steve alan

looks like the wire has pulled through the pear drop lead piece at the door lock end, wire has not snapped or broken just pulled through & out of end piece thanks

done all that just need bit of advice on removing the section or complete lock

​hi all ,has anybody had the end come off the internal door pull wire at the door lock end & repaired it? if so how, is it repairable or do I need a replacement? ​other question is how do I get the section needed to replace or repair out ,or do I need to get the entire lock and outside handle off and out? ​any help on this welcomed thanks in advance ​steve

anybody had the end come off the door pull wire and fixed it? if so how? also how do i get just the bit arrowed in dig out or do i have to take complete lock and outer handel off to get at it? any help welcomed thanks in advance steven

hi cleaning & refurbing my 115hp turbo ,noticed 1 bolt was a little bent (there are 3 holding the plate down )looked on flea bay but cannot find them(or know size/name) anywhere any help welcomed name, size,where to buy (or order) took pic of flea bay bolts ringed email that firm seems the only come with kit and the cannot get them separately hope it pops up thanks steve

well done all these things suggested, funny thing is if I hold revs on at 2000 2500 3000 it don't smoke much if at all, it's when you let the revs die then blip it that's when it starts to smoke ,build revs up smoke goes ,any ideas? as where to look. I even took off the air pipes for turbo, inlet and outlet so as to make sure it's not got smoke coming from those pipes, not run without exhaust yet to check that part , do you think it could be the oil rings? There is some back pressure at the top but wouldn't say excessive. don't really want to buy a new turbo cartridge ,just incase its the turbo housing that's at fault any visual way of testing that, think there is only 1 spring steel seal in it and sure that was replaced on rebuild ? thanks in advance steve

thanks for the replys, no it don't smoke on startup, nor tickover, just when you rev it ,after a while smoke thins out, let revs die smoke goes, then quick blip its back as before, it does seem to thicken up round 2000 revs will try takin exhaust off and trying get back later with results I did think there might of been a way of disabling the turbo and running it as non turbo, just to test & eliminate the turbo from the equation steve

hi well my galaxy is nearly finished, I have replaced virtually everything on it inc eng,(but not chassis/body/interior) but it is still smoking (blue) James bond smoke screen style I rebuilt turbo (one of them eBay turbo seal kits) still no luck, so now instead of replacing I need to eliminate stuff(sick of the work and the spending) thinking it now has to be one of 4 things 1. rings,(so need to do compression test to find out if any cyl low) 2. valve stems oil seals (although I don't think the would cause the amount of smoke it produces) 3. erg valve 4. the bloody turbo again. 5. intercooler soaked in oil (did check both pipes inlet pipe was wet but not excessively outlet was dryish) now my question is, is there any way of running the car (just to test) without the oil feed pipe for the turbo?(block it off & if so with what, if still smokes I can then can eliminate the turbo. also as for erg what's the best way to eliminate that , the old ball bearing trick in the vacuum pipe? or completely block off with a plate? finally anybody in the Manchester area got a diesel compression tester, that would/could test it for me?(sorry but galaxy is off road so would have to call round) thanks in advance steve

thanks for all the advice will take it all into consideration just waitin on some better weather before starting the job, and as going to replace all ,will prob destroy the tops if it makes life easy i will try and get a step by step photo montarge of what i did and how i did it and as the mod said he will try and get it up on here thanks to the members for there imput wish me luck as not a youngster at 62,(my son was going to help but has now cried off) but like to get the jobs done without breaking the bank and as the struts & springs for both sides plus the other little bit only cost about £70 it's worth sorting myself other than a couple of hundred quid (maybe more?) to a garage for the work not gonna be done anytine soon as working outside (in the open) so want a bit of good weather first thanks steve

yes thanks to all who replied, did a google search and it came up with the results quicker than the search on here, problem is they dont go into much depth on how to! some say you can get out with the rubber bush intact ,but how? some say you can cut (with grinder) between rubber bushes? there seems to be loads of i did it this way, but very little on how it was done,what you have to do etc so I was thinking of clamping the springs, so i could cut (grinder) through the shock thus allowing me to pull out the rubbers and rusted nut etc from the top? but would this work or is there something i am missing that would not allow this to be done? thanks in advance ps think i might take pics at all stages and post as a how to if all goes ok ,(that's if there is a how to section? and members are allowed to do that?) steve

just done a search for front struts /front struts removal came up blank , cannot belive that there is no topics on this problem somebody want to point me in right direction please mine make a noise when turning (recon its the bearing) so replacing both sides complete setup, looks a bugger of a job getting the top nut off as rusted up, bought a small air grinder/cutter thought it woud fit in to cut nut off ,no chance of it fitting, so ant help on a good (and easy) if poss way of removal welcomed steve

mine make a right noise when turning side to side, problem is the top nut is well rusted,so want to check out post to see any ideas as to getting the nuts off to replace rubbers & bearings,replaced all the other stuff just these left,was thinking of just cutting tho the shock near top and lifting out might save some time ,then just replace with new shock ps. thanks sparky for the reply going to search now steve

dont know if this permited but there is a little prog ,(google for "VWTool") you will need a laptop and a cheap usb blue lead offa flea bay ,prog lets you clear ,check etc sim type to vag com program (not as good but free & works)

