antzatgalaxy

Just wanted to confirm (as I think that this was the original question), that 15" rims do not fit on the front of the galaxy MK2 due to brake assembly. I would not try and "resolve" this. You can get them on the back... but suggest, as others have, that this is not your ride issue.... Low profile tyres are fitted on 17" rims. Mine has 225/45R17 94Y XL on, though still wouldn't say they where quite the rubber band type... Wheels came with car... Like you I also have 15" rims in garage.... why can't I let go......

Hi, may as well replace run on pump if you've ordered it, but I managed to replace the brushes in mine with a set of ebay for peanuts. The dimensions of brushes and the repair is given in the FAQ. As you have to remove the pump anyway, it's not much further work. I'm pretty sure there is flow through the aux heater without the run on pump and that the Aux heater it is capable of regulating the temperature (flame), hence any reduced coolant flow would not matter - Happy to be corrected, but pretty sure it would work even if run on pump were completely removed (bypassed with a bit of copper tube). I'm saying this as during the period my run on pump wasn't working, I'm sure the aux heater carried on working. The White smoke is unburnt diesel, but it needs heating to produce this. You say the error codes doesn't return after clearing, but clearly it must at some point, or you don't have a problem with the code (historic?). Does the code return some time after running? Normally white smoke is associated with a flame out error code, which happens when the glow plug starts to fail. Glow plug fails to maintain ignition, fuel continues to be pumped in, aux heater shuts down with flame out error. I believe it takes three flame out errors before it shuts the aux heater down for good until code is cleared. Of course next time it ignites, there is excess diesel in the flame chamber (hence white smoke). To much of this and the whole unit eventually bungs up and will need a good clean out when you replace the glow plug. Replacing the glow plug is not such an easy job.... However, even without the Aux heater, the engine temperature will raise to normal temperature (needle straight up) within about 20 minutes if driving around, even in winter - (probably not if just left idling). So you may have further investigations ahead.... When you say the Aux heater fires up as normal, is the exhaust from the aux heater really hot? Might the lack of temperature difference between inlet and outlet pipes actually be because the Aux heater is not heating the coolant, rather than no flow?

Having just had the same problem on my Gal, I thought I'd add a further solution. On mine, the latch just wasn't latching - either when shutting or using a screwdriver with the boot open. I recalled from before I could use the screwdriver to simulate the post and latch the lock and then release the lock by lifting the boot handle. Now what I was finding was that with the boot shut, I could still lift the boot open and the alarm wasn't operating (i.e. it would lock all the doors, fail to arm and then open all the doors!). If I leaned on the boot hard enough I could make the alarm think it was closed and it would arm, but I could still lift the boot open - and the alarm would then go off. So if you can use a screwdriver to simulate the post, but can then still pull the lock open (i.e. it hasn't latched), then this may help. What I've discovered having removed the lock from the car is that the latch mechanism is contained within the lock, so you can't get to it because the lock is rivoted together. However, the manual release is visible at the back of the lock as an arm that sticks out. There are two arms, one is hooked up to the boot servo, it's the other one. You can unscrew and remove the servo to give more fiddle room (if you've removed the lock). If this release arm seems to be unsprung (freely moves back and forth), then the latch inside is stuck open. To remove the lock, follow FAQ's on removal of boot trim and undo the three torx screws around the lock mechanism on the outside and remove the lock from the inside. You can then unplug the connector and prise out the switch (careful as it is only held in by plastic nobbles, which are likely to break) to completely free the lock from the two cable sets. However, you may be able to avoid all of this and do it in situ from the outside.... Effectively the lock mechanism is held together by three rivots and all the moving parts rotate or move on these rivots posts. The latch mechanism rotates around one of these rivot posts. It is spring loaded, but clearly friction is now greater than the force of the spring (It's not the spring visible if you have removed the lock, that is the servo return spring). I'm betting at this point there is a bit of corrosion around the lock and the plastic coating on the latch mechanism is worn or damaged? So crap has got in there. So now what you need to do is free up the latch, So yes dumping a whole load of WD40 or Silicon oil in there may help (though you'll probably miss it), but you'll need to work it to free it up. To do this - as you can barely see inside the lock - you'll need to use a small screw driver and with the lock pushed into the closed position (with a larger screwdriver), push the small screwdriver inside the lock just to the outside of the C shaped post hole to where you might expect something to latch the arm of the C shaped mechanism. There should be enough play to push the latch further open and back so it eventually springs all the way back - It's not a large movement. You'll know it's sprung back because the lock will be latched. A bright light or a narrow beam torch will help you see inside the lock. Once it's moving, a good flush with an oil spray in the right place to clean out some of the crud should help, but suggest you use the small screw driver to ply it with lithium grease.

Had same thing on mine, it was track rod ends, but significantly drivers side seemed to have the greatest influence on steering judder (only felt on accelerating and breaking).

Yes, just head lights and breaks. On until you press brake, comes on again with head light failure when you turn head lights on.

