eupho

We need to renew my tyres. Currently 205/60 x 15. We have been on the mytyres web site, and they only have this size in either Summer or Winter rating. Has anyone any advice on this please. We do about 12K a year and regard ourselves as steady drivers. Our local motor shop states he can do alloys with tyres(probably Yokohama)for 350-00, I am not sure if these would be re-inforced. Any advice most welcome. Thanks Tom

I am gradually going through all the possible problems related to this problem. Having got the thermostat out, sadly the fault did not lie there...I would gladly have paid the price, albeit ridiculously expensive for what it is, and solved the problem. Before thinking that it may be drastic, i.e. head gasket, there are 3 remaining questions which others may know the answer to. 1. I had ruled out an air lock, but when I drained the system through the bottom rad hose, only about 5 litres of water came out, against the fact that the Russek manual. states that the cooling is 9 litres. It was only when I removed the thermostat housing cover, that another load of water came out. Does this suggest that an air lock was the problem? 2. Which of the pulleys is the water pump. Clearly I can indentify the tensioner,alternator,crankshaft....is the water pulley the bottom one next to the crankshaft pulley, or the one above. The car has got air con. To check the pump impellor I assume I just need to remove belt ? 3. I have put a hosepipe into both the top and bottom hoses and it runs out OK. Does ths mean that the radiator is clear, or can the water bypass the galleries. Thanks. Tom

Drained the cooling system down, by removing bottom hose as recommended in Peter Russeks excellent manual. However as the cooling system is 9litres, am surprised that on refilling it only took about 5+litres. I am not quite sure on how the plumbing is arranged on these. I did all the right things, including making sure that the heater was set to hot. I am about to go and check thermostat. The link of FAQ is fine for the stripping of the housing but doesnt mention removing it in the first place. I hope that the assembly is only held in place with 5mm hex bolts? Thanks for advice in anticipation. Tom

Thanks for advice. I have tried to find advice in respect of checking water impellor but cannot find a thread for V6. Any help please. Thanks for science lesson, I assume therefore that water under pressure boils at a higher temperature. Tom

A couple of days ago, after a bitterly cold night, I had problems with 1997 V6 overheating(after about ten miles). The pressure in the header tank was high and a lot of water was lost as I released the cap a number of times. Assuming that perhaps there was some frozen blockage, I left it for a couple of hours then drove home, seemingly without a problem, although I did not actually check under the bonnet. But it has now done the same twice in last 24hours. It tends to run cool normally, near the N on the gauge, so rightly or perhaps wrongly I think that the thermostat is not the reason, in that it perhaps never fully closes anyway. If this is logical then clearly I need to look elsewhere. I have read a number of threads concerning faulty header caps. But surely if the seal was not good then pressure would escape rather than build up? I am assuming that if all else is well, maybe the head gasket is blowing, pressurising the cooling system. What other checks could I make ? I have solved a number a problems thanks to other members, which I much appreciate, and am again optimistic.Thanks in anticipation. Tom

I am suffering with erratic running, more noticeable under load. I have just been under the bonnet in the dark and clearly there is a lot of arcing around the coil pack. Can it be removed for inspection. Are there any precautions to take? Is there a nack to removing the old plug leads...they are buried so deep in the head. Thanks in anticipation of advice. Tom

1997 Galaxy V6 2.8 I am having problems getting a replacement alternator, the Ford replacement at just short of

Will the Bosch120 alternater be sufficient to replace the existing 150. Seems that a new rectifier is little cheaper than replacement. Informed advice much appreciated along with possible suppliers. Ford want 282 Pounds. Thanks. Tom

I had hoped that removing the two bolts on the left hand side of the alternator(as you look at it from under bonnet)would have released it.Do I assume that there is another fixing, possibly as this is an air con model. I would really appreciate some help as soon as possible...Thanks. Tom

Usual story, no manual for this model. The alternator has stopped charging. Have removed belt, and assume that the bolts for the alternator are below the belt tensioning mechanism. Do I remove the tensioner. I assume I remove the three bolts to the right of the air box. I assume that the alternator bolts are below it. On the other end, i.e. where the wires are connected, there is a hose making it difficult to undo the wires. Is this simply a cooling hose which I can disconnect ? The vehicle does have air con and I am unsure as to whether it might be related to that. Once removed, I understand that if the slip rings are OK, it is possible to replace brushes/voltage regulator...it seems that these are not perhaps easily available.If the worst comes to the worst, how much should I expect to pay for exchange. Fords quoted 282 pounds, local auto electrician just under 200. Does the bottom section of the air box just pull out once the pipe is disconnected? Thanks in anticipation of help. Sincerely, Tom

