galaxy

What a lifesaver. I had started dismantling before i checked for replies but did not go too far. Checked fuse 33 and it had failed (10 amp and should be a 30amp). Replaced it and my wipers work again!! Why is it listed as blower?? Anyway, thanks for your help. Saved me a load of aggro! Paul

Hi all. Interesting one here. My wipers are not working on my MkII galaxy. The fuse is good and no sound of a relay when i switch them on. The garage are pretty sure its the motor and a VW quote is around

Yes battery is good. I have just tried it with the engine running and still the same, light flicks every second or so.

Mobile charger doesnt light up at all. the lighter socket in the back is doing the same thing? Would a loose earth do it to both sockets? if so where should i look?

Checked and there is power to one side (12v). I plugged an invertor into the cig lighter and the power light flicks on every second or so? Confused!!

Fuse number 1 in my book reads 'Engine management (2.8 1 CD-V6 24V and turbo diesel engines)' Mine is a turbo diesel and has no fuse!! Anyone else?? Paul

Hi all. I have had a problem with my cig lighter which caused me to explore the fuse box. To my surprise some fuses are missing which, after a little research seems normal. (heated seats fuse, no heated seats fitted etc). What has left me wondering however is fuse number 1 missing (engine management), fuse number 18 (thermo switch and cut off relay) and fuse number 29 (ignition, fuel supply) Now, my car is a Gal Ghia Mk2 1.9tdi manual and the owners guide lists each of these fuses as relating to Turbo diesel engines. The car seems to run fine and my consumption is good. Should i replace the missing fuses or just leave as it is?? Any advice is appreciated. Paul

Hi All. Got my fingers crossed on this one. Mk2 gal Ghia 1.9tdi manual. The ciggie lighter stopped working the other day. I have checked the fuse (no 7 25amp) but it is ok. I then got on the forums and have pulled all 20-25 amp fuses, all ok. I have looked for a little row of fuses at the top of the main fuse board but there arent any. No fuses under the drivers seat. WTF!! What do i check next?? I am hoping somebody has a gem for me!! Thanks Paul

Hi All. First post of a problem of my very own. This forum is great and has been a big help for other issues but i cant find anything on this problem. The radio in my MK2 Galaxy Ghia 1.9tdi automatic (5000 RDS E.O.N)intermittently re-tunes itself. It used to do it very occasionaly but now it does it every 5 minutes or so. I originally thought it may be the controls on the column when driving but this morning i had arrived at my destination and was sitting in the car listening to the end of a program. The engine was not running and i was not touching the steering wheel and it did it? Anyone with any suggestions?? For what its worth i feel like the electrics all round are starting to go on the fritz! The central locking wont work from the button on the key (new batteries in the key and the light on the key comes on when i press the button and the cpu under the passenger seat is dry and appears undamaged)although it works (the car locks and unlocks)with the key in the door(seperate problem i know but may be related!) and the parking sensors have stopped working. Related?? Any suggestions welcome. regards Paul

As i understand it, it is a Jatco box used across the VW audi range and also in many Japanese cars. Having said that, mine failed at about 110000!! New Box around £1800.00!!!!! Paul

Hi All. First post of a problem of my very own. This forum is great and has been a big help for other issues but i cant find anything on this problem. The radio in my MK2 Galaxy Ghia 1.9tdi automatic (5000 RDS E.O.N)intermittently re-tunes itself. It used to do it very occasionaly but now it does it every 5 minutes or so. I originally thought it may be the controls on the column when driving but this morning i had arrived at my destination and was sitting in the car listening to the end of a program. The engine was not running and i was not touching the steering wheel and it did it? Anyone with any suggestions?? For what its worth i feel like the electrics all round are starting to go on the fritz! The central locking wont work from the button on the key (new batteries in the key and the light on the key comes on when i press the button and the cpu under the passenger seat is dry and appears undamaged)although it works (the car locks and unlocks)with the key in the door(seperate problem i know but may be related!) and the parking sensors have stopped working. Related?? Any suggestions welcome. regards Paul

Fordi, I'd be very interested in knowing how to swap out the air con clutch in situ... thanks.

I did a bit of digging on this excellent site and found all of the answers... I started with disconnecting the EGR pipe and blocking it off with a 6mm bolt. All of the problems were instantly removed!!! So the EGR valve is obviously faulty. I may get round to changing it at some stage, but it sounds like I should be able to run with it like this permanently without any major issues. I was amazed what difference it made. A point to note are the symptoms, low speed jitter and a weak pull off. Other than that the car would run fine at higher speeds. If it's still a power problem, then check out the other links... turbos, MAF or TMAP... it will be one of those most likely. Thanks all.