I'm glad I eventually found this post, I found a lot of posts referring to erratic rear wiper movement, not parking correctly, starting on its own etc. In my case, the wiper would set off as soon as I turned on the ignition and stop after a few cycles, but not in the park position. If I selected rear wipe on the stork, the story was similar, it would go continuously for a bit then stop out of position, so in order to get it to go again I'd have to flick it off and on again on the stork. After a week of so running on a dry windscreen, the wiper blade was shot! Most posts seem to point to wiring faults in the rubber boot on the tail gate, but on mine in the face lift version, the wires are in cased in a flexible trunking as well (I guess to solve this worn cables issue). So this post gave me the confidence to attack the wiper motor itself and YES that was the problem. Grease in the mechanism eventually gets through to the electrical contacts on this control wheel. All that was required was a quick (but thorough) clean (no sanding) of the copper track and copper contacts and all was working again. You do have to get to the motor by taking the boot door card off, and get the motor out and apart, but THIS is the solution...

xotas is right, at least on the MKII, press the lock on the remote control twice in quick succession. The Door LED should Flash once remain off for a few seconds, then it will return to the normal flash. However, the sensors are off. I believe the double dead lock is also off though (car is still locked). If you press the lock on the remote again, the car will double dead lock (you'll hear it) and sensors come on. I had an issue with rear windows (manual crank) dropping down over time, could be one of these is slightly open. Also check there is no movement in car from unretracted seat belts, loose sun-visors etc. mine has only ever gone off twice, once when the sat nav fell off the window and once when the glove box popped open (stuffed too full!). Is your car parked on the road? fast passing car can sometimes set it off if too close when car rocks.

Hi Chris, I've taken a few videos of the tachometer while attempting starting and will try and post one that is an "average" start once I work out how to reduce it to a reasonable size. Sometimes the needle kicks more than others etc. As soon as the engine starts, the tachometer behaves as normal, steady as a rock,engine idle speed is fine, and engine response is normal (as is everything once engine is going). On turning the engine over, the engine can eventually fire a few strokes and then go back to turning over or then start. Or it can start first opportunity it catches after a period of turning over. Generally I've found if it tries to catch (fires the odd stroke) and doesn't, I get a better result if i turn the ignition off and immediately turn back on. This second start usually has a much higher success rate and starts earlier. But whose to say I'm not inventing rituals and superstitions now! It always eventually starts (so far) and I've not managed to flatten the battery yet, but I have taken it out and charged it a few times now. I will check the fuel supply at the filter and let you know, I need pointers like this Thanks. I have a relay 109 on the way (fairly cheap from VW), mainly because I couldn't track the info you've just given me and didn't really fancy bridging it in the fuse box, so thank you for that, I'll check power at fuses. I'd like to check the connections at ECU, but haven't figured out how to get the plugs off. Also, alternator wire and interior fuse supply wire in main fuse feed box are fine with normal use. But last night I turned EVERYTHING on and drove for 10 minutes and both were then very HOT near the feed box. In idle with everything on, only the interior fuse supply wire got hot first near the feed box. This has got to be contact resistance at the fuse connection so I'll give contact surface a clean here too as I only cleaned up the alternator cable before. Pick up new fuse box next week, but not going to wait till then in case this has nothing to do with it. VCDC-lite cable on way too, so hopefully be able to see actual output from engine temperature sensors etc. Thanks for sticking with me.

Mines a 55 plate but registered 2006 - I just don't mention that now. I used the Dealer to get the Cam belt and service done and managed to get the MOT and Ford Assist thrown in. Only did it cause they included a warranty on the cam belt - whether, should this be required, it is any good or not? With the European break down cover included it worked out quite competitive on price - but not on service... While I was there I went to the Parts department for one of those battery cover twist locks. "sorry sir, we only supply those in packets of 50" - really? Who needs 50 in one go? "if we could source them singly we would" - Well how I about I buy 1 packet and sell you 49 single units? "---silence---"

I'm going to replace the fuse box now I've found it to be in this condition. However I must stress, that it really isn't that badly damaged. Only the Alternator cable connection to the fuse showed any signs of deterioration. I'd describe it as rusted. I've cleaned this up for now (and replaced the fuse I broke). The inner copper of the cable itself is not heat tempered, but I'll replace this anyway. All the other connections were fine (very low resistance). I've felt the cable several times and it doesn't get hot, but then I didn't feel it before so have no indication that this is an improvement. I'm clueless to understand how the Alternator connection would have any effect on things, except in not charging the battery, which it was still is doing. However... After putting it all back together, it started a lot worse than the average bad start. Then, on thinking I'd record a video of the Tachometer needle, in front of the camera it started first time! Hasn't done that since the problem began. It was however a random occurrence. I live in hope of more random occurances.... I've convinced myself that the engine does turn over slightly faster the second attempt I try and start it and when it usually starts. I've also managed to hear the rear fuel pump, though I had to hang out the door and it did sound more like a the windscreen washer pump than a "squelch". I have heard it before and it sound normal to me. I couldn't get the ECU connections off, didn't want to force anything and couldn't figure it out. There seems to be a plastic bar holding them in that is bolted at one end behind, which I can't get to. Any hints? So for now, I'm replacing the Main Fuse Feed Box, Alternator Wire and Relay 109. Not convinced that any of these will make a difference, but live in hope. Any views on this now being a starter motor problem caused by a dual mass fly wheel disintegration?

