westytwo

I think I have finally fixed my power problem/noisey engine, after changing the MAF, all the vacuum hoses including the one in the ECU, cleaning the EGR and replacing the fuel filter, its looks like the problem was a split wire! The wire in question is connected to a white block on the lower part of the diesel injection pump. The wire which comes off the sensor runs very close to the auxilary belt tensioner harmonic balancer cam (the big silver coloured thing in front of the injection pump). It seems that the wire has been touching the cam and as the cam rocks with the movement of the belt it has worn through the brown wire to the white sensor block thing. I think this sensor might have something to do with the injection timing cause my galaxy sounded like a tank and had no power. Anyway there was just enough wire coming out of the sensor to get a block connecter on. After putting everything back together the engine is now loads quieter and I have constant power/boosting. Jobs a good un, :D just the alternator clutched pulley to change and the bodywork to tackle now. Galaxy diesels are not just a car they are a hobby!!!!! ;)

No I have not got a VAGCOM lead yet, gonna get one off ebay. Any ideas which lead I need? Is checking the timing much of a job? I changed a cambelt on a VW Caddy once and it was never the same again LOL!!!

They usually rev them up hard if they had a high reading or if its been ticking over for a long period the actual test only requires one rev up to 4000 then release not hold it there if its borderline may need to repeat. My local MOT station has a disclaimer warning that it is owners responsibility to ensure cambelt is in good condition and oil level correct before having smoke test. If the belt has only done 10000 I would firstly check the tension on that belt as this is quite critical, if its been fitted to loose it will strip or jump teeth, if its to tight it will whine. Is the bubbles in the line from the tank or the return? The bubbles are definetely coming from the tank. I have checked the fuel line from the tank and it does not appear to have any drips, I would have thought that if the fuel pump can suck air in through a crack while the engine is on, then diesel would seap out when the engine is off wouldn't it?????

Hello all, About a month ago I resolved my boosting / power loss problem. It turned out to be the small pipe inside the ECU which had become brittle. After this was fixed it was like driving a different car and I no longer had the issue of artics overtaking me on hills. However I recently had the car MOT'd since this has been done the engine is very noisy compared to before, it now sounds like an early 90's Transit and again I have no power, just before the MOT the galaxy had just done a 4 hour drive back from Cornwall. I have heard that when diesels are MOT,d they have to be revved hard prior to the emissions test being done is this true and if so is it possible that the timing belt may have slipped a tooth which is causing the problem? The cambelt was replaced about 10000 miles ago. I have also noticed that if you hold the revs at around 2000rpm you can see lots of air bubbles travelling through the clear fuel pipe is this normal? I replaced the diesel filter and rubber O ring less than a month ago. The galaxy is a 110 bhp afn engine.

Just out of interest where did you get a new pulley from and how much was it? Mine is due for a change!!

How difficult is it to remove the Ecu from a 1999 1.9 tdi? I have replaced the vacuum hose to the Ecu but that was not easy due to access. I know need to replace the internal hose inside the Ecu. What holds the Ecu in place and is it difficult to remove? Do you need to remove the whole dash? Any suggestions or tips would be appreciated.

Hi, did that cure your problem when you replaced the internal hose???

Hi Mark, Did you have to remove your dash to get the ECU out? I have replaced all hoses to including the 1 to the ECU but not the internal 1 inside the ECU. It looked like a hell of a job to remove the ECU! How is the ECU fixed to the car is it bolted? Replacing the hose to the ECU was a mission lol! ,but i reckon that might to cure my problem my symptoms are the very similar to yours.

The pipe runs along the bulkhead from left to right as you stand at the front of the car. Remove your scuttle plate (the big plastic thing that spans the width of the engine bay and goes under the wiper mechanism) there should be 3 10mm bolts holding it in place 1 on the left, 1 on the right and 1 in the middle. You wont believe how much more access this gives you. The pipe comes off the bulkhead to the front of the engine onto a solid plastic pipe (black) which drops down onto your turbo intercooler. There will also be a sensor attached to this plastic hose with a wire coming off it so you should be able to identify it. Hope that helps and hope that cures your problem, it did not help on mine but its worth trying.

Will take a photo when its light. Think the wire was all black and about 1 mm in size. Standard size spade connection on the end of it.

I have a female spade connection which is not connected to anything. Its location is at the front of the engine and it seems to be in the same wiring bunch as the wires that go to the oil pressure sensor. Should it be connected to something?

Does anyone know where the needle lift sensor is on a 110 bhp AFN diesel engine as I need to check the associated wiring to the sensor, thanks.

Hi where is the needle lift sensor? Is it on the 3rd injector? Did you have total power loss or did you occasionally get full power? Thanks for your help.

Hi Westytwo usually Vag-com does not detect a fault with a MAF, but the way to check is to disconnect the plug from the MAF and if car runs better then it is the MAF If there is no difference its not the problem. You have not said what the symptoms are, but I had one go on a Fabia (same idea) I removed it from the car, and blew it out with a air-line and refitted it and has been ok since ( I might have been lucky, but cheap enough to try) Radiotwo The problem is intermittent boost with a permanent loss of power, replaced all vacuum hose to the turbo actuator etc and removed and cleaned the egr valve. I have replaced the Maf with a new bosch one, only thing is the new maf has a different code number on it and looks different internally, someone on the forum said they fitted 3 new ones before they got one that worked!