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Ford Galaxy Owners Club

buford_t_justice

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    Ford
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    Scotland

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    Chasing that damn Bandit !

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  1. Or better still don't bother getting the HID kit at all! All they achieve is blinding everyone who has the misfortune of being in front of your headlights. If you want improved lighting buy a better standard bulb.
  2. The noise you describe sounds like the electric power steering and is perfectly normal. Grinding noises are what your looking out for on these because quite a few have had steering racks changed before now.
  3. the spare tyre compartment was never there in the first place on a MK3. looks like you should have researched this a little better before buying !!
  4. Gosh so the Ford dealers drove it at those RPM's for you and after that everything was fine? If so did it stop it for good or did it come back anytime later? When you say exactly the same issues was that both the malfuction light coming on and the juddering at low RPM's? also what did you have to do to make sure it didn't happen again? Many thanks for your help. :-) after this thrashing it was fine. problem did not return but I've sold it now so who knows! exact same problem as you describe. nothing could be done to help they said. I used BP Ultimate diesel for best part of 55k miles and that didn't keep the carbon down enough to stop this.
  5. no DPF was fitted to mine
  6. I experienced exactly the issues you described last October. At first no fault codes stored but eventually it did when I drove to dealership with fault live and did not switch off until they had connected their laptop to it. Fault was traced to excess carbon build in turbo which was preventing certain boost levels being delivered and so it would automatically go into LIMP home. My dealer at the time spoke with Ford technical who advised a heat cycle of the turbo to burn off this excess carbon (this involved a drive of 45mins with revs in excess of 4000rpm - I kid you not!). I expected to return to garage and find the car in bits after that but to my surprise it did work and I could notice an improvement in driveability after this.
  7. Those reviews are right they are rubbish. They're not called Chinese ditch finders for nothing !!
  8. Due to sale of car, sensible offers invited for the following: (1) Complete set of genuine Ford rubber mats (i.e. all three rows) which have been in use for last 4 months only. (2) Genuine Ford roof bars which include key and torque tool (used for roof box during last two Summer's). (3) 4 x MK3 Galaxy GHIA wheels (16inch, spoke type, excellent condition) (4) 4 x TPMS valves which are 4 months old (5) 4 x Continental TS830P WinterContact tyres which are 4 months old and covered 4000miles (no punctures repairs) NOTE: Option to buy complete set of wheels, TPMS valves, and Winter Tyres available if requested as still complete and balanced. Will only split if unable to sell as complete unit. Any questions please ask. Delivery to be arranged separately but able to be flexible where possible.
  9. Not had that problem but that's some price for a repair. Do you have any 3rd party warranty to help with this? Have you considered contacting Ford CRC for assistance with the cost? What makes you say that this is an obvious known fault? I've not read this one about MK3 Galaxy/SMax/Mondeo before on the net?
  10. Did you replace with Ford parts or pattern parts? Pattern parts don't always fit as good as they should and can cause these issues. PS: You're also in the MK3 section !!
  11. +1 When the new MOT requirements come into force in January 2012, safety systems such as ABS and airbags come under greater scrutiny. If the car has these systems fitted, the test requires that the warning lights come on when the key is turned on, and then correctly go off (indicating no faults). If the light doesn't come on when the key is turned, or if the system indicates a fault, this can cause a car to fail the test.
  12. being nosey, but what has failed?
  13. Don't you have to replace the gasket when removing and refitting the EGR valve? Maybe the lack of a poor seal is causing the engine to cut out so quickly? Do you have any tips/photos on removing the EGR? I would like to have a look at mine but it's position at the back of the engine makes it look impossible for me to get to without carrying out some major surgery unless the 1.8 engine has it in a more convenient location?
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