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We need to renew my tyres. Currently 205/60 x 15. We have been on the mytyres web site, and they only have this size in either Summer or Winter rating. Has anyone any advice on this please. We do about 12K a year and regard ourselves as steady drivers. Our local motor shop states he can do alloys with tyres(probably Yokohama)for 350-00, I am not sure if these would be re-inforced. Any advice most welcome. Thanks Tom

I am gradually going through all the possible problems related to this problem. Having got the thermostat out, sadly the fault did not lie there...I would gladly have paid the price, albeit ridiculously expensive for what it is, and solved the problem. Before thinking that it may be drastic, i.e. head gasket, there are 3 remaining questions which others may know the answer to. 1. I had ruled out an air lock, but when I drained the system through the bottom rad hose, only about 5 litres of water came out, against the fact that the Russek manual. states that the cooling is 9 litres. It was only when I removed the thermostat housing cover, that another load of water came out. Does this suggest that an air lock was the problem? 2. Which of the pulleys is the water pump. Clearly I can indentify the tensioner,alternator,crankshaft....is the water pulley the bottom one next to the crankshaft pulley, or the one above. The car has got air con. To check the pump impellor I assume I just need to remove belt ? 3. I have put a hosepipe into both the top and bottom hoses and it runs out OK. Does ths mean that the radiator is clear, or can the water bypass the galleries. Thanks. Tom

Drained the cooling system down, by removing bottom hose as recommended in Peter Russeks excellent manual. However as the cooling system is 9litres, am surprised that on refilling it only took about 5+litres. I am not quite sure on how the plumbing is arranged on these. I did all the right things, including making sure that the heater was set to hot. I am about to go and check thermostat. The link of FAQ is fine for the stripping of the housing but doesnt mention removing it in the first place. I hope that the assembly is only held in place with 5mm hex bolts? Thanks for advice in anticipation. Tom

Thanks for advice. I have tried to find advice in respect of checking water impellor but cannot find a thread for V6. Any help please. Thanks for science lesson, I assume therefore that water under pressure boils at a higher temperature. Tom

A couple of days ago, after a bitterly cold night, I had problems with 1997 V6 overheating(after about ten miles). The pressure in the header tank was high and a lot of water was lost as I released the cap a number of times. Assuming that perhaps there was some frozen blockage, I left it for a couple of hours then drove home, seemingly without a problem, although I did not actually check under the bonnet. But it has now done the same twice in last 24hours. It tends to run cool normally, near the N on the gauge, so rightly or perhaps wrongly I think that the thermostat is not the reason, in that it perhaps never fully closes anyway. If this is logical then clearly I need to look elsewhere. I have read a number of threads concerning faulty header caps. But surely if the seal was not good then pressure would escape rather than build up? I am assuming that if all else is well, maybe the head gasket is blowing, pressurising the cooling system. What other checks could I make ? I have solved a number a problems thanks to other members, which I much appreciate, and am again optimistic.Thanks in anticipation. Tom

I am suffering with erratic running, more noticeable under load. I have just been under the bonnet in the dark and clearly there is a lot of arcing around the coil pack. Can it be removed for inspection. Are there any precautions to take? Is there a nack to removing the old plug leads...they are buried so deep in the head. Thanks in anticipation of advice. Tom

1997 Galaxy V6 2.8 I am having problems getting a replacement alternator, the Ford replacement at just short of

Will the Bosch120 alternater be sufficient to replace the existing 150. Seems that a new rectifier is little cheaper than replacement. Informed advice much appreciated along with possible suppliers. Ford want 282 Pounds. Thanks. Tom

I had hoped that removing the two bolts on the left hand side of the alternator(as you look at it from under bonnet)would have released it.Do I assume that there is another fixing, possibly as this is an air con model. I would really appreciate some help as soon as possible...Thanks. Tom

Usual story, no manual for this model. The alternator has stopped charging. Have removed belt, and assume that the bolts for the alternator are below the belt tensioning mechanism. Do I remove the tensioner. I assume I remove the three bolts to the right of the air box. I assume that the alternator bolts are below it. On the other end, i.e. where the wires are connected, there is a hose making it difficult to undo the wires. Is this simply a cooling hose which I can disconnect ? The vehicle does have air con and I am unsure as to whether it might be related to that. Once removed, I understand that if the slip rings are OK, it is possible to replace brushes/voltage regulator...it seems that these are not perhaps easily available.If the worst comes to the worst, how much should I expect to pay for exchange. Fords quoted 282 pounds, local auto electrician just under 200. Does the bottom section of the air box just pull out once the pipe is disconnected? Thanks in anticipation of help. Sincerely, Tom

Thanks for help fellows! Yes, I wrongly assumed that the tension was adjusted by moving the centre bolt on the tension pulley, as it is shown in Haynes for the 2.0 and 2.3. Have just completed the job with M8 bolt as advised, a piece of cake. Thank you again......and to think that Fords quoted me

Thanks for advice. However, I have just checked the tensioner and apart from the centre bolt there is no other hole in it. Looking from the air filter side(offside)the tensioner clearly is the top left of the 6 pulleys, I assume this as this is the one which fluctuates when the engine runs. If the centre bolt is nothing to do with the tensioning, 1) how tight should this centre bolt be and 2)how do I release the tension. Thanks in anticipation, the vehicle needs to be on the road at midnight! Thanks. Tom

Usual problem of no manual for 2.8, so please can you help. I want to fit new ancillary drive belt, but cannot seem to get the tensioner to move. It is clearly doing its job as it fluctuates with the engine running. How do I take tension off in order to change the belt. The nut is clearly left hand thread so I dont know which way to turn it.....logic would say anticlockwise and the nut bolt has tightened but the belt has not slackened. I notice in Haynes that for other engines the bolt is turned clockwise, but this seems to simply loosen the bolt. Thanks in anticipation. The vehicle used to run on gas, I have removed the tank from the rear will this be of use to anyone, if so what is it worth...I was surprised at the weight of it! Thanks Tom.

Usual problem, no manual for V6 so am not sure where to find the thermostat. Haynes states for other models that it is under battery somewhere, is this still the case. I have posted for some time re my V6 not starting, have spent much time under the bonnet to no avail. Took the most recent advice from a member(Wolfie)towed it to Fords and by lunch time it was done and washed for us ! Cost just

Dear Wolfie and Seatkid, Thanks for reply....It is currently raining very hard, so am unable to go and check. As Haynes do not do a manual for V6, I am not quite certain which pipe we are referring to. I am grateful for your advice and if this proves the problem I will be eternally grateful as I have followed so many other advisors and not solved the problem.... what is the IIRC pipe. Many thanks. Tom.