrianH

Also - the fuses have changed a few times over the life of these vehicles, so yours might be fuse 27. Really hard to guess without knowing what year of vehicle your asking about.

From what I remember on the mk1 when i had that problem, it knocked out some other functions - the instrument cluster being one of them, it would reset every time you started the car (so trip counter was reset every time you took the key out) I think it may effect other functions as well, so best to put it back in when your driving it at least. Broken wires in the door gaiters are common on these, so you'd be well advised to check when you have the chance to do so as you don't want a wire managing to short out to something.

You might want to have a look on the info on the other forum - sadly this one has a few issues, and isn't visited much anymore. https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-common-faults-and-problems/ford-galaxy-mk2-fuse-information-circuit-and-rating/ i think its fuse 32 you most likely want, though fuse 2 is also indicated to do with the doors as well. But if yours is a later mk2 (after 2006) it may be different. Door wires is the first place to start looking though as you already suspect. Be careful when putting the fuse back in - the car might try to lock itself, so keep the keys to hand just in case (And I wouldn't leave them in the car if you don't have someone in the car able to open the doors just in case).

I'd have a look under the seat, as you may find the loom already there (typically I've found Ford fit the loom but just leave the bits not needed unplugged). This won't solve missing the controls, unless they are on the seats themselves. But I've fitted eletric adjuster seats to a car that didn't have them previously and they worked straight away with no further effort needed (did have the height adjustment as electric, but the forward/back and tilt was manual originally)

Its very broken - the fact you tried to get that to post 3 times before it went through sadly shows how broken it is. If you also look on the main page, a reply to a post doesn't bring the post to the top anymore, so you can only see a new post from the main screen and only if its the most recent new post as well. Unless its just me? But you must have noticed the new posts here by now are few and far between. Yes theres loads of useful info here, and it would be a shame to lose it, but its getting harder to actually find it now.

I'm not convinced you will even see this as this forum is very broken, but if you do, then a suitable resistor bridging the clock sping output would prove if the clockspring is the culprit. It should switch the light off once you reset the code with vcds and stay off. People have been known to "fix" this fault that way before, not sure offhand what resistance is needed. The clock springs are different depending on spec level - buttons on the wheel. Bear in mind its checking for the correct resistance - and given your moving the wheel and it goes off, that would say its the clockspring as thats the only bit that really does any movement (every time you twist the wheel of course). Only way you can rule the airbag out other than that, is to swap the bag. I had one upto about a year ago from the mk1 I scrapped (one of the bits that never sold). Unfortunatly you can't send them to anyone as noone will deliver them. It ended up left outside (its still there actually) but its probabbly useless by now. If you are struggling still and can't get an answer here, try www.fordmpv.com as most folk from here are over there now.

Most likely some sort of turbo issue - split hose, sticky vanes etc. If you have vcds scan for fault codes, if any come up try searching for previous issues. Sadly this forum is broken and dying - posts don't post properly etc. You might have more luck at https://www.fordmpv.com

Your probabbly looking around that to get one supplied and fittted, If your interested in prices, goto www.eurocarparts.com and you can look at the cost of the parts based on your reg number. Mine is showing £197 for the parts only (you want a 3 piece kit not the 2 piece one offered) using the discount code at the top of the page.

Test wise - easiest test is to put your foot down on the brake and release the clutch - a working clutch should cause the car to stall, one thats slipping will probabbly let it carry on. Might also be that the slave cylinder isn't releasing properly for some reason and is leaving the clutch partially disengaged.

Sounds to me like the clutch has reached the end of its life - either its worn the friction plate out, or the slave cylinder has failed and let the fluid out over the clutch. I'd suspect the first option is the likely cause. Any signs of anything leaking from the car? (you might need the undertray off to see anything)

A dodgy CV joint on the driveshaft would be where i'd start looking

You'd usually expect issues with the wiring in the door post area to be the cause, pull the gaiter apart and see if you have broken wires there?

Don't know about the route, but a lack of flow would suggest either the fan isn't running at the speed your telling it to, or more likely the pollen filter located in the scuttle area is blocked. I'd be inclined to do a scan with VCDS for the heater system, it might be able to shed a bit of light on whats going on, I think the flaps are all electrically operated, never seen the dual AC setup, but would guess its possible either a linkage has come off, or a motor has got stuck. The righthand set of buttons relate to the rear heater on the single zone setup, can you hear the rear fan speeding up as you increase the speed?

It sounds like you don't have the handle reinstalled correctly - its easy to install once the lock barrel is sorted, as you can turn the paddle around which makes installing it much easier (without having to strip the rest of the door apart). Its possible you've bent the operating bit, but best bet is to fix the paddle bits, then see if you can get it sorted from there, its possible to remove and reinstall the handle when its working correctly without removing the rest of the lock, but if the operating bit doesn't turn its much more tricky (which will be the case if its broken).

You might get an answer on the other forum - this one is rather deserted now (not helped by the software having a few issues causing posts to appear not to post or be updated). most of the posters still active have moved over there now - https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/