Simon Burke

Hi guys... ok, I am looking for an air oil separator for my car.. my alhambra has the AHU engine... Now, I have scoured the web, and can only find ones over here, new, for about

Hi Zorgman On startup, there's a big cloud of smoke out the back... When the engine is first started from cold, it sounds like someone has thrown a bag of pebbles into a washing machine at high spin.... but it settles down to a less dramatic rattle after about 5 minutes, but it still doesn't sound right... I am usually a petrol head, but I am learning about diseasels more and more... I will use a bottle of ATF as you said to clear the gunk.... Can you send me the link so I can get a set of lifters??? IF I took the old ones out, cleaned the hole where the lifters go, and lubed everything up, do you think I would get away with that, or are new lifters needed?? The cheapest I could find on fleabay is

Hi guys ok, I am having more problems with this car... there seems to be a rattling from the top end of the engine.. like under the cam cover.. Sounds like there's a load of stones rattling about the place... Now, I have kinda bodged it... When the engine is running, and warm, I spray a load of WD40 into the oil filler hole.. that silences it somewhat, and the engine is smoother... I am thinking that there's a problem with the oil delivery from the sump to the top.. Could it be blocked, preventing the cams being oiled up?? If this is the case, would I have to strip the engine to get at the oil feed pipe, or could I just blast it with some WD40 or something??? Will I have to remove the sump and do it from below??? All help is appreciated Thanks

hi guys... I tessted it up a hill.... always could cruise up this hill in 4th at about 55mph, but I had to drop into third and rev the bo&$ox off it, and just managed to get up the hill.... so, @NikpV, good call... to Zorgman, I have had a look at this article, and it seems like the yanks sure do know what they're on about... I might be going for a MAF out of a jetta or a passat... significantly cheaper.... Thanks guys....

Ahoy.... I have been rebuilding my alhambra slowly and surely, but I have noticed a dramatic loss in power... I had found some pipework that was split, so I got that sorted, but she just doesn't want to accelerate.... I had the connection to the MAF on and off while doing a test lap of the housing estate, and, to me, it seems the same... Usually, there's a surge in power around 1700rpm or so, but it just felt like a gradual acceleration.... Can someone confirm or deny it is the MAF?? Thanks

That does sound better alright.... I dont think I'll be selling this car.. I've put too much blood and knuckles into it... :( I'll have a look around... thanks

hi there, I am just wondering... I have done so much work to this car, I don't want to get rid of it.. but I would like to "pimp" it a bit... not too much.... I was wondering if I could put the dash of a mk2 into the mk1 car....???? I mean, will it fit and will the toys work?? If anyone has done this, or knows for a fact it can or cant be done, do tell... Thanks

I have a '98 Alhambra 110TDi..... I had the same kind of problem, but one added one... Where the cables join onto the top of the gearbox, that had split, so I could get no gears at all....So, I removed the battery, the plastic holder for the coolant bottle and the fuel filter... With these things moved out of the way, I could see right into the place I needed.... I used a load of jubilee clips to hold the big black plastic sections to the metal frame attached to the gearbox.. So, when someone is in the car, they can change gears and I can see whats happening.. No slop at all.... Oh, and where the ball joint clicks in.... If you put a jubilee clip either side of the rubber wheel and put it over the flat plastic piece that clicks into the balljoint, that will be a permenant fix.... Gearchanges will be a little bit stiffer, but all gears are accessable... Hope this helps someone.. S..

I have a '98 Alhambra 110TDi..... I had the same kind of problem, but one added one... Where the cables join onto the top of the gearbox, that had split, so I could get no gears at all....So, I removed the battery, the plastic holder for the coolant bottle and the fuel filter... With these things moved out of the way, I could see right into the place I needed.... I used a load of jubilee clips to hold the big black plastic sections to the metal frame attached to the gearbox.. So, when someone is in the car, they can change gears and I can see whats happening.. No slop at all.... Oh, and where the ball joint clicks in.... If you put a jubilee clip either side of the rubber wheel and put it over the flat plastic piece that clicks into the balljoint, that will be a permenant fix.... Gearchanges will be a little bit stiffer, but all gears are accessable... Hope this helps someone.. S..

ok, got the box in, linkages on... all done.. but I have noticed on one of the gear linkages that the cable is damaged... where the cables are held on the box, the plastic thing has seemed to divide into two parts... not broken, but whenever I move the gearstick, I get plenty of movement, but not at the actual linkage.... is there any way of fixing that.. don't want the dredded 4 hr cable replacement job to do.... yes, new seals too....

Found a pic of where the problem is.... Can anyone help at all????? :rolleyes: The MoT is today..... :rolleyes:

By the way, that pin I was looking for, I got it in a breakers yard.. :-)

Hi there.. Ok, I have had a big job to do, took me 4 days... thats right, days... Replacing a gearbox... So, box in, everything all sorted.... Go for a gear... nothing.... under the bonnet, checked the linkages to the rubber things with the ball pins in them... all good... I could select every gear in the box from there... but I ran my fingers up along the linkage cables, and realised that, you know where the linkages anchor to a metal plate.... big chunky plastic things, its like they're pushed in... well, that plastic frame that allows the cable to go through it... there's an inner plastic sleeve that is moving, hence the inability to get any gears..... So, my question is... Is there a handy way of stopping these things sliding so I can get all my gears handy.???? Also on a side note... Does anyone have a spare clip to hold the hydraulic pipe onto the clutch slave nozzle??? When I was removing all the bits, I was removing the pipe, and this little pin went "PING" and I have searched the whole garage for it.. Any help in any questions would be a great help.......

hi there... Eh, yeah, it's a '98 so I am assuming then it's a 110bhp.... someone told me it was a 115, but never mind..... I have downloaded the TIS software, but I have a windows 7-64bit machine, so it won;t work.... Basically all I need to know is (1) there is a flat plate with four holes, and that plate is connected to a big ruber bushing..... Do I remove the battery to access the top of these bolts?? (2) Do I lower out the front subframe to separate the gearbox and engine...... (3) Do I need any special tools to remove the driveshaft from either side of the diff.... Many thanks guys Simon

hi people, I am a relative noob when it comes to the MPV section of cars... I was always a classic man... but I am having problems with my gearbox... it sounds like I am driving on gravel.. or worse, coco pops.... anyhow, I got a 2nd hand box, but there are so many different ways to do a job like this.... Does anyone have the definitive version....??? I have had the front sub-frame out to replace the steering rack, so am I wrong in assuming that this would be the best way of changing the box?? If anyone can get back to me with any diagrams or scans of pages or anything, tht would be great... Thanks Simon