Thanks for the reply will check the board out and report back steven

thanks a member pm me its the rear heater blower thanks steve

full of questions today sorry, my 2 button galaxy key works fine manualy, however cannot get the buttons to work on it (after batt change) have followed the inst in auto dater to reprogran etc but still no button action working on the key? anyone else had this prob and sorted it? if so could you let me know how you did it thanks in adavance steve

took your advice and searched for removing front struts but search comes back nothing found ,care to direct me to the topics or post directly please

can anybody tell me what the plastic box is next to rear arch? nearside rear mkii galaxy

Hi anyone on here have a good 115bhp mk2 turbo for sale (AUY eng) or know where I can get a good one? manchester area thanks steven

Well it seem the eng on the 2003 galaxy I got had thrown a piston arm and punched holes back and front in the block ouch!!,must of been some crunch as flywheel is now covering releace bolts and is more or less a solid one now,clutch looks well toasted,(so need new clutch & flywheel any recomendations as to a solid or mass flywheel & clutch, pros & cons???) got a replacement eng ,but arived with injectors missing so have to use my old ones, problem is I think the injectors need the to be set up by the use of a DTI gauge something I dont have and have no knolage of doing??? help, anybody on here do this? see auto data says if not replaced correctly a lot of damage can be done to the eng ,& thats someting I dont want. also, checked the turbo(for damage) very slight side to side movement but fair amount of back & forth movement ,is that normal? would also like to check the injectors (clean & spray pattern)is that possible to do for home mechanic? and if so how to do, or what if anything to replace (120k miles on them) thanks in advance steve manchester area

right so that bright idea is out, guess first thing to do is check turbo, if thats ok, will get sump off and try and see which/what is stopping eng from turning,as it moves a bit then locks up with a clunk,(think that might be tensioner clicking back)but guess wahtever if turbo ok will get replacement eng(same type) so as not to cause other problems.just want to ask is it poss to replace turbo berings? if so hard or what?

was thinking the same ,as this is a 115bhp eng, could i put the 130bhp in ,or would i need the ecu off the 130 to get the correct hp? also does forum have a how to do section? did use search but came up with nothing, looking for best/quickest way of getting eng out steve

Well just to update thought i might have got away with it ,but the Eng is sezed so it looks like its an eng out job,will try just 1 more thing big bar on crankshaft see if that moves anything not holding out for much joy tho, any members with info on best way to go about getting the lump out let me know thanks steve

well turns out that it was low on oil(the black stuff) my son told him to get some in quick as it was knocking from bottom, unfortunaty he got as far as asda carpark when it came to a dead stop!!! to day checked the cam belt (not snaped) took out heater plugs and used wd40 in pots,placed in gear and rocked it cam belt turned and pistons were free,so its sump off over next few days to check the big & little ends. apart from that all electrics etc work ,will have to check that the belt did not jump any teeth when it came to abrupt stop before putting decent batt on and trying to turn over,thanks for the reply did notice whilst checking stuff on the net that there had been a ford recall on this one, for side curtains(air bags) and the dmf/clutch, so have sent email to see if this one has had the recall stuff done and if so when& where?, if its not been done guess will be getting the dmf/clutch etc done curtesy of ford ,(hopefully that is)wont know till email replyed to or after a quick call to ford themselves one thing i did notice is the cost of insurance,could have knocked me over with a feather. i'm over 60 loads of ncb last year a 2ltr rover £223 (year before £167)fully comp for me & the wife, (saga)checked this and nearly £700 (saga again) with like £400 excess,now thats a joke(well i think so).so will have to think twice on running this one that's for sure,thought ins based on parts ect , ford is quite a large volume car compamy, parts cheap ,and plentyfull, so why that sort of quote. steve

Hi steve here new to the f.g.o.c. normaly I'm a Vauxhall man ,but desided to get a ford galaxy (cheap 03 diesel non runner) to fix up as a project as now retired,just hoping I did the right thing first thing I did was to try another batt on it (just an old one) to check electrics ,which all work ,display etc (showing service mesage)(batt not got the power enough to turn over) as the one on it was completly flat,did notice that there was a buzzing noise coming from under the batt,not with ing on ,but when turned off and key removed, anybody on here had this happen and can point me in reight directon as to what to look for/or replace? also checked the expansion tank no discoulor to it,nor oil in water ,infact cleanest one I have seen,guess that rules out head gasket, will check things one by one next will be the belts,quick look shows the main one you can see needs replacing, not checked timing belt yet. one thing i wanted to ask is the mass flywheel, is it worth replacing with the kits avalable to convert to solid flywheel? anyone done this ,was there any noticable shaking at the pedal after it was done, would you recomend doing the conversion? thanks in advance for any answers steve