qswi271

I am sure the super fast mechanics can do it an hour or so, when I did mine it took me a day from start to finish, with many tea breaks. You might as well do the timing belt, tensioner and water pump in one go. I got the set off ebay which was very reasonable. The TIS (again CD off ebay) has an excellent set of instructions. The only bit I found a bit tricky was understand the timing set up, but once you do it it is far easier than it sounds. I also bought the Sealey tool kit VSE5951 which cost about £70 but you can do it without it.

Original error was glow plug shorted and glow plug open, which I thought an odd combination. I stripped down the unit tested the glow plug, which was working perfectly, everything else appeared OK, rebuilt the unit, cleared the faults, then got both open and short errors on the glow plug. At that point I concluded the controller was not working properly. Also could not get the output tests working with VCDS (I have the expensive real version, paid for itself on one service of my Audi A6).

Fingers slightly frozen - but the new heater works :angry: I have wired a 680 ohm resistor across the water pump connector, this is enough to fool the controller into thinking it has a water pump attached. Dissipation is around 0.2W so I will replace the 1/8 watt resistor with a bigger on (probably 1W) as the little thing does gets warm. The water pump stays on about 3 minutes after the heater turns off, so no need to worry about idle load. Leaving pin 3 disconnected works. Looking forward to a those fast warm ups in the morning.

Thanks - connecting pin 3 to 7 is a really really bad idea - the car does not turn off when you take the key out the ignition :angry: Now I have found you need a load on the water pump I'll disconnect pin 3, esp since it appears to be an output, odd how it is connected to +12V on the eber pdf.

Yep I found the Eber pages, problem is that they do not really explain the way the controller for the heaters work, for example on the D5WS does the heater work if pin 3 is left floating, or does it need to pulled to +12v, I have now connected it to pin 7 which goes to +12v when the engine is running (for those who not had there head under the car for hours pin 3 and 8 are not wired into the loom on the Mark 2 Gal) If I get time at lunch I may try some bigger resistors instead of the light bulb to see what current the controller thinks the water pump is connected. I still can not figure out why Ford have the unit wired to a perminant +12v, seems odd as it can not turn on until the engine is running. I guess it is the 10amps that the glow plug draws when starting, which would need a bigger relay ? I kind of guessed the early heaters only support the Eber diagnostics. I have it wired up to the loom (pin 5) VCDS still works on the other controllers in the car but does not see the heater (controller 18). Do I now spend

I made up a couple of mounting plates out of 4mm Alu I had in garage. The left and right sides are different of course. Then screwed these to the heater The exhaust fitting also had to be made Bent And the whole lot mounted in old bracket

First little surprise, the mounting points on the D5W-S are not same as the D5Z-F, so the bracket that fixes the unit to the car does not fit, time for some real engineering. And the end bracket does not fit as well.

The controller unit is bolted on the end of this unit, my guess is that this is why the newer units fail, electronics do not like getting hot so sitting them on top of the diesel burner is more than a little stupid. For those who do not know how these heaters work, they are very simple. The motor drives a fan that blows air over a stream of diesel, onto the glow-plug into the combustion chamber, this burns. Water passed around the chamber and warms up. Here is the famous glow plug, took me ages to find in the new unit as they are in a totally different place. Life expectancy around 2 years, I agree with most the comments here, popping to shops on a cold day does not allow the unit so operate as designed, it should run for at least 30 minutes, not 3 as is the case in our household.

Here it is a brand new heater bought for

I'll start with some advice - don't do it. Like many others the control board on the Aux heater on my 2005 Mark 2 Gal died. After many complains from cold children I searched and searched for a low cost solution, but failed. In the end a new D5W-S came up on ebay (Ford 37A12A02), we agree a price and the shiny unit arrived. 1 hour job I thought, 3 weeks later just got it to start - but all not well. First the fittings are different so it does not fit into the Mark 2 housing, I'll post some pics later. So I managed to knock up some adapter plates, then the exhaust bracket does not fit, so I made a new one. Next problem was the electrics - the wiring is close but not quite the same, first the connect does not fit, same connector different locking tab so does not fit, I took the old connector off my duff controller and soldered it on. Then I had to connect pin 3 to +12v (pin 1). A fruitless few hours checking everything and still no heat - my VCDS does not talk to the heater, but I think it is not supposed to (still not sure here). Finally remembered reading a thread about a light bulb connected to aux heater, turns out this is to connect to the water pump output (the extra cable on the D5W-S), hey presto heat :lol: Problem now is that the 12V on the Mark 2 does not appear to be switched, and the heater appears to keep the water pump on (not tried to see for how long yet). I do not want to kill the battery (sore point as my Audi A6 just had a

Niall Did you have to unsolder the connector to get the board out? Mine does not want to move. Looks like you figured out how most the controller works, don't supposed you got close to drawing a circuit diagram?

After reading a lot of posts here I now find myself in the dilemma many others are in. I have a 2005 TDI Galaxy with the D5Z-F heater. VCDS tells me I have an open glow plug, then it tells me it is shorted. Took the unit off, stripped it down, got the plug out - top tip - paper clip straighten out, then folded in half, push into connector and the wire comes out. However plug reads 1 ohm on meter, and glows happily when popped across a car battery. Conclusion - broken controller - yes Chris you were right again. So advice on what to do: Buy new control unit (22 5205 00 20 01) from CZ - UK dealer says he can not get one.

After waiting for the bits to arrive the whole job took 6 days, I recon around 15 hours of labour, but I am slow and spend a massive amount of time figuring the simple stuff out. The end result is staggering, it is like driving a new car. She used to struggle, now its vroom vroom. Thanks again for all hints, still not sure what made the biggest difference cleaning the gunk out the inlet manifold/EGR valve/butterfly or cleaning the turbo? I think if I had to do it again I could get it down to around 6 hours. I now have 3 sets of hex keys of different lenghts but still struggled to get the EGR tubes back together again. Finally the run-on pump now works so the car heats up :-) All I need is to mend the Aux heater when I can get a new glowplug - they appear to be out of stock because, wait for, it's winter and demand goes up, yes the manufacturers have not worked out that winter happens this time of year.

Figured out why they break, the turbo has a threaded adapter that screws in on end, the other end mates with the flange on the oil pipe, which is locked on with a nut. When you unscrew the locking nut it stays put and the adapter unscrews, since this is locked onto the pipe it rotates and breaks. I can not work out how you are supposed to lock the adapter, it is 17mm and a spanner does not fit in (it is between the turbo halves), maybe a steel bar pushed in between the adapter and turbo housing ? I'd love to know what the trick is.

Chris - Spot on the electric circulation pump does not work, I pulled off, stuck it on a 12V supply and it worked for a few seconds then died. I guess reading the posts the brushes go. This is starting to get expensive! I can not begin to imagine how labor charges would have been at the local garage.