motly

Tatsfield. Up the hill from Westerham.

Hi Chris, I am partially deaf and it's high frequency deafness.. ie I can't hear the letters F S T etc. That means I can just about hear the air leaking from the tyre valve when using a pump. I am also 66 and not really able to get under the car for any length of time. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to and have done engine and gearbox replacements in my time. I guess I am really looking for something that I can easily do or someone who can come and do it for me. I am not looking for a freebie just a guaranteed fix even if it does cost a fair bit. Thanks for your help.

Well, that didn't fix it. Just when you get to thinking you cracked it...Fitted the replacement accelerator and gubbins but still have the same problems. Driven nice and sedately it seems a little sluggish but picks up and runs OK. Get on a decent road and with the revs at about 2500 and held there (55mph or abouts) for a couple of minutes, if you try to go any faster, the revs will not increase. If you slow down a bit and change gear things only get worse and the maximum speed drops further. Reducing the revs slightly by backing off the accelerator at least allows you to continue at a reasonable speed. Push it, and it goes down eventually to an embarrassing 20mph. Turn off, remove key, wait 30 seconds, and restart. Things are back to normal. This time using VagCom fault code.. 17964 Charge Pressure Control: Negative deviation P1556 - 35-00- - I am getting seriously peed off. As I stated before, I don't mind spending the money and really like the car but not getting anywhere despite replacing several parts hoses etc and about

Ford Galaxy Mk2 2001->2006 Throttle Accelerator Pedal 7M4 721 603 D Is quoted. I'll let you know what I actually get.

I thought the best you could do with the lite version is read fault codes. Will have to look into that. Went 40 miles on the motorway before the fault became evident again. The removal and subsequent clean and replacement of the accelerator 'lump' does not seem to be a complete cure. I still have problems with hesitation when the pedal is depressed. Sometimes the car will not go over 60 mph in a situation when it could easily do 80. However, the fault does seem different from before. I have purchased a second hand unit from Ebay and will thoroughly check it before installing and have another go.

Just to keep you up to date. I removed the accelerator unit and took it apart. It looked perfect bu i cleaned the circuit potentiometer tracks and slide contacts with iso alcohol, re assembled and re installed the unit. So far I have not had any problems and seem to be able to get the revs up higher than I have before. I am 'heavily' into electronics and it would have been fairly easy to bench check the unit by applying a low voltage to the pots and looking at the wiper voltages on a dual trace oscilloscope. Never mind, I needed to get it out and back in before the heavens opened and that has not been easy recently. Another observation. If the unit is re assembled fractionally off from its original position, it may well be that the wipers will be moving up and down on a fresh, unused part of the printed resistor track. I might get a cheapy from fleabay and play. Thanks for your help. I will keep you posted.

Cheers Chris..

Thanks chrispb123456 and SilverBeast . I might have a look at this or get it looked at. Are there pictures anywhere freely available and is full access to it within the car?

I too am plagued with odd 'limp mode' problems. The turbo was replaced and all seemed OK for about 18 months then 3 months ago had to be AA'd back from Cornwall. Since then and about

Fords will tell you if you supply reg and vin numbers. How do yo know Halfords don't do it if you don't know what colour to look for. The do mine and the lacquer.

Sorry I missed the bit on latency. How do I adjust this? Did not see a field for latency in the first screen or two.

Sorry about the late reply, been up to my neck in all sorts of things. Seems to acknowledge that the interface is there but on trying to communicate with various modules starting from 01, it tries and tries but nothing. Took so long looking that I had to abandon the exercise. I am near to Westerham in Kent. Having spent some time this weekend with the car fully loaded and otherwise, it's not so bad. I just expected a bit more gusto.Seems be getting better since the turbo was replaced. Maybe me getting used to it. On a steep hill near me, if I am not quick with the gear change and it drops below 2000 rpm, I have to drop back down and give it some more welly. I just don't like running the rpm up to about 4000 before changing gear. Having said that, when I do push it a bit, it will happily go up the hill in 4th at about 60mph.

I dont seem to be able to do to much with the diagnostics. Using VCDS Lite and other applications but although the software recognises the com port, it spend oodles just retrying and failing to find anything. I gave up as it was taking too long. There was some mention when checking that the communication was slow or poor. It's a nice little netbook that I am running the program on, using Windows XP. Is there a recognised way to speed things up or get better results?

If I pull the plug, do the codes for o/c MAF sensor get stored? When I take it back next week, these codes will be seen and they might presume MAF intermittent? Will have a go over the weekend if time permits. Not used the VAGCOM setup yet, still looking for the connector. Really must get on and do some work before it's time to go home.