The Door LED does not flash any error codes, just the acknowledgement of the pats chip confirm (i.e. comes on and goes out after about a second). I'm not sure I can hear a fuel pump, but then I've never listened for it. It's is probably the run on pump I'm hearing. But I've not noticed an absence of normal sounds, it just doesn't start properly. I've got the battery out on charge at the moment so will listen more closely when back in. While battery was out I've been hunting for other problems and discovered a slightly heat damaged main fuse feed box next to the battery. Damage isn't too bad (not as terminal as those reported here), slight heat damage to insulation on end of alternator cable, little bit of over heated plastic and slightly coloured patina to fuse. Checked tightness of connection and decided to undo, clean up and tighten the only rusted connection on the alternator end of the 150A fuse. On tightening, the bolt end (supposedly held by box) twisted and snapped the fuse! So just replacing fuse now! Going to have to order new box and Alternator lead in near future. Not my day so far...

The with compliments bit is funny enough without the "Feel the Difference" slogan - yes - on your pocket. Having had the car serviced, one of the wipers started connecting with the plastic cover at the base of the windscreen. I questioned whether this was now happening because of their removal to replace the cabin filter. Anyway, clearly they hadn't removed the wipers as I couldn't get them off and the plastic shroud has been damaged at one end where I guess they bent it up to get access without taking it off. IS this possible? But then the nice lady at Evan Halshaw on the service desk, who has obviously been trained to admit nothing, would not accept that the cabin filter was not replaced through the glove box! Anyway, I'm putting it down to coincidence and will disassemble the linkage and re grease as numerous posts on here have suggested.

Meant to say, there are definitely noises then I turn the key, I keep hearing them described as a squelch, but mine does sound more like a small electrical pump for a few seconds. All noises sound normal to me (as in before the problem). I have no flashing door error LED codes coming up. I have ordered a 109 - because I am clutching at straws and it's cheaper than a dual mass fly wheel and starter motor! - but there is no indication this has failed (no repeat clicks, no lack of glow plug dashboard light, no error codes in this direction). Someone mentioned (somewhere else) trying a bump (tow) start to test if it is the Starter motor. This sounds mad, might try a hill start, but not fancying no power on the way down if it doesn't start. Plenty of hills round here!

Hi Chris, This is where I started, the fault codes pointed to Crank shaft, this was replaced, that didn't help. Cam shaft sensor then replaced, that hasn't helped either. Right at the beginning instinct told me that despite diagnostics saying these sensors were at fault, I wasn't convinced.The engine ran fine once going. I'm aware that if the Crank shaft sensor fails while in motion, then the whole engine stops! This has never happened - so how come only faulting on starting. Further investigation of Ross tech web site (I want to point out at this point, if I sound confident, I'm actually out of my depth here) that if code 16705 (G28 engine RPM sensor intermittent) came up after extended cranking and replacing the sensor made no difference, to go back and check the basics! I'm now being lead down a different path and need advice. If - as I'm being told - the Dual Mass Fly wheel is on it's way out (I take that to mean disintegrating), then is it chucking crap everywhere? If so, would this effect the starter motor? Could this be a Starter Motor issue? Is it just that the started motor is not cranking fast enough? Could I be looking at having to replace the dual mass flywheel AND the starter motor to get this car starting again? I've seen indications of this on the TDI forum - but I'm no expert. Any pointers still appreciated Anthony

No improvement!! Well, no real improvement. I've now changed the Crank sensor and the Cam sensor. I could convince myself that there might be a slight improvement, but really that's insignificant to the actual problem, i.e it may start a little earlier after cranking for ages.... Having cleared all engine codes, these are the latest to be thrown up, I'm not saying that any more might be thrown up after more starts, but I suspect some of the later ones are a consequence. 16989 - ECU Defective intermittent 16705 - Engine RPM sensor - G28 intermittent The description is the extent of the information I have. What is sensor G28? I've seen in mentioned, but what is it? Is my ECU really defective, or is this an issue with a relay somewhere (109?)? The rpm needle still doesn't move when I initially start the car before springing into life after a few seconds and then bouncing around. Is this stopping the car from starting? I read that if the dual mass fly wheel is on the way out it can mess with the cam sensor, can someone confirm this. I mention this cause the mechanic I'm dealing with mentioned that it didn't sound fine. He mentioned a rattle as the engine is switched off as a pointer - any comments anyone? Any help appreciated