jcol

So, did this today. Getting the front bumper cover off is really easy - only one problem - where it attaches underneath, Ford say remove three screws. Actually, Ford, there are three plugs, and I wasn't sure how to remove them, but luckily found a youtube video of how to remove a sharan bumper. See link below for an idiot's guide! Really useful. By way I didn't even know that what I was trying to remove was not the bumper, but the bumper cover! Removing the power steering pipe should have been straighforward, but I had huge difficulty undoing the two torx screws holding it on. I rang the breaker yard who supplied my replacement pipe and they said that they often just lever it off! Lots of WD40 later, and I was close to just drilling the screws out, when they finally gave way. The other issue I had was what fluid to buy. By the way thanks Seatkid for an earlier post saying that fluid with G002.000 is the one. That is I think the VW code. The one in my Galaxy handbook says use N052146VX00. Suppliers I rang weren't very helpful, but I found a Silverhook power steering and hydraulic fluid on Amazon which has both those codes on the bottle, but managed to find a stockist in London by ringing Silverhook. One litre seems to have filled the system. Hope someone finds this info helpful..

I have a leaking power steering pipe - the metal one that runs inside the front bumper (M2 tdi). I've managed to get a second hand one. In the FAQs it shows how to remove the front bumper - looks easy. Will that give complete acces to replace the pipe? If so any other guidance welcome!

Thanks - will have a look, but the guy who sold it to me said that he would probably have to cut the loom in the car side but then found the plugs. The connectors that go into the car are just over 2cm wide, but of course they may have been attached once the wire are run through? Think the first thing I need to do though is to have a look at what is happening in the tailgate. Can I get the pillar trim off without removing the lower door card? Also, I can't see how to get the boot out at the car end. It really doesn't want to let go, and I don't want to split the rubber..It is a mark 2 Galaxy

I'm now getting ready to tackle my wiring loom issue! I did an earlier bodge, bu pullingback the boot,and everything is working except the high brake light and numberplate (mot issue). Can I get the tailgate pillar trim off without removing the door card? I'm hoping to maybe resolder/repair existing wires once I can see more clearly what is going on. But I did buy a good secondhand complete loom which has plugs at all wire ends, and the boot on it seems fine too. How easy would it be to replace the whole loom? Thanks for any advice..

Yes, that makes sense, so the spindle should be sticking higher up? Guess that could explain why the motor was still running, but nothing happening to the wipers....suppose I could try opening the motor up to have a look, but think I'll wait to see what the wipers on the car look like to compare first. Thanks for your help..

Well, as you say, given it's thickness, can't see it would be possible to bend it. Also the linkage that goes off to the left attaches to an equally strong pivot bracket, and that is not bent, and that linkage would not be able to be higher up because it is contrained by the pivot. So a bit if a mystery! In any case what are the two metal upstands for anyway? When I get the time, but am too busy with other jobs, so won't be in the near future, I will access the linkages on the car to see exactly what is going on!

Should be a photo of the part (bracket) that rotates - as can be seen that bracket which is attached to the motor just can't! So the only way the wipers can go back is for the bracket to reverse, which apparently it doesn't?

Thanks for your help Brian. Yes I agree the bracket attached to the motor, if it goes in a circular motion, will reverse the linkages - the problem I have though is that the bracket cannot complete the circle since it meets the metal upstands. I assume I must have done something wrong when I reattached the motor, but I really can't see any other way of doing it? If the bracket was a bit higher up from the motor, a good centimetre, then it would go over the top if the upstands, but don't think I've left a bit out? So I am still confused, but at least the used set I bought are working all right, though the driver side spindle is very tight and could do with a regrease. When I have time I may see if I can take the set out, but, before removal, once I can see it all, I will switch it on to see what is happening!

