amagnu2012

Just to add a note here, I had a light on fault and thought it was the abs pump, turned out to be the fuse in the engine bay. there are 2 there that are abs related, check these too.

same problem as me, after loads of BS quotes for replacement gearboxes, I did my own homework and it turned out to be the N92 solenoid, I replaced it n been fine ever since, http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3469274#post42159730 check here for info. Btw its a pig of a job to do, very limited space.

Hi, I have refurbed my 2002 gals alloys, As seems the case with alloys of this age the outer 'plastic coating' lacquer goes before the inside recessed bits do, curbing, stone chips etc. what i did to remove the bad stuff from the outer areas ( now don't scream at me, this does work ) take a cheap 1 inch woodworking chisel, make sure its sharp, round off the corners with some fine wet n dry so it don't cut into the alloy ( please wear safety glasses for this, it flies of with some force ) and just use your hand as that is enough force to get the coating off. You will be surprised how easy it comes off. if your chisel is sharp it with leave a ' clean ' cut between the outer and recessed areas, I then used a detail sander with some fine grit paper to provide a good smooth finish, you could do it by hand, but a cheap detail sander is only 20 quid ish, make sure you 'key' the recessed areas also. Then make sure you clean all the dust etc off. the next step is to use a good ACID ETCH primer, this stuff will fill all the minor scratches, and give you an idea how good/bad your wheel is, any areas you need to fill/sand will show here, depending on your level of pickyness, don't forget a couple of coats of paint and some clear lacquer WILL cover a multitude of sins. best bit of advise I can give is do this on a windless day or inside if you can, and more light coats are better than a big one. I did mine in anthracite, will post some pics when I have time as only done one side yet, I'm hoping to get all four done from the same paint cans. will post again to let you guys n gals know if this is possible.

Yip, one guy quoted me £1095 to do this job. So yes Still feeling very smug ; )

YES!!!!! N92 fixed it ; ) thanx to the guys on the above link, This is a relatively easy job to do, but due to confined space get a big bag of cable ties to get everything tied back. I didnt use the ratchet tie trick to move the gearbox back. just a little tip from me tho, the vent pipe that goes into the valve area, make life a real pain to do this job. I felt I had nothing to lose on this job, so I cut off an inch or so, it is just a vent pipe after all. made the job of putting the cover back easier. The hardest part of this job was getting a good bead of sealant ( with the limited space ) but you can buy a small tube of silicone that does not require the use of a gun from wilkinsons in the card making dept for £2.00. I hope this will help any others that have the same problem. BTW I am not a mechanic by any means, but i do have some mechanical aptitude ( and SMALL hands ) also many thanx to chrispb for not letting me think I was talking to myself on here ; ) Car drives like a dream now. Steve

having read further into the above forum I am more than convinced this is my problem, some excellent info including how to strip down valve assembly with pics n everything; ) this is a job i think i can tackle myself, so gonna order an N92 solenoid VW part No 09A927331A £62 + VAT and give it a shot. Fingers crossed; ) Steve

Mmmm this sounds just like my problem, some real good info here, probably N92 solenoid. Well one step closer anyway, is this a stripdown ( removal of gearbox to get at ) or can i get at it from outside? still waiting on manual. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4188370-02-1.8T-Jetta-not-shifting-gears-from-1st-when-cold. Steve

Cleared all codes, Took it for a spin and got the following, gearbox issue still there tho. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine Controller: 038 906 019 FA Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G001AG 1457 Coding: 00001 Shop #: WSC 00021 No fault code found. Readiness: N/A ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 02: Auto Trans Controller: 09B 927 750 AG Component: G5 Getriebe 09B 0157 1 Fault Found: 00652 - Gear Monitoring 27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 08: Auto HVAC Controller: 7M5 907 040 D Component: CLIMATRONIC MPV GP 0003 Coding: 00010 Shop #: WSC 00020 1 Fault Found: 00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129) 35-00 - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 09: Cent. Elect. Controller: 7M3 962 258 S Component: Multifunkt.Einh 0001 Coding: 04097 Shop #: WSC 00000 2 Faults Found: 01141 - Luggage Compartment Unlocking Switch (E165) 29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent 00955 - Key 1 09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Will try to find sensors and check em 2mo, waiting for a ford manual on disc from fleabay ( to check these is it just a resistance check? ) if yes do you have any info on what they should be? thanx Steve.

For the record, this may help a few others that need this info, Ford sold me Castrol ATF TQ DIII £9.18 per ltr. after a bit of research I have found this is now rebranded as Castrol Transmax Dex III. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-746-castrol-transmax-dex-iii-multivehicle-formerly-castrol-tq-diii-atf.aspx and Halfords sell it at £8.49 Steve

Vag com results, what a pig to get that working; ) VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S Chassis Type: 7M - VW Sharan Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,18,19,29,36,37,39,45,46,55,56 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine Controller: 038 906 019 FA Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G001AG 1457 Coding: 00001 Shop #: WSC 00021 2 Faults Found: 17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer P1570 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 18080 - Coolant Fan Control 1: Open or Short to Ground P1672 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent Readiness: N/A ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 02: Auto Trans Controller: 09B 927 750 AG Component: G5 Getriebe 09B 0157 1 Fault Found: 00652 - Gear Monitoring 27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 03: ABS Brakes Controller: 1J0 907 379 P Component: ABS 20 IE CAN 0001 Coding: 12702 Shop #: WSC 00020 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 09: Cent. Elect. Controller: 7M3 962 258 S Component: Multifunkt.Einh 0001 Coding: 04097 Shop #: WSC 00000 2 Faults Found: 01141 - Luggage Compartment Unlocking Switch (E165) 29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent 00955 - Key 1 09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent Do you guys think the shorts may be causing a fault in the gearbox readings speed control etc?

Thanx Chris for your speedy response, managed to get some atf from ford at £9.18 per ltr. I expect things are just gonna get more expensive now tho, I put 1ltr in in 250 increments but made no difference, did notice the fluid smelled burnt tho, I think thats probably not a good sign. this is a real conundrum as the car drives perfect when gearbox is warm ( not the engine ) until I stop for 30 secs or so! not managed to get vag com working as yet, Felt real stupid earlier with whole pc setup in car in the street running off extension lead, driver wouldn't load tho. Will try again tomorrow and post results. Steve

Hi I have a 2002 galaxy ghia tdi auto LK02 XRH I think its a 5 speed box ( gear lever goes to 4 and handbook says this indicates a 5 speed). Having some big probs with gear change, When the gearbox is cold it holds 1st gear until it practically red lines, I can sometimes force it by going into manual for a second or two. but until the box is warm it slams into 2nd with such force sometimes that its dangerous, After its warm it drives fine, all changes are smooth etc. BUT when the car stands still for more than a 30/40 seconds at traffic lights for instance the problem returns, I am waiting for vag com cable so I can check ATF. What ATF fluid should I use? what gearbox is mine? for future reference, any other advice would be appreciated. many thanx Steve