Frantic

Yes, I thought so too... well i was there for an hour while they did it.. and my little display is now all healthy hehe after resetting the fault code that is.. and magically the blower has found new life and gusts with the best of them now ;-)

If you do end up needing a regas too.. kwik fit are doing them for

Cheers George, yes actually most of my journeys i'd say are a-road or motorway and are rarely below 25 miles so few a little bit.. Its quite worrying that the dealers even got it wrong to start with in the vehicles life lol.. i just carried the history on as it began, and if it weren't for this site.. i'd never have known as the garages i frequent dont even know about the 505.01 oil needed.. which has been a shock having never known myself again until this site.. and looking back i'd say at the cost of the oil in the service history at least from my time with the car.. its only had regular diesel oil??? Even went to a motor factors to buy the 505.01 spec oil.. which they "said" they had... only to find that it was 505.00 and the owner explain.. but i sell this to everyone with a PD engine.. all the taxi drivers etc lol lol.. I said i'd happily use it with a written warranty from him that it was within the same spec as 505.01 and that should engine damage occur it would be at his cost to fix lol lol (jokingly of course). Oddly enough he then said maybe i should try elsewhere for the 505.01 lol Its a shame i daren't try and sort the cam belt myself really.. but think thats a job best left to someone who knows what they are doing.. that said.. another fault off my list.. the cruise control... hehe.. yup.. twas just like many had said. the switches over the brake/clutch had actually been knocked. Reset them and viola.. all is well :-) Getting the air con re-gassed today..

Yikes!! so i'm 15k over then :-( bummer.. 40k aint much is it? lol lol Cheers will have to try get that sorted shapish then..

Hmmm i've been reading with some interest the whole cam belt discussions... I've a 2000W facelifted 1.9 Tdi SE (115bhp) which i believe is the PD engine.. In the owners manual for the car the cam belt change period states 60k, and indeed in the service history from Seat/VW in its earlier year was indeed changed at 60k. I had it changed when i hit 115k, and am now at 163k and am thinking is it really 60k or 40k? should i be looking at getting it changed now? or have i 10k ish to play with? It seems an awful lot of garages no nothing about these PD engines to me, as since i've had the car (about 4 years) and done 100k in it.. i've obviously had it serviced a fair few times (although admittingly its crying out for one now). But what i've noticed is that the garage/s i've tried have been using oil in their service/s which seems to cost ~

Hey Mirez, Thanks for that.. and fancy them sticking it anywhere along the loom lol Ok will do a test along the wire.. and if it does indeed seem ok.. then i'll chop one from the front door. I'd have liked to have found the fault source as i've got a few faults which may also originate in that area.. (one shot trip computer where you only change once between power cycles, lack of cruise control..) I'll keep the post upto date with my findings in hopes of helping others too.. (well i will when i get opportunity away from work to sort it). Thanks for your response tho, much appreciated! Jason.

Thanks for the response big kev.. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...amp;hl=electric That was my previous post.. and erm.. well my bad.. its a Black and green wire.. i wrote the post above from memory of the problem ready to try and tackle it again now that the snow/freezing etc seems to be fading away.. Cheers.. Oh.. and yes.. there is an isolation switch in the door.. TIS fault finding procedure had me check that.. and it appears fine?

Hi Guys, well i've asked a similar question on here before sadly to no avail.. so am trying again as one of you must have come across this and could help us (me :-) out... Right i've many electrical glitches on my 2000W alhambra 1.9TDi PD SE.. but the one i'm hunting for right now is window related. I've had the dreaded window wont go up problem on my rear passenger window... and after checking the TIS disc found that a grey wire has no 12V on it..... i've checked the wiring betwee the door and the pillar and its sound... there is no 12V on the car (pillar) side of the loom... I've started to trace it back the wire runs along the passenger footwell and up behind the dash... this is were i struggle... how can i find where it goes now?? I know its source comes fromthe CJB under the steering wheel.. but that a different colour wire the supplies all four windows.. of which the others are working. so somewhere the four wires join but where is this point?? I presume this area is subject to corrosion of some sort and is most likely the area of my other issues too... (cruise control not being settable, trip computer only one funciton per power cycle etc lol) Any help would be great.. Thanks.

No mate, nor does the door key open all/close all windows operate it. You can hear the motor "click" on a downward request but nothing at all when attempting up? I know i have a cable that should have 12V on and it doesn't.. but can't for the life of me find where the wire joins the other 3 from the other doors before going to the common junction box. Thanks for the reply though :-)

:lol: no one care to comment on the where abouts of the wires etc???

Hi Guys, I'm fairly new here.. and have been reading with interest trying to sort out my elecrics problems lol But the 1st to tackle is the latest in what seems to be a never ending catalogue of failures. I (like so many on here) have a problem with my rear passenger side electric window. Symtops : While driving a few days back with the window open... when i went to close it.. the window went down not up.. and eventually went fully down.. still unwilling to go up. I can hear a "click" when trying to power the window down, but nothing when trying for up. I checked the Ford TIS disk for this problem and have found that the BK/GN wire has no 12V on it.. but trying to find the source of this wire has proved a problem for me. I've checked the door loom and that appears to be fine.. i've checked the wire on the sock on the door pillar and that seems ok.. but tracing the wire back towards the dash.. and i can't get any further?? does anyone know where the four BK/GN wires (one from each window) join before going to the CJB? Also.. I tried temporarily to add a wire from the other door (which does work).. onto the BK/GN wire on non working door.. but this made no difference?? could it be the regulator is dead in one direction only? all other TIS test.. appear to be ok.. and conclude the regulator to be at fault (obviously once the BK/GN wire is sorted lol) Can the regulator be tested on its own somehow?? Any help would be great... Oh.. and for anyone who has a similar problem and wants to actually get the window up and closed.. the only method i could find to do it was to remove the regulator assembly from the door.. remove the motor housing, re-install the regulator and manually wind the motor round to raise the window. Thanks in advance... (and hope! lol ) :-)

Well funny you should say that... at the weekend i decided to try and fix mine lol (i've a 2000 W Alhambra 1.9 TDI). I checked the sensors, and one at the front wasn't working and one at the rear. I checked this by the audible clicking that can be heard whilst the sensors are turned on. Anyhow what i discovered was: at the front one of the cables to the sensor (front drivers side) has coroded and snapped.. green corrosion a bit like on an old battery.. at the rear was a similar story but at the connector where all four sensors connect to the main car loom (a single connector under the car). This has also corroded in a similar fashion and again a wire had snapped. I first checked the sensors were ok.. by swapping them with another "working sensor and position" which confirmed that the wiring was at fault, and then traced the wiring to find the fault (simply continuity checking). I eventually spliced in some new cabling (solder joints and heatshrink) and now everything is back up and running (well the parking sensors anyways..) So just a thought but maybe yours is starting to corrode giving an intermittent fault as the cable makes and breaks with movements?