Just noticed some great info on EGR valve cleaning.... looks like the way to go, i'll keep you posted. Thanks anyway.

Hi, I wonder if anyone out there has come across this issue? My MK2 (2000) Galaxy TDI (90BHP) is running uneven from cold. It feels hesitant and slightly erratic at very low revs and especially when cold. Once it's warmed up, its not as bad, however it's very easy to stall at low revs and sometimes hunts on tick over. There is plenty of power in the car (well... all 90BHP of it) during acceleration and it doesn't appear to be uneven at higher speeds. If you slow down to low revs (say 30MPH in 4th gear) rather than smoothly labour it starts to jitter - if you throw down the accelerator it jumps a little and then picks up under the turbo. I replaced the MAF some time ago and this problem was there before, so I'm sure its not the usual affair... I've heard a few people say that it may point to the EGR valve being dirty/ faulty.... any thoughts welcomed. Thanks :-)

Further update: New MAF sensor replaced, which squeezed the top end power out of the car. It's now running great. A good point to note is that I swapped the MAF at the start but it didn't make any difference..... that was because the TMAP sensor was shot and the system was ignoring both. Another point is that I ran the car without the TMAP and it made a big difference to the running of the car - it was really slow. You would have assumed from that the TMAP was working fine then.... not the case. After the TMAP was replaced and the car started to respond better I tried the MAF again and it made no real difference. Now a new one is fitted I can see the difference... its not massive but it is definately better. Job done! Hope it helps.

Update: Right, after getting hold of some test equipment I have the following results and advice for all... The Engine is a 90bhp ANU type, however having read the VIN code the car appears to have come out of a German factory but registred in England? Don't know if that makes a difference. The Turbo (look at my previous pics) is actually a wastegate type (not variable vane). I proved the actuator runs on positive pressure as well and is working fine. The solenoid valve which is the normal you would find on a 115bhp Variable vane controlled type is indeed a 'standard fit' for this model and year (I fail to see how though), even though it is plumbed the same way, it actually uses the positive boost line from the turbo to control it. So if you read above how the variable vane runs.... this is the opposite. The solenoid stops the pressure getting through to the actuator until it reaches full boost, then starts to back it off. But it uses the same gear.... not the standard wastegate control gear, so be careful if your model is a 2000 such as mine. It looks like Ford have mixed the components on the early models before they set the "standard". I ran the car with a turbo gauge plumbed in... must have looked funny with these pipes hanging out of the window while I booted it up and down the road.... anyhow I digress: The turbo boost gets to about 15PSI on full boost, the wastegate starts to operate at about 7-8 PSI (reading from the actuator), although the actuator will fully open the wastegate at about 15PSI. Everything turbo wise is actually doing what it should be doing: i.e. A waste gate type has the turbo on boost all the time, the positive pressure moves the actuator away from the unit and opens the wastegate, thus releasing the pressure. If this doesn't move you will get an over pressure fault and the car will switch to limp mode. My car was showing symtoms of lack of power and hunting at high revs. I pinned my money on the TMAP ( as the wastegate runs on pressure - I assumed it may have a direct effect on it) after a bit of investigation, managed to get an after market (new) MAP for

I do need to get the error codes checked out again. After some investigation I have descovered that something isn't quite right with my motor. The car was orginally advertised as a 115bhp TDI, however the engine code is clearly ANU. This means its a 90bhp version - fraud have also verified this? Stranger still, the turbo is actually a 90bhp version which is why it looks different to the other pictures on this website, however the control gear seems to be 115bhp variable vane type? I was under the impression that the 90bhp version uses waste gate technology and utilises a different type of actuation unit. If you look at my photos above you can see the turbo solenoid valve which according to the TIS is 115bhp variable vane control gear? It might be that my car should have a 115bhp turbo fitted to go with the control gear... or someone has been bodging Has anyone got a 90bhp version who has this type of control gear? In answer to you question, I did check all of the associated pipework and found the following: 1: One pipe from the solenoid goes to the turbo air intake and creates the vacuum pressure 2: One pipe goes to the turbo, which when tested gave a positve pressure 3: The last pipe goes to the vacuum actuation unit on the turbo: i.e. adjusts the boost. I took the solenoid valve off and tested it on the bench and it works fine. As before, the trouble is the vacuum actuation unit on the turbo doesn't move under vacuum, it only moves under positve pressure? However, the turbo solenoid only supplies vacuum for boost control, the positive pressure is used to reset the uint and release the boost. My only assumption is that the turbo actuation unit is shot.... I'm going to have a talk to some turbo specialists and find out what type of pressure actuates my type of turbo. I can then start to work out whats going on.

