bfc1001

would nt it be easier to buy a lower spec diesel then upgrade the spec on it . im guessing by spec you mean the extra s that come with the ghia version ?

short circuit in the door looms?

on the mk 2 its under the front passenger seat (according to haynes anyway, never looked myself!) .it says "to reset the switch ensure ignition is off, and depress the button on the switch. turn the ignition switch to position2 , pause for a few seconds, then turn the ignition switch to position1 " dont know if its relevant to your mk1 but thought it might be of help.

just wondering , has the light never come on for your airbags or is it a fault thats just recently started happening?

dont know about gearbox but if your unsure about your speedo borrow a sat nav which will give you a mph reading and see if both match . if it is wrong the speedo could be the wrong one for your car or it could be gearbox related. not sure where auto s get there speed signal from .

off the top of my head i think the spline on the steering collum is different but someone else on here may know otherwise.

there s no difference really , only trim and body panels. i think the 2.3 engine is exclusive to the ford range and the galaxy auto box is made by ford but everything else is pretty much vw parts.

.the first port of call would be to check the wiring looms into the car door . make sure there s no broken wires . as for your "intermittent key " do the buttons click when you press them ? within the actual switch there s a small concave "popper" what pop s in and out everytime when you press the switch but when broken only pops in so it takes several presses to get a connection. my remote key was the same so i raided an old freeveiw box switch and swapped the concave popper s over. as good as new now.

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/010-019.html hope this helps.

i would say it just needs a re gas. your error message would say short to ground (or words to that effect).both screw fittings work off the same system . the one on the driver s side is for re gassing.

dont know about the number in relation to if it just needs a re gas or the sensor is faulty but u can always take the sensor off and test with a voltmeter . if you get a continuity reading from the plug to the casing of the sensor its faulty . you should only get a reading from the valve only.

just make sure you get your old turbo back off the mechanic s . at least u can find out what a blown turbo looks like plus if it just needs a "clean" at least you ve got a spare sat in the garage.

well ive done it myself to a mk2 tdi so i guess its pretty much the same for a mk1 . you might have to make a couple of looms to wire them up but nothing overly difficult.

i would advise getting a vag com lead from ebay and scanning your car first . it can be a multitude of things causing your problems and its always best to find out the fault yourself before shelling out so much money . just seems a bit odd that he s condemmed the turbo so easily .

used to have a mk 1 and when i bought it the swich that moves the air was broke so even though the dial turned it was nt joined up to the switch . might be worth taking off trim to check . as for blowing cold might be worth checking your water level . if its low u wont get any warm air.