mark.aa

the instruments come out easy,just 4 screws,2 in the trim 2 onthe clocks,2 plugs in back of clocks,lower the steering colum and pull out as far as it will . you could just drill a small hole in ecu case ~(1mm)

bought my 98 galaxy 110tdi 4 years ago with no climatronic cold a/c working. no gas in system. had to change both the small and big alloy a/c pipe that run around the back of the engine bay firewall under the engine mount along the inner wing and down to the dryer filter, the pipes had corroded from the outside at the bottom of a u bend were they both pass under the brake servo, water collected there and drips off there,and corroded them through. fitted new filter new. big job, had to take whole front off the car to fit the pipes (bumper.front pannel with all rads headlights,)air filter. ford main stealer wanted some thing like

ok just tested in out , worked perfectly.revs through to 4600rpm and no limp home mode. the only thing i did extra was to drill a very small hole in the ecu alloy case (1mm) to let out any pressure that may leak out of boost hose in the future, as i am running with a red i tunning plug and play pump tuning kit,110bhp tdi to 135bhp kit that may be causing the extra boost to leak out of the hose due to highter than factory boost. noticed too that i used to have a cold start fault that was almost as if the glow plugs werent working,used to crank for ages (10 sec +)then start with a big cloud of grey smoke, this has gone too . hope this helps somebody else with a mk1 galaxy 110 tdi going into limp home mode.

had the fault with the turbo allways shutting off under load in third gear always above 3000rpm only, then would be ok if i restarted engine and kept engine speed bellow 3000rpm. when i took the engine ecu apart there was air pressure inside the ecu case.it released as i lossened the case screws. put it back in the car and it worked ok. took it back out again and it had pressure inside it again! think the rubber hose to the map sensor in ecu was leaking boost presssure inside case causing the map sensor to miss read. as i think the map needs normal atmoperic pressure to reference the boost pressure to. i opened the ecu (4 torx 15 screws) pulled out the board . inside there is a small rubber hose that goes from the ecu case to the black plastic map sensor i then cut the ends of the rubber hose back incase they had streched and put a small smear of epoxy glue around the map sensor seams to seal it incase that had a air leak. the bosch numbers on the map sensor were 0273 003 270 250kpa to remove the ecu from the car the intruments have to be removed,2 screws on the trim 2 on the clocks then 2 multi plugs ecu is under the steering support. disconnect vac pipe on top l/h side of ecu first. remove the security torx screw from the bracket that stops the ecu from being unpluged(t20 hollow tip)hidden between the vic pipe nipple on ecu case and the multiplug. now push the ecu plug clip forwards and plug will slide away from ecu. then you can access the other 2 torx 20 security screws that were under the plug

vain accuator moved about 15mm.

my mk1 wipers are curved to meet the bottom of the screen.bosch ones from halfords straight ones hit the screen trim at there ends. i,ve got them on my rear screen and on my wifes scenic and they work great ,no judder and flex to fit the screen great. but they dont do curved ones

when a air mass fail they almost never give of a fault code, they will give a grossy incorrect reading and as long as the ecu gets a reading they will trust its correct. only when its disconnected will it force the ecu to revert to a back up map in its memory to run better. dont use a K&N air filters as eventualy they will leave a oil film on the maf sensor surface and contaminate it . the air flow draws excess oil from new filter. funny that on there web sites Q and A section they make a big thing of saying they dont! fitted a standard paper filter and cleaned the sensor with carb cleaner and mine worked ok. the temp sensor is a common fault on vw range engines of this era. check and clean the loom earth points on the front of the engine block as high resistance from corrision can cause sensor errors. the coolant temp sensors have 4 pin terminals and 2 internal sensors , one for the ecu and one for the temp guage. so it can fail and still read on the dash ok. if the temp is reading wrong it will not fuel correctly,mine stuck at a coolant temp of 23oC mine has a yellow band.should be abile to see it on you old one you can get them from gsf and euro car parts but avoid too cheap ones from ebay as they are very poor copys and dont work properly.epecialy air mass meters. genuine bosch air mass will be

the reason they fail is the locking motors are used from the old MK4 escorts and they were rubbish,they seized one of the few parts that ford brought to the party.(radios 2.0 2.3 engines badges) found this out when i when,t to a vw dealer to get one when my local ford dealer closed ,parts guy brought one out of its box,saw the vw sticker on it and when i rubbed it the ford logo came through. thought is looked familiar!

mines doing the same 98 ghia X manual 110bhp tdi with 218k on the clock. runs fine in first and second but if i give it beans in third above 3000 rpm the turbo shuts down and and its in limp home untill turn off and on, tried the air mass (MAF)from a working friend car.NO checked all vac pipes . sucked on vac pipe to vac actuator on turbo that moves the variable vains and can feel it moving and comming back by itself when vac removed sucked on the vac pipe to the ecu thats well hidden in dash and theres no leak there. even took out the ecu(fun)opened it up and checked the pipe to the map sensor ,it was ok had a fault code for control unit failure 633? so thats why i took the ecu apart. some times it missfires and smokes when the turbo shuts down.when clears hope we both fined the cure,

you may be lucky, had a vw t4 that stripped a timing belt and it was the same 1.9 engine as a galaxy. all it did was burst the hydrolic camshaft follower. it acted as a damper as the valve hit the piston . just changed 2 lifters. the valves go straight down to the pistons so do not bent like other enginges (but still not fully safe) also did the same when i changed the timing belt on my 98 tdi galaxy ghia x at 206k it now on 218k i cranked the engine over while the crank drive pulley was off to centre the timing belt prior to final belt tensioning and the engine started and threw the belt.(it stopped dead) that did 1 lifter at idle , when i put the belt back on and run it, it ran on 3 cylinders and you could feel and hear the compresion blowing back into the air filter box , 1 inlet follower smashed open, i took the cam carrier bearings off and just lifted the cam up as it was cylinder 4 and fitted a new lifter from a breakers yard from seat inca diesel van . ask your garage to take off the cam cover and take out the camshaft and check the cam followers before they take the head off.