Thanks for help fellows! Yes, I wrongly assumed that the tension was adjusted by moving the centre bolt on the tension pulley, as it is shown in Haynes for the 2.0 and 2.3. Have just completed the job with M8 bolt as advised, a piece of cake. Thank you again......and to think that Fords quoted me

Thanks for advice. However, I have just checked the tensioner and apart from the centre bolt there is no other hole in it. Looking from the air filter side(offside)the tensioner clearly is the top left of the 6 pulleys, I assume this as this is the one which fluctuates when the engine runs. If the centre bolt is nothing to do with the tensioning, 1) how tight should this centre bolt be and 2)how do I release the tension. Thanks in anticipation, the vehicle needs to be on the road at midnight! Thanks. Tom

Usual problem of no manual for 2.8, so please can you help. I want to fit new ancillary drive belt, but cannot seem to get the tensioner to move. It is clearly doing its job as it fluctuates with the engine running. How do I take tension off in order to change the belt. The nut is clearly left hand thread so I dont know which way to turn it.....logic would say anticlockwise and the nut bolt has tightened but the belt has not slackened. I notice in Haynes that for other engines the bolt is turned clockwise, but this seems to simply loosen the bolt. Thanks in anticipation. The vehicle used to run on gas, I have removed the tank from the rear will this be of use to anyone, if so what is it worth...I was surprised at the weight of it! Thanks Tom.

Usual problem, no manual for V6 so am not sure where to find the thermostat. Haynes states for other models that it is under battery somewhere, is this still the case. I have posted for some time re my V6 not starting, have spent much time under the bonnet to no avail. Took the most recent advice from a member(Wolfie)towed it to Fords and by lunch time it was done and washed for us ! Cost just

Dear Wolfie and Seatkid, Thanks for reply....It is currently raining very hard, so am unable to go and check. As Haynes do not do a manual for V6, I am not quite certain which pipe we are referring to. I am grateful for your advice and if this proves the problem I will be eternally grateful as I have followed so many other advisors and not solved the problem.... what is the IIRC pipe. Many thanks. Tom.

Having replaced the brake master cylinder and put it all back together, the car starts strongly and then dies in 5 seconds. I have aired this on here before but have still not solved it. No relay 30 on the V6! Here is the current state of play: LED on door does the correct thing. All leads are connected. When I first put the battery back in and turn the key, the needles all shoot round the dials before returning to zero I have checked all the fuses. The car is to be towed to Ford next week, but they obviously want money for diagnostic up front, before they start to sort the problem. Sadly I do not have the red key, only the torch one. I assume that a flat battery in the torch key does not affect the starting. The other problem I have is that the air filter box is broken, can anyone help please....I think the 2.8 is different to the others. Thanks in anticipation of any help, it is most appreciated. Tom

Thanks Geoff, Did your leds do the same as I have described. Look forward to hearing your result. Thanks. Tom

I have a 2.8 sat on the drive,turn the key and it starts for 3 secs. I assumed some sort of immobiliser problem, but I seem to keep getting responses asking what the led on the door is doing. Well on locking car it flashes regularly, once unlocked and the key turns on ignition the led comes permanently on for 3 or 4 secs and then stops, unfortunately so does the engine. Does this sequence rule out immobiliser problems and if so, where else might I start. In view of the number of long drawn out sagas with Ford I cannot simply go with an open cheque book. As a result the car has been off the road quite a while. This problem has only existed since I changed the brake master cylinder and I have checked carefully that all the wiring connections around the air intake have been replaced....so maybe the problem with starting is unrelated. Am I right in assuming that the V6 has no relay 30.......perhaps it has a different achilles heel. Many thanks in anticipation of any help. Tom

With respect to the door led. When the car is locked the led does its regular flashing. Once unlocked,led goes out and when the ignition is turned on it stays on for 3 or 4 secs then goes out.....but the engine stops too! Does this rule out the possibility of an immobiliser problem. Thanks again for help. Tom

It is some time since I posted this topic, and still the car sits on the drive...but I must now get it sorted. Nothing has changed, is starts for just a couple of seconds. The only thing I have not mentioned is that when I turn the key the needles on the dash shoot round, I dont know if it does this every time. Do mobile mechanics have the facility to locate the fault, particularly if it were to be on the ECM side of things? I have checked all the connections around the air intake, will a leak stop it starting as the connection with the rubber seal in it is a bit broken, although I have taped it around. I seem to remember that when I did the master cylinder replacement, I did start the car, in order to boost the brake pedal with the servo and,at the time, none of the air intake assembly was even connected, so I would be surprised if a leak was that crucial. Any advice please. I am in the Derby and Burton on Trent area. Does anyone have any suggestion as to a competent mobile mechanic for the V6. Thanks for any help, it is much appreciated. Tom

