flashgordon400

SNAP I fitted a new glow plug and nothing. As a last effort after try bridging the temp sensor, even though it didn't get above 8 degrees today, and checking the terminals to the aux heater pump, I finally thought I would try letting it hang down and surprise surprise, it worked. I then removed the electrical block from it's mounting and moved the block in different directions and it seemed to make it go on and off. A quick run around the street and the Galaxy was up to 80 in a flash. I went back to the Galaxy about a hour later and it has stopped working. I will investigate more on Friday or the weekend. It looks like the wires from the heater are solid core copper and being so tight from the heater to the terminal block mounting bracket it is possible I could have a break in one of the wires. Having changed the heater plug would mean more handling of the wires and worsening of a possibly broken wire. I hope this isn't something more involved such as the fan in the heater not turning from cold unless it is off axis. I will update this a I am not the only person in this position or the last.

I have just replace the glow plug in my aux heater. 2001 1.9tdi auto. The old plug metered up as being duff. It did work fine when I first purchased the car some 3 months back. I have only just noticed it wasn't working with this cold weather. The handbook clearly mentions level 1, 2 and 3. Level 1 is infront of your nose when you drop the right hand lower dash cover down. I removed the lower dash cover completely and can see the relays behind the fuse box, but can't see anything that looks like another fuse box.

My aux heater was working fine when I first bought the galaxy. Y 1.9tdi 115 auto. purchased around 3 months ago. Hadn't realy noticed it had stopped working untill this cold spell. Replaced the glow plug today and it still does NOT work. I put a meter on the old and new plug and it looks like the old plug is duff. I took the complete pump off last weekend as I was fitting a new thermostat as well and the collant was out of the car. As it has been off the car, is it possible the diesel hasn't bleed through to the pump yet.

Anti freeze topic again A neighbour of a friend comitted suicide some years back by drinking half a litre of anti freeze and going to bed. I gather it slows down the bodies vitals untill you stop breathing. He stopped breathing.

Thanks for the quick reply "Marinabrid" My job for tomorrow is to fix the snapped off exhaust from the auxhiary heater, so I shouldn't have to shuffle far to get to the compansator.

The sniffer test, as somebody has mentioned, is not done from the exhaust. It is a blue fluid that is held in a container that is placed into the neck of the header tank (the place you put water in your engine). The engine is run and the expaning air passes through the blue fluid. Turns yellow if compustion gasses are present. This test will determine if the coolant system contains any compustion gasses from the engine. It is remotely possible that the water system has breached the head gasket and is passing water into the oil return from head to block. The rover K-series is very common for this fault. I don't think this is common to the vr6 engine. It may be worth getting a pressure test done on the coolant system. A pump is used to replace the rad cap and the sytem is pumped up to usually twice it's normal pressure. This may help to indicate a system leak if the blue fluid test doesn't show a problem. The oil coolers do fail and are very easy to test wounce off the car. I tested a cooler last week after it was fitted to a fully reconditioned engine in a citroen 1.9td van. Being a white van, the white van man that drove it kept going untill it melted the pistons into the bores of the block after it emptied the sump into the coolant system causing it to overheat. The moraul of this is, check your oil and water regularly. Oil is not a good coolant in cars. Water doesn't lubricate car engine very well. The white residue in the filler cap could be due to short runs and cold mornings. If the area down the hole the oil filler cap comes from is full of what looks like a peach fromage frais I would consider that a problem. Don't eat it.

Hello to all I can not locate the rear brake compensator on my 2001 tdi. I have had the car up on stands today to put a new cam belt kit on and change the engine/filter and auto box oil. Just mentioned this to point out I am not a novice on cars. This is the second time I have looked for the compensator. Reason for trying to find it, is that my rear disks appear to be doing very little if anything. The handbrake is excellent.

Update as promised I collected the N93, green, line pressure solenoid from Ford. A fiddley job to fit, but it has cured my problem. It took 2 short runs before the gearbox computor had adapted to the new part.

WOW Thank you so much to mk2vr6 I had actually been to Ford main dealer and after about 30 seconds the guy said, which solenoid do I want whilst showing me the parts screen. A big uplift in my opinion of Ford main dealers. The forwarded inforamtion gives a full and compehensive explanation of how the box works. Many thanks again I will definetly take the time to read this fully. Great stuff.

I have done some more searching on my problem. The symptoms are known as "flawing". Slipping between gear changes. The solution will hopefully be the N93 line pressure solenoid. I will update this when I finaly manage to get the solenoid.

