BobNandra

Thanks Brian. How broken is this forum? We can still post and check posts ? This forum is full of good info.. I have a new clockspring on order and concur it must be this at fault. Even though it tests ok. I will see what resistance the the new and old one are and report back.. Thank you..

Thanks Brian. How broken is this forum? We can still post and check posts ? This forum is full of good info.. I have a new clockspring on order and concur it must be this at fault. Even though it tests ok. I will see what resistance the the new and old one are and report back.. Thank you..

Thanks Brian. How broken is this forum? We can still post and check posts ? This forum is full of good info.. I have a new clockspring on order and concur it must be this at fault. Even though it tests ok. I will see what resistance the the new and old one are and report back.. Thank you..

Ok. So update. I finally got round to opening up the steering wheel. The new clock spring I bought was the wrong one for this vehicle. £30. I must have a MK1 car.. (2000 plate). On removing the clock spring, it has tracks on the bottom side for the horn and non detachable wires on either side of the clock spring for the airbag. I've done a continuity test on the clock spring AFTER REMOVING the AIRBAG and it tests ok. So now I am really confused. It looks ok. But this is odd because before I was able to clear the fault, move the steering wheel and error would come back. But the spring wire tests ok.. The clock spring has Ford and VW logo on it. Part no. 7M0959653 And 95VW14A664AA It's £120 from dealer and there are only two left in the country. I don't know what to do especially as it test ok, but the steering wheel movement test suggests it is the clock spring.. How often can the fault be the airbag itself. I can't test it (NEVER apply any test voltage from meter to airbag. It will explode and kill you..!!) Any suggestions people.. Thanks..

Gents, Can you please help me with the Airbag light on. I checked the error with a LAUNCH diagnostics tool. I got the following; 00588 Airbag igniter,Driver side(N95) 00532 Supply voltage B+ (Short to ground) After clearing error I only get the first error now 00588. If I turn the steering wheel to a different position, i can sometimes clear the error but on moving the steering wheel, the error comes back and light comes on. Would you concur it is the Airbag clock spring/slip ring ? I have seen on eBay a number of these second hand for about £15, I was gonna get one and try it out. However there are so many and fit so many vehicles. Most have the part no.1J0959653 followed by B or C or D or E. My question is, are they all the same with the letter indicating a later and thus newer model, or do I have to go with an exact part number ? Buying a later version would mean less used version I suppose? Thanks in advance for your help. Bob.

Key fob light flashes but vehicle doors do not open or lock consistently? You change the batteries and the Key Fob Seems to work OK for about a 2 days and then same symptoms again ? The following is how I repaired my Key Fobs. WARNING. When taking the Key Blade away from the Remote Key Fob, make sure you do not loose the small black block which is just held in place in the Key Blade section. Loosing this will result in your car NOT starting. This is part of the immobiliser and is easily lost. This is what to try first to fix the simplest fault before going out and buying a new remote key fob. When there is a loose fitting connection, such as where batteries have just a touching connection, or a flexible metal connector just touches the circuit board to make a full connection, oxides build up. The second issue is what happened in my two key fobs. You need to simply remove the oxide and sometimes re-tension the metal clips with a nose plier or a thin blade screwdriver. You will see on the circuit board, there are scratches from the flexible connector coming from the battery section. Using a thin blade screwdriver, or fine sandpaper, rough up the silver connection point on the circuit board. Then using a thin blade screwdriver, or nose pliers, gently lift up the connector on the battery side. You may need to do the same to the middle battery connector. Reassemble key and test on your car.... (I am having issues uploading pictures but will load them asap.) Bob.

No Suggestions anyone ??!!! Not to worry, Problem Sorted. Although Relay no. 30 was powering up, it was in fact faulty. the usual Dry joints. I opened up the relay and resoldered all the connections. Problem sorted. However, a new Relay cost

FYI: the car turns over OK, just does not fire up. Checked Relay 30 works OK.