THANKS for all ideas this far......there does seem to be some dispute as to whether V6 has an immobiliser. I cannot think that a top of range V6 does not, but maybe I am mistaken. Having now looked again, in response to Sharanfx idea, I find a wire dangling around the pedals. It may be that I have removed it...it is some time since I tried to solve the problem of non starting and the dismantling of the fascia was some weeks ago. It is a flat black connector with a red/black wire and a yellow/brown one. As the standard Haynes does not cover the V6, the wiring diagrams are of little help...can anyone confirm what this is off please....just in case it is crucial to engine running ! Time is really of the essence so all help will be very gratefully received. Thanks again to all respondents.

Have just changed the brake master cylinder and clearly had to remove air intake and all sensors in that area. Having completed the job the car starts but immediately stalls. The problem is not helped by having no manual, although someone has kindly pointed me in the directions of Peter Russek manuals. The following questions arise: 1 Is it possible that, in disconnecting sensors/battery , I have caused the ECU to malfunction, perhaps by doing things in the wrong order ? I had thought that in any event it would go to the basic 'get you home' default system. I have found a firm (NOT Ford!) who say they can check and if necessary reset the ECU if I remove it. On this model, Jan 97 on a P, does the ECU come up through the dash binnacle, or down from underneath ? 2. The fact that it starts, if only briefly, does this rule out any problem with the engine immobiliser ? The standard Galaxy handbook states that there is a switch under the passengers seat, but there is not one there on mine, although there is a black flat box. Is it elsewhere and a possibility. 3. Any other ideas please? Finally an unrelated problem, My car has had a gas conversion at some point in its life. It is now back on petrol, but the tank is still under the floor and the spare has to be carried in the vehicle. Any suggestions for replacing the cradle for the spare....and does anyone want to buy a tank! Would appeciate all suggestions as the car is needed rather urgently. Thanks in anticipation. Eupho

Thanks for advice, will go and try again. I did pop into a VW garage and state symptoms, he suggested that it could be the immobiliser not reading the 'key'. Clearly I cannot do anything about this if this were the case. I did not get a red key with mine when purchased second hand. Do Ford have a 'master key' which could check the immobiliser theory...I understand that a new red key is expensive and certainly would not want to buy one if it did not solve the problem. The Haynes does not cover the 2.8, is there a VW one to cover this engine as I understand it is basically their V6 Thanks for advice, any other welcome.

I have finally managed to sort out the brakes on V6 2.8...replacement master cylinder saw to that. Feeling very pleased, I went to start it...no joy. It starts but dies immediately, blipping the throttle only saves it for a couple of seconds. I have done no other work on it and it has never failed to start. Clearly I did need to disconnect all the wiring on the intake side...I have checked that this is all reinstated. My reaction now is that it must be in the control unit, is this a fair reaction....I read that if there is a problem in the ECM, it goes into what Haynes calls 'limp home mode'! Well I am home but can't limp anywhere! Help please. The following are some other things I have noted. 1) not being used to working on cars with high tech ECMs I may have perhaps not done things in the right order, in respect of disconnecting leads/battery etc. 2) the battery which was fine but was flat when I went to start it after reconnection. Does this indicate a short perhaps. Is there anything I can do further to check/resolve the problem. As it stands not only would I be dependent on Ford dealer, but would also incurr the cost of them collecting it. This would be rather annoying having saved money doing the brakes in the first place. IF the worst comes to the worst,how much will an ECM be? Thanks for help, including those who advised on the brake problem, it was much appreciated.

I have spent time viewing very many posts on brakes. So, I have a common problem, i.e. the pedal travel is FAR too long...not at all reassuring. However, having done all the usual, i.e. pads, bleeding(3 times) they are no better. However, is this a clue...the rear discs work but only when the pedal is first pressed; with the pedal held down the pressure releases. This leads me to one conclusion, that the master cylinder is finished...i.e. the fluid is finding its way back past the piston.....a bit like the old bike pumps with their leather washers, the air would escape past it on the pump stroke. I think I am being logical...unless of course you know differently. Incidentally have priced up new master cylinder...staggered by the various pricing! As the Haynes does not cover the V6, am I right in assuming that the job to change it is the same as on the other models? Thank you in anticipation !!