sasquartch

Interesting, you may be right. The ECP site does have DMFs listed in the flywheel section. It always stuck in my mind that it didn't have one but maybe I'm wrong. Not that it really matters, but is there any way to tell without stripping the car down ? And, yes, I will report back when the new tensioner is fitted

I don't think mine has a DMF. Pretty sure shortly after I bought mine new in 2005 there was a recall for DMF but it only applied to 130 models, the 115 was unaffected as didn't have DMF If I put my reg number into Eurocarparts it doesn't come up with DMF, just regular clutch parts. So I still think mine doesn't have one

Ive ordered a new tensioner so will try that as a starting point. With the engine idling the knock gets much less if I back off the tensioner slightly with a spanner - so Im pretty convinced the fault is in this area. Will see next week when Ive fitted the new tensioner whether it cures the fault. Was only 27 quid so no great disaster if it doesn't fix it - after 99k miles the original must be pretty worn out anyway. GSF have a 35% off offer this weekend btw

The tensioner seems to vibrate quite a bit, almost as if the tensioner wheel is a little eccentric causing the tensioner constantly readjust. Does this sound like a failed tensioner ? What are the usual symptoms ? When running should the movable bit (ie the bit you can put a spanner onto to release the tension) be still ?

Recently my 2005 TDI 115 has developed an intermittent rattle at idle that seems to disappear once the revs get past say 1500. It seems worse when hot but sometimes almost goes away then comes back again. The car drives fine and the engine power seems normal. I beleive the 115 PD does not have DMF and as said drives fine. I've had a listen to it and of course the noise isn't there so much at the moment but there is definitely a hard rattle present on the drive belt side of the engine. The aux belt seems to run true. Any ideas ? I'll wait until it comes back and have another look but any pointers would be welcome

As stated in my earlier post I've no complaints about my Galaxy in the 10 years Ive owned it from new. The 115 manual is probably the best bet for reliability - the 130 and 150 models have a DMF which might well need replacing when it gets old and isn't particularly cheap. I'll probably sell mine in a couple of years - I reckon it's still worth a couple of grand even now with 94k and full history / one owner from new - however the body has lots of dings and minor scrapes. I'd reckon a grand won't get you anything too nice - although there must be lots of people like me out there who have owned from new and will sell as their families have grown up and no longer need a MPV. So look around :-)

The rolling circumference will be different so your speedo will be out - although they will physically fit. A 65 profile tyre will have a larger circumference so the gearing will in effect be higher meaning the speedo will read low.

All Galaxy Mk 2 models are now quite old - so if funds allow I'd go for the Mk 3 or S Max A 99 car is now 16 years old so perhaps not suprising it's getting troublesome. Your comment about engine sensors is interesting - my experience with BMWs is that OEM stuff from the dealer of OEM make is fine, ebay cheap bits aren't. Perhaps you've had a bad experience with inferior parts ? My 2005 Galaxy was bought brand new and is now 10 years old with 95k and has been pretty fault free - only real failings have been driveshaft boots, drop links, heater fan resistor and the usual windscreen wiper linkage issues. So no complaints at all. Can't see any of the alternatives being much better, anything French is a lottery when they get old especially with electrics. I did look at a Toyota Previa when looking at Galaxys, seem very reliable but rather basic and van like to drive at least in diesel form

This is for a Mk2 - the OP car is 1997

Some exploits like this work by changing your DNS settings so that google resolves to something other than the real IP address for Google. Your DNS might be set in your router which then acts as a cacheing DNS server - check this is correct, either your ISP's DNS settings or you can use a public DNS server like Google at 8.8.8.8 From a command prompt on a PC you can use nslookup to check it's OK Using my ISP's DNS www.fordgalaxy.org.uk resolves to 88.208.237.197, check this is what you get.

It may be that yours is a rare type only fitted for a short time during the production run. However I'd imagine it's very possible that you could use the entire brake servo and master cylinder assembly of another make - I'd think it extremely doubtful the mounting holes in the chassis and the pedal assembly would be different. Would think you'd be able to buy everything you'd need from a breaker. With old cars sometimes you have to be a little inventive :)

The wiring diagram section in the TIS does say that fuse 7 is for the cigarette lighter

No charge !! I am around during the day. Send me a private message and we can arrange a time. Where are you coming from ?

I have the free vcds-lite with cable - if that's any good I'd willingly read the codes for you I'm near Potters Bar, Herts

When I changed the strut bearings on mine the top spring cup had worn quite badly and the hole was noticeably oval. This could well cause a clonk if the bearing can move around and will probably take out the bearing in time as well. I had to get replacements at a main dealer, at VW they cost about 25 quid for the pair which is a lot considering they're just two bits of stamped steel but had to be changed nonetheless