CATT

Chris yes it is a manual car , and thanks for replys, i am going to pull the pipes off on wed and see if the oil comes out of the oil cooler whilst it is running, hopefully it will be that... and i will see how much i can get one on ebay for...

PS there is no creamy gunk on dip stick so looks like its oil in water and not water in oil...

Went to check water today on T reg tdi and there is an inch of oil on top of the water in the expansion tank, the car is still running ok without over heating at the moment. Could this be the oil cooler coroded inside or more likely head gasket gone?, i still have full power too. Can i do a check to see if its the oil cooler first instead of scrapping it, thanks

Seatkid thank you for your reply, i will strip them down tommorow and see if that is the problem.. I will post back when i can, cheers. :)

Hi, my brake pedal does not fully return which causes drag and the brake lights to stay on. I have to put my foot under the pedal and give it a little lift.. Would be thankful if anyone can tell me the cause of this please as it is very annoying and dangerous.It is only a bit of movement but enough to cause these problems, thank you

New problem has arisen with 1.9tdi 2000.. its like the turbo is not cutting in after i get to about 50mph but if i turn the engine off it returns until i hit same speed again?? any help will be appreciated. i have had a look round on site and the maf sensor was mentioned whatever that is, thanks

Hello, quite surprised there was no reply, any way got a length of m12 thread bar from wickes and cut it down, all on now and job done, was

Was out and about and the stabilizer bar snapped, managed to chug home at low revs... the question is when i get the new thread, do you screw the thread all the way in the back part and do up the nut until the back rod touches the casing or do i leave any play in it, thanks

undo wheel nuts and centre nut, jack car up, slap a axle stand under,take off bottom ball joint( better to take off the 2 bolts with an alum key instead of splitting joint) take off roll bar on the strut of the suspension. pull away strut and disk and you can pull out the drive shaft.. tap off the joint on the out end and tap off the rubber weight. apply the new boot with grease supplied and put a cable tie on.. then bang it all back together.. i have been advised not to use the split boots that you can glue together but i have never used one so cannot comment.. hope this helps

i have this same problem, i have put a plastic cap over the brake light switch to push it in about 2 mm when the brakes are off and solved the problem.. there must be a very fine line from when the switch is on and off. another common fault..

hi Mike, the bolt is a m7 fine thread, get it from meteor ford.. there is no need to change the actual selector. Just take your old one off and it will be a case of just tightening it up (adding locktite if you want) if its not damaged, if the bolt is damaged then you can either get a new bolt, put the bolt in out of your spare box or just change the lot over if they are the same.. You do have to lower the gearbox on a jack to get the selector off so dont make the mistake some people do and undo the 4 bolts on the battery tray as they are part of the mounting...

Good tip, thanks. I worry about this happening to mine, with it getting on a bit now. sparky Paul, if you are concerned that it might be on the way then take off your gear selector and check the bolt before it snaps or comes out..

your galaxy is not cursed, they all are :) wish you luck getting it all sorted.

Thats good to hears Steve but i did not risk it, i took the drive-shaft out and split the gearbox about an inch and there it was sitting right by the drain lug..i did notice there was a round disk in the bottom, i assume that was the swarf magnet... the bolt was

All back together and working again, what a game..