Steve_Mk1_2.3A

Hi, Do you have a list of the issues? We might be able to remote diagnose and let a local sort that out for you? I worked for many years at a Ford main dealer and specialised in auto electrics and comfort and convenience systems - I might be able to help. Cheers Steve

I would, using VAG-COM reset the transmission adaptations. There is a couple of ways to do that but a reset and try to drive again and then look for the flare ups. But without codes from VAG-COM you're stabbing in the dark. There are various issues with fixes for the 5 speed box but all involve a scan before you proceed or you'll be hunting for it for ages! Can you get it scanned? VAG-COM and lead from eBay £15 well worth it. Regards, Steve

No & No. Are the quick answers - the TDIs have differing internal ratios for the auto boxes. And more TDIs have the AG5 box not the AG4 that most 2.3's have. You'll need to source the correct box. what's wrong with it? Proper broken or just playing up?

Yeah; could be fluid level or the valve body playing about. If you have VAG-COM you can monitor the gearbox as you whizz about and look for anything strange going on. This is especially true if you can make it faulty more or less on demand. VAG-COM is not much off eBay for the lead and software and with a Galaxy a worth while investment. Change fluid then have a see what she does. Steve

Sounds very much like RELAY 27 (30) - there is a FAQ on here for changing one. Did my Mk1 recently took about 40mins end to end to change it out. Cost about £10 from euro car parts or about the same from Fords. Worth changing just in case ... other bits do cause trouble but not as much as that relay. Steve

Clear the codes first then go for a run - you've got some standard "gone wrong" codes there. If a code comes back concentrate on that one. Probably a G68 sensor - try that one first - there are tests you can do in VAG-COM to see it's output signal. MBs then go to grp 5 or 7 and look for the G68 / VSS sensor - it should show "data" when the car is moving. If not then that's probably the reason. All sensors are external bar the oil temp one and are fairly easy to change. HTH Steve

Hi, Scan the transmission with VAG-COM - the ELM reader won't do the gearbox. Look at the codes then come back here and post them to us complete. 1st & 3rd is normally LOS or low or no fluid! If the trans is in permanent LOS mode then clear the codes then immediately go for a drive - if it appears normal then wait until the fault occurs and scan again. If it is still the same after clearing the codes rescan and see if they've come back. Common faults are the wiring by the big plug at the back of the battery and the loom to the g/b from the car - that breaks under stress and water gets into the g/b multi-plug that causes the symptoms you mention. Scan and report back. HTH Steve

Hi, Ford dealer for the key batteries they are dead cheap. They can order you a manual by the VIN or REG. The back doors have the child locks on - look at the door latch when open - you'll see a little lever - move it to the other place it goes and the doors will work fine. The radio code a dealer or some 3rd party places can get for you from the radio sticker or in some cases the VIN. HTH Steve

Sounds like someone at sometime has enabled anti hijack - there are two options - one key on doors lock and the other key in - car 15kph+ doors lock - You can deprograme it with VAG-COM if you don't like the feature. From memory the wiring is - to lock/unlock so a + from the ing being turned on would not induce the car to lock normally. And yes you can program the remote control part yourself - but the PATS needs to be done by a key cutter - FORDs charge a lot a third party will be cheaper. Steve

Hi, Your best bet is to get it from VW it is fully synthetic and the current VW number is G052171A2 - that's for the 6 speed box and is recommended now. HTH Steve

Hi, The whoop squeaky noise is normally the box sound when they are getting on and the fluid is in not to great shape! The clunk can be lots of things - the valve bodies do wear (well the pistons etc.) and this causes the pressure to leak about the box - other things cause that as well but the VB with time begins to wear - and you'll have differing faults depending on what is worn. A good trans specialist can probably tell you if fluid alone will help or you need some more bits. A VB overhaul is not mega money - nor is a torque converter. The box complete however is expensive - they were new and they are now! But they are very fixable. Try a scan & fluid and see how you get on. Steve

Hi, If that's right and the engine was steamed cleaned then you have a good chance that water has got into the connector behind the battery - the big square one or the one on the gearbox - they are notorious for trouble once they get wet. The worst case is the loom is needed as the pins corrode off. All very fixable. Clear the codes then go for a drive and see what you get. You can if you have VAG-COM see the transmission in action is you use the measuring blocks option you can monitor the shirt solenoids as you drive. Fords TIS CD has a chart showing which ones are in use per gear - you can then compare VAG-COM with the list and confirm if one is not working right. But #1 do the wiring first. Steve

My bad! NSF indicator is where the pump hides out!

I think a lot of people confuse the remote programming with the PATS programming. A new remote key MUST be programmed for PATS - or the car wont start - and then programmed for the remote control to work - that is what dealers do - they do the PATS then the remote - hence the unearthly charge! A key cutter will clone you key to get the PATS code - therefore negating the programming at the car - a dealer will add the key and any others to the PATS system. The key cutter will just clone a working one - which is a cheat but does work! The remote flashing but not sending is common - most tend to be buttons that have failed and yes a lot of money from a dealer to get a new one. Mind you VW do a flip one for £103 that works a treat with the Galaxy ... Regards, Steve

Hi, There is a pipe in the OSF wing space that goes. Take out OSF headlamp and you'll see it :-) Fix / replace as you see fit. The pumps do go ... but not as much as the pipes! HTH Steve