new nige

It is intermittent and only on starting, she turns but dosn't fire (very occasionally twice in the last week), leave her 30-120 minutes and she is fine and runs well. some threads sight relay 109 but I am confused as to what this does as you say the fuel pump is mechanical on the tdi? relay 30 and 167 are petrol problems with similar side effects. Anyone know what 109 does is it immobiliser / fuel related?

hello got the intermittent relay problem engine turns but fuel starved (1.9 tdi mk 2), a great FAQ post on how to access fuse box level 3 but which relay is it? As i understand it relay 30 and 167 are for petrols power and pump respectively. From threads the diesel equivilent to 30 is 109. mine turns so I don't believe its the power / starter motor relay. Anyone know what the number is for the diesel equivilent to 167 is (i.e pump as assume i am fuel starved) Also should I change both or am I barking up the wrong tree? cheers for any help nigel

Hello been away for a while no problems for a year or so. aux heater is smoky but working, tonight under cover of darkness went to change glow plug, done it previously with success 2 questions. 1 there is a bulge in the plastic cover toward the control wire end most posts with pics suggest a similar bulge, some comments suggest this is an inherent problem and nothing to worry too much about, any advice? 2 2no knackered nut heads has anyone overcome this with an easy out (its the long one in the end that gets hot hear the manifold and a short one on the plastic cover. any top tips on how to get these out appreciated the tork heads are no more . good to be back

not sure if you mean rear passanger, if so i had a latch or spring that pinged off a location hole, relocated and it worked again.

For those who are interested in doing the wires in the tailgate 1) Release both gromets and inspect for broken wires, 2) Remove door card from boot, handel has 2 screws, 2No. other screws behind pannels, 7 clips to pull off. High level trim pulls away. 3) remove rear seat belt high level bolt, pull away pannel, recover clips . 4) make your splices either behind the door card or behind the pannel at the seat belt bolt to avoid strain at hinge and where there is lots of space to accomedate the many wires likely to break. threading wires is fairly easy. 5) consider purchasing multiple core cable for extra armor and so you have a few spair cables to use in the future. nige

looks useful but, would first try and solve the drain problem thanks, measured drain on a friends sharan today and get 0mA so am now more confused, what fun, new battery and a clever charger gives me a little back up for the time being

50mA seems the rule of thumb but 110mA for alarm imobaliser ecu dosnt seem to excessive, i will try and measure it on another vehical to compare.

found broken wires in the tailgate gater, no obvious short but explains why the boot lock hasnt worked for a while. My current drain is consistantly 110mA which dosnt seem that much has anyone measured this is will anyone? it only takes a few minutes? where is the boot switch that opperates the internal lights as one of these stayed on, knock the boot shut and it turned off so suspect this was my problem.

pritty sure its the tail gate, but who konws until solved, more worried about damaging the gater to the tailgfate wires whilst inspecting them

just checked works in google crome but parts dont in explorer 9, dont know why

I had a 1997 and it had remote locking, does this have remote locking fitted originally? if so i found the key fods do die eventually fail, and hence apparent reprogramming dosnt work. can you borrow a key from someone to test?

Thanks all for the help so far! checked wireing diagrams fuse 55 seems to serve the tailgate lock so suspect mechanical damage in the gatered loom first (this all worked fine until 6 months ago), i see this is covered in FAQ but i havent been able to access all of these for a while now i.e. FAQ 4, 13, 44 i.e. splice repairs, tailgate card removal and soldering all seem unavailable ? are these down or can oither access these? Do you need to cut the gater off to do this properly? I tried to peal it back but need more length to acces the cables properly, is slack available if you remove the door card and pull it through?

sorry i think i read the fuse card upside down i think its fuse55 central electronics, i scaned this and found the faults above

pulled every fuse whatching for a reduction in drain fuse 58 droped the drain to 30mA so suspect this circuit. Reference to the fuse card suggests this is the headlight range control 5amp. if you pull it a you hear a relay disengage however it also seems to effect other circuits i.e the central locking dosnt opperate when fuse removed. Anyone got any pointers of where to go next? the haynes wireing diagram is a little crude, fuse numbers dont seem to match and goes to year 2000 (mine is a 2001) are good diagrams available? i have an old tis for galaxy mk 1 but this is a sharan has much changed? .

checked my current drain, i get 120mA drain when car is locked, this seems low to me though cyborg mentioned arround 50mA as normal, is 120mA within a reasonable working range, i suppose it needs to power the ecu, various sensors for locks and the alarm even when asleep. interestingly with a standard 72Ah battery this would flatten the battery in about 25 days if not topped up by the alternater.