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Couldn't find similar mechanical door lock related thread, other threads was more or less electrical deadlock problems or door handle/lock cylinder related problems. First I tested if my -97 Galaxys "dead locked" driver door (left) can be opened with key, but no luck. Then I removed door handle (from back door gap) and tested with big screw driver from lock mechanism groove to be sure, because lock cylinder link rings are known to be chipping over time. Actually my lock cylinder link rings are missing from both side and lock can be opened only by remote and rear door lock. I pulled door card off and confirmed that lock mechanism get both opening pulses from central locking. Little wondering and I thought that lock have something more serious problem than seized dead lock mechanism, because key should open dead lock mechanically. So ordered used lock mechanism from scrapyard. Door lock is pretty easy to remove from locked door, if you don't have to save it: -Removing door handle gives more space and you will be sure that it's not lock cylinder link ring issue. -Remove door card and plastic shield -Remove both wires from lock mechanism -Remove plastic shield (Number 1 in my first picture) with screw driver. Now you can check with mirror if dead lock is activated or not. (if you don't trust that thin plastic key link is operational) When both white plastic parts are up (see my second picture) both locks are open and problem is in lock mechanism not in motor unit. -Break white motor unit (Number 2 in my first picture) from lock by pushing it against door outer handle, it cracks pretty easy -This expose locks opening pin that is connected straight to lock latch I guess that in some case whole riveted pin could be fall off and prevent door to open. This was my guess at some point when I was eyeballing my "new" lock. -Twist latch pin up using big screw driver (marked "open" in my second picture) It needed good twist in my case, because brown plastic part was broken and it was turned to wrong side of latch pin and it was blocking latch normal movement. Missing plastic part was also preventing both handles to open door, because opening force is supplyed to latch via that plastic part. -Then just open three torx screws from doors end to chance new lock mechanism. Br Ile

I got u585 and it works pretty much like I was hoping. VAG menu works for ABS, climatronic, Airbag, etc. Basic OBD menu works with -97 Ford 2.0 engine. Scan included fuel system, comprehensive components (=ECU), O2 sensor+heating and egr. Rest of infos like misfiring seem to be N/A, I guess these infos are stored only with true OBD2 compliant newer ECUs. Live data and Freeze frame aren't supported either with old mk1 ECU.

Does anyone know if something like u585 scanner communicate also with Galaxy engine? It might, because they list also Ford specific codes from -96.

I had same issue in drivers window, motor runned only shortly to both ways, but window doesn't moved. There is two metal clamps installed to glass bottom inside door, front clamp was loosened and dropped to bottom of the door. So mechanism tried to push window down only from back edge and over current sensing turned motor off. Installed clamp back and now it works fine.