Well I rang up Bosch technical support, and a helpful man said what you also say - the motor turns in one direction, and the linkage does the reversing, so given this, it does not matter how the motor is attached. The problem is that looking at the unit in front of me, with the motor attached, there is a bracket on the linkage which attaches to the motor spindle, which is rotated by the spindle, but then that bracket meets a metal upstand, which I suppose stops the wipers from going beyond the high point on the screen, but what happens to the motor then? The bracket can’t carry on round with the metal upstand stopping it, but would seem to need to go back the other way, when it will meet a second metal upstand to stop it, so completing the sweep of the windscreen? Basically I can’t see how the bracket can do in a circular motion, which I suppose could reverse the linkage? You can see a picture of the wiper mechanism in the very helpful link below, with the two metal upstands (one is near a screw head). So I am confused, and also still wondering if and what damage was caused by the wipers seizing, but the motor still running? http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/18463-wiper-linkage-removal-and-regrease/?hl=%2Bwiper+%2Blinkage+%2Bremoval

yes, think I've got the linkage in the parked position, with the plate like that, but, how do I know that the motor spindle position in its cycle syncs with that position of the plate, if that makes sense, or does that matter? I don't know how the motor works - assume it cannot turn in one direction only? If it turns in one direction and then back, then that would need to match the linkage plate position?

Actually when my wipers seized I could hear the motor running, but no movement in the wipers. I took the motor off the unit so that I could free up the spindles (huge struggle!) and would appreciate advice on two points; Assume damage has been caused and if so what? I put the linkage back on and moving it does move the motor bit, so does not seem to have sheared the taper end? Does the linkage need to be attached to the motor in a specific way/position?

last August my MK 2 Galaxy wipers seized on the M6 in a downpour on the way from London to Scotland - Saturday lunchtime as well. However when the rain stopped I luckily managed to get a replacement whole unit from a breaker yard and a kind RAC man changed them over in under an hour. However recently the offside wiper has not been wiping far enough over. Fearing spindle seizure (and my original unit spindles had seized solid), I thought I would try a temporary easy fix - my MOT is due soon. Getting the wipers off was the first huge problem - trawling the internet for advice did not help, but a local friendly mechanic told me how, so thought I would pass on his advice in case anyone else has the same problem. Open the bonnet, remove the nut, lift the wiper off the screen, grab hold of the part of the arm goes over the spindle end and joggle it up and own - it eventually gives up and loosens. I then removed a circlip, a washer and then there should be an 0 ring except they were missing. I then squirted WD40 hoping that it would make its way down the spindle. In fact the nearside one actually seems too loose, but the driver side was was very tight. I then put the nut on (just in case since there was nothing holding the spindles up) and turned the wipers on, to encourage the WD40 down the spindle, and squirting more in. Then refitted it all - used the O rings from my old unit Now seems to be working properly - at least for the moment, but when he has time I'm going to get the mechanic to get the unit out and do a spring clean on the spindles and grease them properly. You might know all this already, but I didn't..can't thing there is an easy way of getting grease in?

Thanks for your advice - yes I can see that there seem to be two guages - might try to get a second hand loom, and use a good bit rather than the part that has been in the boot, so I can match the colours..and yes almost all the wires have cracked sheath even if they are not broken..

Problem solved! Noticed that my horn wasn't working, so thought I would try changing the fuse -handbook says red 10amp, number 6 in fusebox. Checked fusebox and no way is number 6 a red fuse. At that point in despair I went to my friendly (working out of one lock up) mechanic Peter. He was also confused by what was in the handbook, but just checked all the fuses and found one 5amp blown, so changed it. Guess what, not only did the horn work but the central locking is back to normal, with the red light also working! Definitely going to get that tailgate harness sorted out properly..but still very mystified by the effect that this blown fuse had on the central locking, so that the driver door was doing the opposite to all the other doors?

Thanks, and had already found that post! Had a look at driver door - all wires seem fine, but as you said a bit fiddly to get the gaitor back on. Think I'll focus on the tailgate first since a few wires have problems and I can't find the other end of a thin green one - think it has been pushed out of sight down the gaitor which is why I was trying to undo the other end of the gaitor. I need to renew the loom. There is a thread where someone recommends YY wiring and used one 7 core and two 4 core. What guage does the wire need to be and will one size work for them all. Is 1mm enough? I have found the thread on removing the tailgate trim in FAQs