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wytonpjs

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Everything posted by wytonpjs

  1. Having endured automatic gearbox problems for over a year (vibration, sticking and snatched first to second changes) I finally bit the bullet and handed my 2001 1.9Tdi over to Eddie Rose (www.autoboxes.co.uk) for repair having been alerted to Eddie by this post: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...xy+auto+gearbox I cannot praise Eddie and his team enough - I dropped my car off on the Monday (I live in Andover) and collected it on Friday. They specialise solely on automatic transmissions and had a rebuilt Galaxy box on the shelf ready to go. If you too need advice or repair, I cannot recommend Eddie enough: E J Rose 22 Kingsmill Way Hermitage Industrial Estate Mansfield Ntts NG18 5ER 01623 624741 eddierose@btconnect.com
  2. Hi Only just found your pm (first day back in office post Xmas/New Year) and are sinking under weight of emails. In short, the MFD should work perfectly satis from just the GALA wire - it is a very intelligent unit and will recalibrate itself very quickly (mine took 3 test trips round the block). Prior to that, I too had lag errors. BTW, when I did change the pulse/tyre size settings, the next time I checked the tyre size had changed itself (which it is supposed to do). You can pick up the can-bus wiring from the climate control plugs immediately beneath the Navi unit - I do not have any of the wiring diagrams with me now but I try and pick them up at lunchtime and post you details. Where did the unit you have originally come from? (ie do you know what car it was previously fitted to). My understanding is that you should be able to set the pulse per min setting to a range of values to accomodate different vehicle hubs but I'm afraid that I do not know which model will cover what ranges - my belief is that the all MFDs (A, B, D, G, etc) can cover all VW, Skoda, Seat and Ford applications where the unit was an OEM option. Will post my connector details later. Regards.
  3. Further to my last can I point you to the excellent new website at www.vwnavi.com which has just about everything you need to know (or more than you ever thought you could know) about this system. What it can do, what bits you need, how to fit it all together and how to set it up are all covered. Great site - shame I only just found it AFTER I did my install :) They even cover the duff NAVI connection leads that I now have first hand experience of.................. Enjoy :) :lol: :D
  4. Have just retro fitted the Ford RNS MFD using Ebay-sourced items - total cost just under
  5. Even with my MAF/Turbo problems I was getting an indicated 22 mpg with my 115 bhp 1.9 whilst towing my loaded 5.5m Ranger - have not towed since changing out the MAF and restoring power so no "current figure". Your mpg sounds really low unless you have a really heavy right foot and were that Galaxy that zoomed past me and left me standing on the M6 2 months ago B)
  6. Technically I agree, but I did the plots posted above some time ago and achieved similar results which led me to believe that MAF was within tolerance. Another indicator that the MAF was probably ok was that my economy was quite poor - I believed that if the MAF was faulty and was delivering less fuel than really was required (ie leaner in petrol terms), then the economy would probably not show any change (reduction in fuel going in due to MAF being balanced roughly by the increase in fuel due to harder driving in trying to get reasonable performance). Anyway, in this particular instance I became a little disillutioned with VAG-COM (or more accurately my ability to interpret it) - you will recall that earlier on I was absolutely certain from VAG-COM's evidence that the TMAP was at fault! I then decided to go with the balance of historical evidence that there is in this excellent forum and to change the MAF on spec given that
