pdaly

Symptoms suggest engine related as it only happens under heavy load, regardless of gear or speed. Otherwise it runs smooth. I did see a video online showing similar noise in similar acceleration and it turned out to be a faulty injector causing it to misfire upon hard acceleration, but fine on idle. I’m hoping to try plugging in the elm32 with forscan to see if there’s any errors and check the graphs on the injectors. I’ll double check the turbo pipes too.

I have a strange problem with the galaxy.... when you put your foot down and accelerate hard, there is a strange loud noise coming from the centre/left hand side of the engine block. Cannot hear it when at standstill, only when under load. So it’s hard to determine the precise location. It happens at any speed, in any gear. ....foot down, turbo kicks in and the noise is there from approx 1700rpm all the way up to the redline. The best way to describe the noise is that it’s growling. It sounds like a golf ball rattling/resonating in the air ducts (low pitched rattle/rumble and someone’s taken off the air filter cover (deep echo rush of air). In my mind it sounds like the turbo is rattling like hell or a pulley is slightly loose and vibrating as I put my foot down. I have taken the engine cover off, manually inspected the turbo pipes, can’t see any splits, tried to feel underneath the pipes, no spilts as far as I can feel. Also checked air filter box, ensured ducting connected and foam padding fitting correctly around intake. Anyone know what might cause this noise? I did read that maybe turbo spindles are worn. Or injector issue. Or even engine mounts. But to be honest I’m scratching my head with this one as there is nothing I’ve researched that points to anything obvious. The car is a 2007 2.0 tdci galaxy with 150k on the clock and has barely had any issues in the last 10 years except for corrosion in cooling fan cable and lights blowing more frequent than normal.

I had the system re-gassed (special offer £20, so worth a try as a troubleshooting step). They said it wasn't completely full before they started but it wasn't terribly low either. The purple wire seems to disappear under the engine bay fuse box and I can't tell where it comes out. Does anybody here know where it goes to? I'd really like to check continuity first before I start chopping things up. Steveeeee, it took me ages to research to make sure I knew what I was doing, but it worked, this is what you need to know... Remove Left wheel arch and mudflap (a few screws and plastic clips). No need to remove wheel, but it would give you more space. Behind the bumper, in the wing (under headlight), you'll see a white plastic box. Unclip that white cover (clips off at bottom of box) you'll see a metal security guard, there's 1 tamperproof bolt. you can inscrew it 1 of 3 ways: drill hole with 3.5mm drill, then use no.20 torx driver to unscrew. (didn;t work for me) hacksaw a slot across bolt and use flat screwdriver (didn;t work for me) using hammer and flat screwdriver, tap across the bottom edge of bolt to start unwinding the bolt (that worked) Once unscrewed, you can remove the metal guard (slides towards you a little) There are 3 wiring loom connectors, grey (nearest,) brown (middle) and blue (furthest/towards front of car) There are 2 violet wires (1 in grey and 1 in blue) the one in the blue connector read 3.8volts (i think its supposed to be 4.4) and then 12v when engine/aircon switched on. It is this cable that you need. The other cable was reading tiny voltage (0.1v) and I think that is for the power steering angle sensor.I tested both ends for continuity and there was definitely a break in the cable. so rather than tracing the break in an old cable, I sliced into both ends with a new cable to create continuity and once I reset the DTC, the fan worked. So I cut the cable and permanently replaced the cable with a new one and it has now been working perfectly all week.

SOLVED (the hard way): Garage didn't have time to diagnose Air Con as we were going away on hols. But they did a full recovery/refill of fresh air con refrigerant. However we broke down the following day as we were leaving to go on hols. Car overheated. caught it in time, and attached cooling fan directly to car battery... RAC and Garage said to carry on with it wired like that until we source the fault. The ODBII reader was a waste of money... bought another (ELM327), and it gave me the dreaded P0691 error.... So it was either a faulty PCM, violet wire or Fan ECM. I finally traced it to the violet wire from the Fan module to the PCM. Rather than open up the wiring loom, I've hardwired a new cable to replace the purple wire. All sorted now. Fan working fine and air con nice and cold... shame the heat wave has gone and its now started raining!!!!

I bought a foxwell NT204 off amazon for £26 works ok....but reported 0 DTC's with my air con /fan problem. It runs well with live monitors

I've got a 2007 MKIII Galaxy Ghia and the air con will not work which looks as though it's caused by the cooling fan. With the air con on, the vents are pumping out warm air. It's cooler with ac off. I understand that the PCM won't switch on the air con compressor unless the radiator cooling fan is running. To test the cooling fan, using the on board diagnostics, I've watched the engine temp increase to 108'c whilst fast idling the engine. I read that 104'c and the fan should kick in. The fan refused to start. I tested the fan by unplugging above the fan controller and feeding 12v across it and the fan ran no problem at all. I plugged in a OBD2 reader and it reported no DTC's It's pointless testing the compressor unless I can get the cooling fan to work. Maybe the fan is stiff? And normal running voltage is not strong enough to start it?? Any advice please?

