Rallim

Yes that's what mine was like. When I first got the car the heater did not work, so I cleared the errors using vag-com and it started to work. Initially it seemed ok, but then it started smoking occasionally, my wife had a similar experience to yours with someone knocking on the window telling her that her car was on fire. :rolleyes: It will probably eventually stop working altogether with errors. If it locks out you will need to have the errors cleared before it will work even after changing the glow plug. Ekta gives the part number as 7D0 963 219, the part number on the AVS website I put a link to states 7M0 963 319, which also shows the BERU part as GH001. Gordon.

I had to change my glow plug for the second time (2 years after the first replacement - premature failure I believe due to the run-on pump brushes being worn out, causing the heater to turn off due to overheating after short time after it fired up in the morning), I tried the dealer in Stafford and they wanted

No its not normal for it to produce smoke, it indicates the glow plug is failing and not hot enough causing incomplete combustion of the fuel. Eventually your booster heater will eventually stop working. Replacing the glow plug should resolve the smoke and all you will be left with is the 'batmobile' turbine noise and hopefully a nice warm car! Gordon. B)

The instrument panel stores the mileage, so if its new it should state 0.0 miles. I think you can change the mileage with VAG-COM if it is within the first 100km. Like you say it seems a bit strange 106k comes up, but as the mileage is not stored anywhere else I guess maybe its not quite as new as you were led to believe, maybe its a return and somebody had already set the mileage. Officially once its been changed or has clocked more than 100km it cannot be modified, but there is software that can, VAG-Tacho springs to mind. I've been through similar experience with mine where the speedo kept failing, I bought an instrument panel off ebay but the speed indication was out, I ended up rescaling the speedo.... :16: Gordon

I don't honestly know if it causes problems when the engine is running. I've found that the booster heater will generally spin up and stay running if you are driving. If the booster heater is not working then the engine really does struggle to reach 90 celcsius... and now I have an oil temperature gauge, the oil temp as well. I'm guessing it assists in keeping the water flowing through the aux heater to keep the aux heater from shutting down thinking the car is upto temp, but also helps prevent hot spots when the engine is turned off. I can't see how in normal running there will be hot spot problems with the engine, after all the 1.9tdi is used in plenty of other vehicles without an auxiliary pump. Hopefully someone who really does know will point us in the right direction... at the moment it irritates me but if it really is causing problems then I will get off my bum and do something about it... ^_^ Gordon...

My run on pump has not worked properly for nearly a year now, you can sometimes still here it turning slowly, it definitely needs the brushes doing. The most noticeable thing in the winter is that it affects the auxiliary heater, I replaced the glow plug in mine over a year ago, it worked fine initially but since the pump has slowly died I've noticed it comes on initially but will turn off after a few mins if the car is standing still, where as originally the aux heater would be going like the clappers whilst I scraped ice off and drove off.... so I think it assists water flow through the heater when you are not moving... maybe :lol: I meant to look at mine this summer but like many jobs it didn't happen!!! Gordon.

The sensors are hidden inside the B column of the doors, taking the grills off of the pillar the sensor unit seems quite big, certainly not like the small individual sensors use in relatively recent after market alarms. However, it may well be that inside the casing a more generic type sensor can be found.... I will take a closer look when there is some daylight to see by!!! Thanks for the response, Gordon. ^_^ eeek - I've just seen the price of a senosr module on EKTA... 96 pounds..... hhmmmm, disconnection may be the answer!!! :(

Has anybody had any experience diagnosing faults with the Anti theft system? When we first got the car 4 years ago it went through a spate that late at night the alarm would go off. I took the vacuum cleaner to the interior sensors and until now it has been fine. Now it has started going off quite randomly, either a couple minutes or several hours after being set. I cleaned the sensors but it does not appear to have helped. Currently I just have to remember to do a double lock to disengage the deadlocks and deactivate the interior sensors which stops the problem (which is why I suspect the interior sensors...) Does anyone know if there are any adjustments that can be made or diagnostic tests done? I looked at ELSA Win but it only talks about installing and removing the interior sensors and not much else... TIA Gordon.