I have a "flawing" problem with my Jatco 5 gearbox. The revs rise between gear changes. tdi 5 speed auto 2001 VW main dealer just gave me a blank look when I requested this part. It wouldn't be an issue if I lived in the US. Info from VWvortex. Line pressure solenoid N93 HELP PLEASE

It has been mentioned during this topic that the term "reconditioned" has no legal definition. I have worked for 25 years in the engine reconditioning trade. 9 of these years have been spent as a bussiness partner in a cylinder head company. reconditioned, allows the reconditioner to sell a working product that is reconditioned, normaly depending on the sellers moral standard and skill, replacing the parts as needed. Re-manufactored has a legal definition in the motor trade. All deplaceable parts have to be replaced regardless of if those parts are worn or as good as new. The truth is, would you look inside your engine, gearbox or turbo to inspect it's contents. Would you know what to look for any way. The best recommendation is word of mouth. The big flashy reconditioners obviously make the most profite. You can get a very good service and an excellent quality product from a small company, if you can find the good guys. Yes their are some good guys about. In an ideal world you would buy a new unit from main dealer, but at an extortionate cost usually. For the man in the street it is a case of buying a new car and paying for it for 3 to 5 years or buying a 5 years old or older car and spending money on the usually inevitable repairs. Proper servicing can give you well in excess off 100,000 miles of relitively trouble free motoring. Even just the basic oil, filter and anti corrosion anti freeze renewal can give you years of extra mileage. The black and white of it is, that cars cost money to own and run. Sorry about the spelling, but I can't get the spell checker working.

I have posted this is the hope that one of you clever people will have at least half an idea off what course of action I should take next. 2001 auto 5 speed tdi I have had a rebuild done on my gearbox by a large reputable auto gearbox company. Repair / rebuild. I fitted it my self and was advised to clear any error codes from the previously faulty box and to disconnect the battery for an hour to restore the default values. I still have an RPM raise between gears. I am under the impression that the line pressure sensor can cause slow or harsh gear changes, but after a 5 mile run I have no error codes at all. Vag-Com 409. Does the line pressure sensor give an error code. Any knowledge of the above would be appreciated and very educational.

Thank you all for the super replies. I do have a small torn piece of rubber on the side wall of one tyre. It is the sticky out section that is supose to protect the wheel rim from curb damage. It does indicate that is has had a hard curb impact. I will check this first, then tyre balance before I start stripping out the drive shafts. You are all a very helpfull group of people. Many thanks. I hope to be able to give some advise on engine and cyclinder head problems in the near future.

Galaxy 2001 1.9 TDi auto 115 PSI 80k miles I have a front of car wobbles at around 20 to 30 mph. I think it may be a worn inner CV joint, as I had something simular a couple of years back on a Scenic. I think this wobble is not uncommon on Galaxy's as I was one on EBay with this symptom in the description. It had been put down to wheel balance. This is not possible at such low speed. Has anybody else had this problem. James.

A BIG thanks for the reply from MUMOF4 I didn't get much joy searching for "wooshing" or "pee shooter" Obviously it is kicking in having driven half a mile and stopped. It is topping up internal heat as the engine is still cold. The wooshing noise is the fact that the tiny exhaust has been snapped off by some donkey that has jacked the car up on a 2 poster with one arm in the wrong place. Obvious as the donkey has slightly damaged the cill.

sorry, I meant spell checker

Thanks for the updated knowledge that I souldn't be using WD40 on ignition parts. My initial post was more in relation to siezed parts. Appologies for not making it clearer. English was my worst subject at school and it does show. I am just fortunate for speel checker.

Hello to you all and may I be the first to wish you all a merry christmas. Well, I thought I would get in first with that. WD40 It is a water repelant. Ideal for ignition systems. At around

Galaxy 1.9 tdi auto 2001 I have only had this vehicle a couple of weeks. From time to time when I park up I have noticed a wooshing noise. The noise is like somebody is under the middle pasanger side of the car with a plumbers blow torch. I have looked underneath and can see it is coming from a broken off tiny little exhaust pipe comimg off what looks like a silencer the size of a margerin tub. Does anybody know what this device is and what it does.

Hello to all The Jatco 5 is the 5 speed tip tronic box in the Galaxy from 2001 The common failier is loss of reverse and 3rd,4th and 5th. The first simptom is a thud into 3rd The cure is to replace the reverse/high gear piston as they crack. This is a design fault in that the bottom of the piston is reccesed, allowing a crack to start at low miles. The modified piston is thicker in the base to stop the problem. Piston is around

Hello to all If you are using the Galaxy bolts that have been used with steel wheels you have the WRONG bolts. Alloy wheel bolts are very different from steel wheel bolts. Alloy wheel bolts have a spinning washer that allows the washer to sit on the alloy wheel before you tighten the bolt onto the washer. A bolt without a tappered washer will just tear the surface of the alloy wheel bolt hole and give a false feel of a tightened bolt. It can be dangerous to use the wrong bolts. You could get away with it if you use copper slip or oil on the tapper surface of the bolt before you fit them. This will at least give you a realistic feel when the bolts are tightened. It is obviously best to use the correct bolts as soon as you can get some. Galaxy's don't handle very well with 3 wheels.

Hello to all Mixing oils You can add anything of the correct grade for the engine to SEMI SYNTHETIC. You can can NOT add mineral to synthetic. The 115 bhp tdi galaxy 2001 engine is best used with PD oli from main dealer as it has an addative that stops the oil from rotting the wiring loom inside the cylinder head.

Hello to all If you have a flexible pipe pipe delivering the oil to the Turbo it will need to be replaced with a genuine replacement for any warranty to be honored, as the internall of the flexible pipe can collapse and also it retains a lot of burnt oil residue as it gets hot being next to the Turbo itself. Change oil and filter before you run the engine.