Been having intermittent starting problems with my Seat Alhambra. 2.0 Ltr Petrol 4cyl Alhambra. Now it won't start at all. I have always had a better response and answers from this site than other SEAT Specific sites therefore have come for help here again. So here goes. I have done the following; - Replaced the Coil with New one. Still faulty. (This car has one coil feeding the Distributor unlike the Ford which has two). - There is 12V at the primary connector of the coil. The coil checks out OK. - Checked for voltage at the connector which goes into the IPS (Ignition Pulse Sensor), which is housed inside the distributor. There is no voltage here !! The IPS unit itself is OK. After struggling for two days and by chance, checking the IPS connector again, there was suddenly 12V. I connected it and the car started !! Only two times, then failed again. Voltage is missing again. I do note on the DMM (Digital Multi Meter), after a successful start and then NO start, the IPS connector has a decaying voltage from about 0.25v down to 0.00 which indicates where ever the IPS connector is connected, it is a solid connection and is slowly discharging, probably a capacitor or other device. - Does anyone know where the IPS connector wiring comes from? - I can't see the ECU anywhere, does anyone know where it is in this car assuming the IPS wiring comes from the ECU? - Anyone have any ideas? Suggestions ? Where to look next ? I don't have a Diagnostic Tool and don't know how useful it would be in this situation. I have order a Service CD which I am hoping will have wiring diagrams. My Ford Haynes manual is too Ford Specific in respect of wiring diagrams and varies wildly. There is no Haynes Manual for my Alhambra.. Any help greatly appreciated.. Many Thanks - Bob.

I thought I would share some photos on my Window Regulator problem (aka Window Lifter in parts Catalog at VW). The window went all the way down but would not go back up at all. This happened in the evening. I opened the door panel and tried to remove the regulator under flood light so I could push the window up, but the Torx screws were all the way down hidden behind the bottom metal door panel. I had to remove the steel wire from the top of the pulley wheel and detach the metal clamp holding the window. I managed to unclip the right side window clamp from the plastic slider, but not able to detach the left one. After a lot of pushing and tugging, I finally pushed the regulator up and got to the torx screw clamps holding the window, pushed the window up and tapped into position ready for new regulator. On inspection of the regulator, I saw why I was not able to lift the window up at all. I pre-ordered a Window Regulator from VW for the MK1/MK2 model for £60, without the motor, on day 2, before trying to get to the regulator again on the third day. ( I gave up on day one due to poor light ). On inspection I found the steel wire was at fault and instead of buying a complete new regulator, I should have bought a Wire Repair kit off the internet. Ebay are selling a kit for £17. Oh well, lesson learned for when the left side window goes now, but this post is for all you out there who have yet to have this problem and may want to save some money. The photos are self-explainatory. The last photo shows the steel wire has unthreaded and jammed under the Green wheel, preventing the window from going up. Bob.

Can someone please tell me the power in watts of my current OEM speakers fitted in the mkii galaxy. I want to replace them as I have the door panel off and they are damaged. My owner's manual tells me the output from the stereo is 4x20 watts for each of the 4 speakers. 20w each. However, when I look up 17cm speakers, they seem to start at about 150w,generally speaking. Usually 170w. If I put in 170w speakers, will the sound be any good or will the stereo drive the speakers at all? I do NOT want to install an amp. Thank you.

I did note when the window goes up 2cm, it pulls away from the back of the door, as if the front slider has seized. I will have another look, but I don't know how to get the window to rise up to get to the torx window screws. The motor is working. I've seen repair kits which are just the plastic sliders, spools and cables on ebay. Anyone know if they are worth getting? About £15. That is if they are able to go into the regulator.

I had this problem of seizing wiper spindles. I took them apart and greased them up and refitted. After about 9 months, they seized again. So I took them out and tried again. However, this time I could not take the spindles out and managed to break the spindle housing side metal plate. The spindle would just not come out. I had to buy a new complete wiper assembly. I think it was about £180. In my Honest Opinion, and from my experience, you might as well get a new assembly, as you will probably do this all over again and it will be more time wasted. As they say, “Time is money” Also, doing the same repair again and again to keep a worn part going is a false economy and very time consuming, but hey, that’s just my opinion. Bob.

Hi all. My electric front window is stuck fully open. Have removed door panel and tried to move window up by hand but it is is stuck fast. Powering window and trying to close it, only moves the window up 2cm or back fully down. I can't get to the screws which are clamping onto the window since it will not move up. Questions; - does the regulator have a by-pass mechanism to disengage the motor to allow the window to go up? - from the symptoms, is this a regulator problem or a motor problem? Is this a common problem and usually the regulator? - if there is no by-pass, do I have to cut the steel wires to get the window to move up which means I will have destroyed the regulator and will need a new one for definate? - is the price the same for a new regulator at VW & FORD? Thanks all. Bob.

Same problem again !! I have a 2001 Seat Alhambra. I initially put up this post in 2006 when the coil failed, which means the original coil failed after about 5 years. I replaced the coil with an after market one; BERU , made in Germany. Now it is 2011, and amazingly, THE COIL HAS BLOWN AGAIN. After exactly 5 years !!! Again, the case was craked as per the pictures I posted before. What can we conclude from this? These coils are designed to last for about 5 years, or rather, they only seem to last for about 5 years. It does not matter if it is an original or an after market. This time I replaced it with an original. cost me