I've managed to modifymy new instrument cluster to correct the odometer error by modifying the 'k' value and changed the scaling of the speedo - both by editing the clusters eeprom data. The only downside is that the cruise is still not happy and still hunts up and down in speed, I think this is because the cluster is still calculating the wrong speed and I've merely rescaled it output... anyway its a least indicating the correct speed and the new cluster speedo works for longer than 10 minutes!! ;) Gordon.

Which software are you considering, VAG-TACHO, VAG-CAN or VAGDashCOM? I was looking at VAG-TACHO but I was not sure if it would work with my new cluster.. I still have not figured out if the cluster is immo2 or immo3 (old cluster part was 7M3 920 920C and the new one 7M3 920 840 KX). I'm tempted to take a gamble on VAG-TACHO. Gordon

I tried the cruise, the first time it did exactly as you described, the next time I tried it seemed smoother but I think your theory is right, I imagine the ECU and the cluster are disagreeing on the speed of the car causing it to hunt... I bought my cluster on ebay as a 'its worth a go' type of thing and 'I can always resell it on ebay if it does not work' to fix my speedo problem (which may be related to the VSS which I still haven't physically located). I did discover in my trawling the net last night that it is a normal thing in Audis and VWs if the speedo stops working then the fuel guage 'buffering' stops working which explains why the fuel gauge would go crazy when the speedo stopped. I took it for a 15 mile drive last night which is normally more than enough distance / time for the speedo to fail but it kept on working, however, it has been known occasionally to go for a quite a distance before failing so I am also not convinced its solved my original speedo issue. I'm also mindful you are unable to adjust the mileage on a cluster if it has done more than 100km. I can see me putting the original back in, it pains me as I like the new clusters extra dials, car door mimic and tank range but thats the 'small boy and toys' side of me coming out! :rolleyes: I did read a couple of instances of reflashing clusters (mainly golfs), you just want to make sure you can backup the original in the new cluster before downloading the old cluster image. Gordon.

Well I installed my instrument cluster last night, initially the trip computer was not working but that was because the navigation option had been enabled, I recoded the instrument panel, similar number to yours 13401 and that now works. I'm now left with exactly the same problem, the speedo over reads, 40mph at 30mph, 80mph at 60mph. I am unable to change the impulse multiplier / gear box engine combination to anything other than 1. :lol: I looked around last night on the internet but only found out bits and pieces, so I think I will wander down to the dealers tomorrow and ask if it can be recoded to work with my gearbox.... I suspect the answer will be no (even if it is possible!) but it worth a shot.... :angry2: The other possibility may be a pulse modifier which apparently people fit to cars to correct speedo inaccuracies when they put bigger wheels on... Gordon.

ElsaWin in the Workshop manual section troubleshooting the 'combi-instrument' has a section on calibrating odometer / speedo using the the VAG tool, it was indicating that the multiplier can only be changed if you use unlocking code from the dealer as required for immobiliser recoding / mileage change etc. Gordon.

Out of interest and also because I've just purchased an Instrument Cluster for my Sharan (an attempt to solve non-working speedo (after 15mins of driving) with over active fuel guage which beeps low fuel every corner with less than half a tank of fuel. When you transplanted the panel did you have to recode the immobilizer? I fear if the panel does work it will probably do similar things to yours with regard the speedo reading as the one I bought is a 160mph gauge and the existing one 140mph... Regards, Gordon

The drivers side rear calliper handbrake lever on mine has stiffened up a few times now, you can tell by the handbrake becoming looser and also the heat coming off the rear wheel! When it first happened I did undo the 13mm nut to try and remove the lever to loosen it but the lever did not want to budge. I had more success 'waggling' the lever back using the nut to free it up so it would release properly. I have bought a set of callipers off ebay from a 3 year old galaxy but the handbrake hasn't misbehaved for a while so they remain on standby.... (at one point it got to the stage where I had a 13mm spanner readily accessible in the boot to free it up again when it occurred!!) I think even if you did manage to remove the lever you would only gain a little more access, I think as per the previous post, the only way to do it properly is take the calliper apart. Gordon.