  7. See my final post - the MAF was the cause of my problem!
  8. Final update! Had a pig of a journey from Cambridge to just north of Perth last weekend and back - total just short of 1,000 miles by the end of the weekend ;) Weather was foul - torrential rain and more importantly, the Galaxy was not happy :( Power was down, top speeds were limited (particularly on hills) and gear changes (AG5 autobox) were very lumpy (wrong speed/load). Anyway, although the turbo did not trip (and it didn't trip again whilst shed-dragging last week :) ) something had to be done. In desperation I went to my local Fraud garage and ordered a new (exchange) MAF sensor (
  9. See my earlier posts on resettable intermittent power loss. Despite some good advice and help from SeatKid and GSMGuy I still have not got to be bottom of my problems. I spent the earlier part of the week shed-dragging again and the fault did not reoccur! GSMGuy has solved his problem - he's sold his Galaxy! Good Luck
  10. OK you guys - for those of us on limited budgets with 215/55 R16 tyres fitted, are there ANY reasonably cheap tyres out there? Best quotes that I have at present is a "budget" tyre at
  11. Your right - the red collar is a tell-tale indicator but it does prevent the plug from working loose as it is only held in place by the friction of the o-ring seals. However, I could not manage to save my old one and I think the new one from my local Fraud garage only cost 55p + VAT or something like that! (I was reckless and bought all new items, washers, plug etc). My advice is that as the sealing washers are aluminium, you can very easily reuse. The plug is reuseable, the only thing you need to buy is the oil and the red locking collar. Job only takes about 20 mins to drain and re-fill. Hope thats of help. Peter
  12. Oh come on - someone must have an opinion :huh: or better still - KNOWLEDGE :huh: Having a shed to drag (with a dicky turbo) I'm kinda of interested :huh:
  13. My copy of ELSA Win works OK off Ebay - install is VERY complex as it appears to be the full dealer's setup with registered users databases, etc. Will try to print out full list of vehicles covered but it is not an easy thing to get at - can easily check for a specific vehicle so will do Golf Mk II check later tonight and post. Mine cost me
  14. In trying to get to the bottom of my recent problems I got a copy of the VAG equivalent to TIS - ELSA Win. It comes on 2 DVDs and an installation CD (available off Ebay) and it is far superior to TIS. Not only does it use the same VAG-COM codes but it has more diagrams and test specs. Disadvantage is that you have to feed it spoof Sharan details to call up the relevant info. Overall, I suggest that this is also an essential! You still need TIS for the bulletins and certain Ford specifics, but ELSA Win is fantastic.
  15. Mike - have to go to Bristol tomorrow at 06.30 (and I HATE early starts). Will try to get it in the post together with the manual as discussed soonest. Peter
  16. Sorry Guys for delay in posting - under the weather and THUMB! On Friday a new TMAP was waiting for me (still don't know cost until my local crew settle up their invoices). Anyway, popped it on (2 minute job) and reran VAG-COM to look at pressure plots. Exactly the same form and shape as before - increasing split and significant diversion at 3000 rpm. Much DEPRESSION. Anyway, took it for a spin on Sat morning with laptop hooked up and daughter mointoring/controlling for me. I recollect that the VAG manuals said peak boost at 3000 rpm in 5th gear should be of the order of 2200 mbar. On the driveway under no load I was getting nowhere near that level of boost. To cut a long story short, the plot as we were driving was a revealation - actual was faithfully following demand with only minor variations except where there was obvious turbo-lag eg, after accelerating hard you suddenly lift off the right foot and the turbo will obviously overshoot. I won't post the full plot - there is over 20 mins of recording as I drove up and down the A14. Trouble was, if you think about it, 3000 rpm in 5th gear equals 90 mph and the best I could achieve between traffic and the speed cameras was less than this (sorry officer but I cannot positively confirm........). Conclusions? My fault was different from GSMGuy's in that the turbo only cut-out on hot days after towing a caravan for nearly an hour (with the air-con on) - it has never happened under normal driving. I suspect that I have replaced a perfectly serviceable TMAP with another serviceable item after allowing myself to get too hung-up over VAG-COM. It has it uses (eg fault codes) but the problem comes when you start to diagnose things with only limited info. It will be difficult to replicate the conditions under which my snag arose in the near future - I just cannot spare the time (and she who is to be obeyed is getting grumpy). To complete the post for anyone else looking at these parameters, the ECU max demand was 2200 and my average peak measured was in the order of 2200 - 2300, HOWEVER, I have measure instantaneous peaks of 2600 but these were always on the overun. Peter
