Wez

There is a modification that was done to later models and can be done to all, The pollen filter housing is the most likely cause by all the trouble shooting you have done so far. If you have had a pollen filter change at anytime and bought an none ford part then the likelyhood of this being any good is minimal. The only way of getting the right filter that I am aware of is through Ford unfortunately. The modification to the housing is a frame glued in place and a foam filter added. There is also a check of the air valve and a different carbon filter and resistor pack fitted to the heating fan under the same mod. However it is always worth checking that the filter that you have got fitted is correctly seated first. I had exactly the same problem when I changed my filter for a none Ford part. It was good up until then and has been fine since an original Ford part fitted. Even though I don't like buying direct from Ford it would seem in this case it could work out cheaper than sorting out electrics and rust later on, that is besides the heavy mist on the inside of your screen in the mornings and even worse when it freezes

Depending on the year and model. Mine start from the manifold and feed to a tee-piece near the ABS modulator. From here one side feeds to a vacuum switch solinoid. This in turn feeds under the vehicle to just in front of the nearside wheel. It controls the valve for the rear heating. The other part of the tee-piece feeds through the bulkhead on the passenger side and to the fan/recycle switch. then from here to the heater matrix. As the pressure is equal troughout the systyem it would appear the pressure is low at the manifold. I notice that there is what appears to be a baffle/dampener here and there is a feed to something else, not sure what yet. I tested the valve at the matrix which opens and shuts the vent to the outside by sucking on the pipe at the fan/recycle switch. You can hear the valve shut when you release the vacuum. therefore I know that part works. There seem to be no leaks anywhere, as if you suck at the pipe by the manifold and hold the vacuum for a while it again holds. therefore I can only assume at this time that there is a blockage or leak towards the manifold. Difficult to test this bit. I have a vacuum guage but as I don't know what pressure to expect I can't fault find further.

Even with Xenon bulbs the light is still poor. HID conversion is the only way to go. Easy to do and very effective lighting. I am considering moretta lights converted to HID but not sure how effective these lights are. Anyone out there with Moretta's fitted? what are they like?

I have tinted several vehicles over the years but decided to have a garage do my Galaxy. I will never do another car again. The professionals are the only way to go. Quick and fantastic results. I recently had to remove the front side window film as they changed the law on that but all the windows from the B post back can be done. Mine has been on for over 7 years now and there isn't a fault on it. I have seen the result of DIY on so many vehicles and would not consider it worth the bother. results are rubbish to fair. Never seen a perfect job done DIY ever. Plus you will get a warrenty with the pro's too

I am having problems with my heating system which I cannot find an answer to here or on the ford TIS disk. I have no recycle air facility. I have checked the vacuum at the engine and fan switch. There is air sucking at the pipe but seems weak. If you suck on the pipe which feeds the control module for the flap in the heater matrix housing you can hear the valve shut when you release the pipe. But this does not happen when everything is together the switch is operated. I have also checked the vacuum feed to the additional heater valve and solenoid. Again there is vacuum but feels weak and it would appear that this valve is always open to let the hot water to the matrix in the rear of the vehicle. Does anyone know how strong the vacuum needs to be to work this system? Has anyone else had this problem?