Hi, Alternator belt snapped on our 2007 MkIII Galaxy whilst driving on holidays (it's done 130K miles). Wife was driving it (I was at home) and she says that the power steering was heavy, lights flashing everywhere on dashboard, etc. The emergency breakdown guys (AA) came and replaced the belt for her, everything is working fine now except for the air conditioning. It seems the air con will not switch on. It is now pumping warm air throughout the vehicle. i'm worried that the snapped belt may have caused the compressor to fail? It was working fine previously. Any Ideas? Thanks in advance.

Hmmm! I'm now wondering if those codes are just the Firmware version???

I've recharged the Air con, only to find that it made a bit of difference, but not much. I have noticed that when the Air Con is on, the large Cooling fan on the front radiator is on constantly running (full blast after I've had the air con on for a while), when you switch off the AC button, the fan switches off. I;ve run an Air Con diagnostics check and this is what happened.... On the climate control I pressed the following buttons: Holding ‘OFF’ and ‘FOOTWELL’ for two seconds then pressing ‘AUTO’ – the fan speed indicator cycled up and down for a few times then the whole Air Con screen lit up and stayed like this. Pressing any button resumes to normal mode. Holding ‘OFF’ and ‘FOOTWELL’ for two seconds then pressing ‘A/C’ – this resulted in the display cycling through codes ‘77 DO’, ‘6F 04’ and ‘00 (with nothing on the LHS display)’. Pressing any button resumes to normal mode Holding ‘OFF’ and ‘FOOTWELL’ for two seconds then pressing ‘FOOTWELL'– this resulted in the whole Air Con screen lit up and stayed like this. Pressing any button resumes to normal mode. Does anyone know what these error codes mean??

opened all vents and front windows checked temps on a cloudy evening so that the sun/shade didnt affect the ambient readings.

All sorted! It's needed a full bottle of refill to fix the problem. The temperature has gone down and the cabin is nice and chilly. The air vent is now reading 3

i'm going to wait till tonight, when the sun sets so that the ambient temps not affected by direct sunlight/shade (what is classed as ambient temp when the car is stood in direct sunlight, but air con is in the shade :wacko: ), then I can take a true reading and top it up to the correct PSI . Here's a chart that EZ Chill have on their american website... http://idqusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Temp-pressure-chart-33776F1.jpg http://idqusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/r134apc1.jpg My hand on the vents... it just feels cool B) , not chilly. Old Honda CV-V was nice and chilly. Wife's Peugeot 307 Estate can get freezing (smaller cabin, smaller windows). Galaxy is like a greenhouse on wheels. ...but a fast one!

Yeah! ...I had forgotten to do that. So I re-checked the pressure and its approx 10% low (30psi @ 25'C outside air temp) so I'll recharge it and see. The Galaxy air con has been very poor from day one - it has the dual zone climate control and that works fine when one of us wants 24'C and the other wants 21'C, but if we both want 'LOW', the cabin only feels like 19'C.

I've got an EZ Chill recharge kit for my old car and was looking to recharge my 2007 2.0 Tdi Galaxy Ghia as it's not coping with this mini heatwave. With the Air Con on max speed & min temp & recirculate, it only slightly cools the cabin after about 30 mins of use, and even then we can't get it to cool the cabin to a nice temp, instead we have to direct teh air vents directly onto our faces (rear passengers just have to suffer the heat). When I test the air temp coming out of the vents (thermomenter placed on the vents) it can reach 7'C but it doesn;t have much impact with the rest of cabin air temp. (I put this poor performance down to a large cabin and large windows) I had it recharged 10 months ago and the air con is used all year round. I've changed the pollen filter (OEM) 1 week ago, but the air con is still pretty lame. I understand that everyone says don;t bother doing a DIY recharge... but seeing as I have the EZ Chill Trigger Dispenser & guage, I thought I'd try this first. I have looked under the bonnet and I have a black capped shrader valve next to the radiator (I assume this is the high-side port), the other port (low-side port) is at the rear of the engine (in the middle) next to the bulk head compartment. When I connected the guage to the low side port, it gave a reading of 100psi (engine switched off). Is this normal? has anyone else had an issue like this before? Any advice would help about recharging, the high pressure or the rubbish cooling of the cabin. Thanks

I've got the same problem. Not the most effective air con & heater. I put it down to the size of the cabin.