Right Guy's, I have an update, I went under the car again and this time applied some positive pressure.... Hey presto! The vane actuator arm moved away from the unit!!! This is proof that my unit moves the vane actuator on postive pressure???? Completely the reverse as to what the TIS guide gives? Does this mean someone has fitted the wrong turbo at some stage? It also raises the question now as to how the n75 valve can work properly! I had this off as well and started blowing into various holes: I seemed to get different results each time I switched the ignition on and off. I'll do a bit more digging on this one as I beleive this valve is variable, rather than just two position - I think it can actually have all three ports open at some stages: Has anyone actually proof tested a working unit to see what it should do and on what pipe? I've attached some shots of the turbo and the n75 valve for reference should anyone need it. 1: This is what my vane actuator looks like: 2: The turbo: 3: The n75 valve: I did have a play with the pipes on the n75 (swapped some around) and managed to get a very small amount of movement on the turbo vane actuator - I'm going to have a think about it and test the n75 properly first. Watch this space.

"Hi, I replaced turbo on my 2004 Tdi 115 Auto ( AUY ) about 3 or 4 weeks ago, so this might help you

Thanks for the input so far guy's..... For those how are interested... The pipes connecting to the n75 valve are easy to trace (well on my Galaxy they are), one goes to the Air intake down pipe (going to the turbo) - and is connected just after the Air Mass flow sensor, this is the Vacuum line. I checked this and I was getting some limited vacuum out of it - however until the turbo goes onto full boost you won't get full vac. The other pipe goes to the turbo - the text book quotes this connection as atmospheric pressure - however in theory, as long as it starts to release the n75 valve which it will as soon as the n75 valve swaps over then boost is released. This valve is operational as far as I can tell, I have already proven that the vacuum diaphram isn't moving the rod - however I struggling to understand how it moves the rod out rather than sucking it in? It almost suggests that the pipes were connected round the wrong way. However the TIS clearly states it is operated under Vacuum - and then shows how to test it!!! So it's got to be right. I noticed a few pictures of a Turbo that been pulled out of a Galaxy MK2 on this web site - however this picture and others I seen elsewhere all show a slight variation on the equipment. The vacuum diaphram units all point downwards and are pretty much central - however my unit has the vacuum diaphram mounted on the right hand side (pointing off side - looking up from under the car) and activates a rod across towards the near side? I can't find any pictures with this description? Have any of you guy's out there got a simlar type Turbo configuration or have I obtained a special?

Hi, I was wondering if anyone out there has some practical experiences with the turbo vane mechs fitted on a MK2 Galaxy. I've had a good look through the threads on this website and used the information to get as far as proving whats working and whats not (by the way it's a great site). Basically I've lost all boost - I've been under the car today and applied about 20" vacuum to the Vane diaphragm - but it didn't move at all, thus i've found my problem. I tried giving the actuator arm a little help - but could only move it in one direction. I was expecting the rod to move towards the diaphragm unit (due to vacuum), however the only movement i can freely get out of the rod is away from the diaphragm? Is this right? - Should it pull towards or push away from the diaphragm. If it is right and it pushes away, then the vane is actually working fine - it's the vacuum diaphragm unit not moving the rod. Before I start stripping the thing out and getting it replaced/ repaired I'm interested in finding how the rod moves away from the diapragm unit under vacuum (unless the unit is constructed in a abnormal way). Additional - can the vacuum unit be replaced? Thanks Dave.

Thanks I'm going out now to have a look!!!

Hello. I have a large puddle of water in the front passange footwell. I've had the windscreen checked and he says its ok. I've found that when it rains, the rain water seems for sit under the door seal on the main body of the car and then drains into the footwell. (sorry about the description here but don't know how to describe it!) the water seems to be coming from the engine, by the vents and stuff and the top just under the windscreen. The thing it The Man at the garage said that he cound dismantle all the 'stuff' under the bonnet to get to the vents and see if some of drain hole are blocked (there does seem to be leaves and silt sitting in there) but it would take him some time and could cost me over