OK on that. What can I expect if I disconnect the MAF plug just for a quick test run? Another unrelated to GAL question... how come I am a newbie? Does this change after so many posts? Couldn't see anything in help files. don't really mind but at 64, old fart would be more exact...

Thank's for the advice. I will keep you posted as to what they have to replace but If I get a MAF it's expensive and got to be the absolute correct one for the vehicle. Seen too many people just replace it with any old thing and end up with more prob's. As a matter of interest, what results should I get just pulling the MAF plug? might be worth trying?

By the way whats an Italian tuneup? or is that just 'give it some welly down the motorway to blow cobwebs out'. The other half tends to get a bit edgy when I go into brown trousers flying mode. have to wait till she snoozes off.

Dunno, Just went into limp mode once on the way home from purchasing it and again a few day later. They could not make too much sense from the codes they got so sent it to Frauds as their kit shows more info. Frauds replaced a couple of parts ( I don't know exact details ) but still the same when my guys road tested it. Went back to Frauds and they finally said replace turbo. All is now OK except the lack of GO. Turbo's are expensive and they tried everything else first. Seems to be a few new bits under the bonnet but the MAF looks original. I presume that's the section with the connector in the big intake pipe left hand side of engine compartment. I used to do most things on previous vehicles engines, gearboxes, clutches etc but at 64 and with a 2 year warranty don't really want to get too involved apart from an overly keen interest in whats what hence the laptop VAGCOM setup.

Thanks for that info. They said that the turbo should not have needed any adjustment as this is done during before they get it but they are only too happy to move the 'cut in' point a bit lower in rpm. At 1000 to 2000 rpm there really is nothing. They seem to know what they are doing. Unusually for a used car dealer, this one started life as a top notch service / repair center and they honestly don't like unhappy customers or a bad reputation. So far they have gone the extra mile to be helpful. I will take it out for a decent run this weekend, it's only done shopping up till now. Hope to stick diagnostics on it to but not found the connector as yet. Is this model 2003 td ghia ashtry or somewhere near the fusebox / right hand side of steering column? Regards to all.

Hi Seatkid, You may well be right but all I can do is pass suggestions on to garage. They love that when you tell the what you think is wrong. Only just got the beast so it's all down to them. They have arranged a Saturday when I can drop it off and pick up 3 - 4 hours later. main man reckons they will adjust things ( rods ) so that bthe turbo comes in earlier. Now if I did that, it would invalidate the warranty. Anyway so far it's cost them best part of 2k. They got Frauds to do the diagnostics, tyhat took them twice replaced several bits before eventually turbo and possibly inlet manifold. Don't much care as long as they pay and it all ends up good. By then it looks like I will have a lot of new parts, -.-. .... . . .-. ... G1FKP

Hi Mirez, Thanks for the reply. Mine is the same as yours 1.9tdi 130 but in pepper red metalflake. It's a great drive but I feel that something is not quite right until the turbo kicks in. It moves OK in normal traffic but at 1500 rpm, even if I floor it, nothing much happens until 2100 rpm. I am new to this vehicle, only had it 3 weeks and two of them were back at the dealers replacing turbo and inlet manifold. Over the weekend I will try out a VAGCOM setup on my laptop. Got the lead from ebay but not done anything with it so far. Be nice to see if any codes come up. The Focus is a 51 plate 'estate' and even with 197k miles on the clock goes very well and still returns 10 miles to the litre.

Come on chaps, give me a clue. Do you always have to drive the beast in the 2100rpm plus band up hill or is mine a bit strange. Super thing to drive but you really have to blast it up hills. Some idea of speed in various gears would help. Not much in the user manual. Also lots of smoke from underneath on cold mornings, presume aux heater but doesn't get warmer any quicker. Still takes 2 miles or more for the guage to move. Iv'e got a 2 year 5 star warranty and would like to sort out any problems soonas. Regards to all.

Hi all, hope someone can help. I bought My Galaxy 2003 Ghia td and within a week it went back for a new turbo ( limp mode 3 times ). Now all ok except there is little or no power until about 2100rpm when the turbo comes in. It poodles nicely in 5th and 6th at fairly low revs but if I need to go anywhere reasonably quickly, I have to drop perhaps 2 gears to get into the 'power band'. Is this normal? If it had more guts at lower rpm it would be great. Apart from the limp home problem, it seemed better before the turbo replacement. I must admit I am used to driving a diesel Ford focus where power is there all the time but the galaxy seems to need a completely new driving technique. Any help apreciated. Tim.