  17. Check out seatkid's excellent post at: Reference Guide for Turbo Boost Problems and Vacuum Pipes :rolleyes:
  18. Update :D Done the TMAP test as described in my last post and RESULT - Duff TMAP sensor :D :D :D (please see graph below) It did almost exactly as it said in the manual, dropping to 340 mbar before rising to match and equal the atmos reading. Interesting, that it was not too constant prior to unplugging it as well. Anyway - it is HISTORY :D Problem is my local crew could not come up with one at any of the factors. Local Bosch main agent could get one at
  19. Hi - just caught your post. Had an interesting snag with my rear wiper recently :rolleyes: Given I don't use it very often I did not know when it stopped working - also rear fog lights stopped working at some point :D Local garage was adamant that it was a broken cable where it goes through the exposed trunking. Anyway, to cut a long story short, it transpired that a plug on Ford's 12S trailer wiring loom had come adrift. This easily explains the foglights but the wiper?? :( I had done no end of continuity checking, had put a direct earth onto the moto, etc, but still could not get it to work! It a bit like the turbo control being connected to to the brake switch I suppose (makes sense when you understand it but.......), but if you have OEM trailer wiring fitted, check the plugs in the RH wheelbrace pocket - you might be surprised :D If it definitely bust - check out my post on Ebay - the brand new unused motor I bought to replace my "dead" one is up for sale :huh: Wiper Listing
  20. Hi - no news on whether we have got a TMap sensor so far but the day is young :rolleyes: Have been playing with the VAG ELSA Win electronic manual: 2 interesting results. Firstly, max boost at 3000 rpm under driven load should be in the range 1700-2200 mbar. Bit of a performance variation here! If too low, check solenoid valve for charge pressure control (N75) or check vacuum hoses. Otherwise, renew diesel direct injection system control unit (J248) :huh: Don't like the sound of the last! Split between requested and actual boost is supposed to be no more than +/- 50 mbar, ie 100 mbar total split. For the TMap test where the boost pressure is in error, call up block 10 on VAG-COM engine test, disconnect the TMAP sensor and observe zone 3 display. It must briefly fall to 400 mbar and then assume the same value as the elevation sender (zone 2). If it does this, change the TMAP :D If it doesn't make this spec and the wiring checks out, renew the diesel direct injection control unit (J248) :( Full text of TMAP test should follow: TMapTest.rtf
  21. Mike - no price, I'm just going to go for it as this is beginning to bug me! Hopefully, if one of the factors has one I'll be able to try it without buying if my cunning plan works. Will update you tomorrow. I've been racking my brains about what the TMAP sensor actually is. Methinks it is too small to be an actual pressure sensor and I'm wondering whether it is some kind of thermistor, ie a device whose resistance varies with temp. From playing with VAG_COM tonight I know that the ECU is being fed an absolute air pressure figure from another sensor (G93 if I recall correctly from the screen) so this may not be a pressure sensor but a crude flowrate device working on a calculated pressure from the temperature rise induced via the compressor element of the turbine. Anyway, to stop blathering on if the thermistor skin goes porous, its resistance will change (ie drift) from its baseline and this will also vary as it gets hotter in the airflow :angry: It's a thought anyway! Peter
  22. Final view - just a tad gunked up then!
  23. Bugger :angry: ONLY one picture uplifted! Here's the TMAP:
  24. pacificgreen - stop be such a WOOS :( Everyone is welcome - it is how we learn :( Please repost your original message as I did not have time to read it properly as I left the office - pm me it if you want. Sorry for the delay in tonight's update but I've been busy - also, damm PC lost one of my drafts of this message so I'm keeping my fingers crossed :angry: Went for TMAP as promised tonight. Totally gunked up with oil - gave it repeated wash in trich (no carb clean to hand) but it did seem to clean up. Then ran VAG-COM again and logged/plotted results. In general terms the plot remains of the same form - increasing excessive boost vs demanded boost with speed. HOWEVER, max boost is lower at top revs and if anything, this time it blips almost perfectly in time with the demand - a much more faithful and responsive picture :blink: On the strength of this, I'm going for a TMAP change tomorrow - I note that as well as the VAG part no (038 906 051B) there is also a Bosch Pt No (0 281 002 399). My local crew will try the factors and if they have stock, will let me have it on a trial or return basis :( :( :( If this works, here's some pictures of the VAG-COM plot and the oiled-up TMAP sensor:
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