KFA

It should not be a fluid shortage as the symptoms would persist. I have an Mk1 2.8 auto. When purchased two years ago it had the symptoms you describe. I was advised to have the gear box fluid replaced. The gear box is designed for the fluid to last the life of the car so it is difficult to do this. I had it done at a small local garage for

It should not be a fluid shortage as the symptoms would persist. I have an Mk1 2.8 auto. When purchased two years ago it had the symptoms you describe. I was advised to have the gear box fluid replaced. The gear box is designed for the fluid to last the life of the car so it is difficult to do this. I had it done at a small local garage for

I doubt the Ford have made the locking nuts. I bought a Vauxhall Omega and found the wheel nut key was missing when I came to replace the tires. The local Vauxhall dealer tried a set of their keys and told me they did not fit. I was quoted

I doubt the Ford have made the locking nuts. I bought a Vauxhall Omega and found the wheel nut key was missing when I came to replace the tires. The local Vauxhall dealer tried a set of their keys and told me they did not fit. I was quoted

I have the same problem in my Mk1 Ghia 2.8. The car is unsafe to drive in this weather, especially at night. I have no leak from the screenwashers or the heater.I have fitted an electric fan to the dashboard on the drivers side (Coopers of Stortford) but it is not powerful enough. I understand that the air conditioning takes the moisture out of thre incoming air and if it is not working then the windscreen will not demist even with the heater on full. My air conditioning no longer works and I am considering spending the considerable sum needed to sort it out. The car has done 175K but still goes well. I have been told that if you drive with the front windows open a litlle and the heater on with the airflow directed to your feet the windscreen will clear but I have not tried it yet. Another suggestion is that the pollen filter may need clearing or replacing to improve the airflow. Using anti mist impregnated cloths on the inside of the windscreen was worse than useless. If you find the answer please post it. KFA

Not surprised you could not find this topic. Cheer up. What you describe is within normal operating parameters.

It is possible you have a leak from a radiator hose that only leaks when the radiator has heated up and is pressurised. I assume you see no sign of a water leak. Try running the engine whilst the car is stationary until the radiator fans cut in and look for a water leak then. In my Gal the leak was behind the engine in a T connection. It was difficult to get to but not impossible. If you do not have time at present as a very temporary measure try depressurizing the radiator by loosening the radiator cap (when it is cold) so the pressure in the radiator does not build up. Hopefully you should not lose water when driving but in hot weather the engine might overheat. The best of luck. Take care. If following my advice you do it at your owm risk. There is more information in the topic I started some weeks ago.

Further to last years post. I managed to get enough fluid out of the off side washer nozzles to pass the MOT. Before this year's MOT I realized I needed to do some more work as fluid was only dribbling out on the off side with a powerful jet on the near side. After again checking for blockages I tried to restrict the flow to the near side nozzle - no success in improving the flow to the other nozzle. I disconnected the electrics and the water connectors and prised out the nozzle from the windscreen side. When immersed in very hot water with descaling solution a fine plume of bubbles emerged from the nozzle. It took more than two hours of descaling including ensuring the liquid was hot and actually injecting it through the nozzles with a disposable syringe which does fit well and, if you use a size no bigger than 5ml and two syringes, you can syringe through both pin holes at the same time. The nozzle was refitted and a touch of cyano acrylate glue secured it. It now works as new. Why did just one scale up? I have no idea. Lidl sell an ideal descaling fluid that has lots of other uses. Note when removing the clips that secure the sound proofing to the underside of the bonnet take care as they are easily broken. When compressing them the shorter flange goes under the longer flange, otherwise they will not dislodge. The sound proofing can be secured without using all the original securing sites. I hope this helps others. I am grateful for all the useful information I have learnt from this site. Such lovely vehicles spoilt by minor design faults. KFA

Thanks. I once replaced a broken plastic pipe on a BMW radiator by tapping and Aralditing in a brake bleed nipple. It lasted the twelve years before I scrapped the car. Getting a photo could be difficult; it was hard enough dealing with the jubilee clips. If I can I will post it but not for the next few days. Cheers

I recently started to need to top up the radiator regularly in my R reg 2.8 Auto Ghia (172,000 miles). I suspected that a hose connection was leaking when the radiator was hot and pressurized. I found a slow leak in these circumstances in a T connection at the back of the engine, gear box side, just accessible from above. The problem was due to the plastic connector denaturing. A 22mm copper pipe is an ideal fit in the hoses. A standard 22mm T connector fitted with short lengths of 22mm pipe solves the problem simply and cheaply. Strangely the hoses still looked in good condition. Hope this is of help to anyone else in this situation

Is the problem the clutch slipping or very jerky gear changes? If the latter try changing the gear box oil. I had the oil changed in my R reg 2.8 auto (172,000 miles)and now have smooth gear changes. It is a difficult job for DIY; Ford say the oil should never need changing. A local garage charged

I have the same model and a similar problem with the offside washer nozzle producing little more than a dribble. I have cleaned out the system to no benefit. I have redirected the nearside washer so that one jet hits the right hand screen but this will not help with the MOT. The only answer I can see is to restrict the flow to the near side jets in the hope that the offside jet with improve. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. KFA

Have you thought of including a container of the Wynn's product that is supposed to stop leaks from auto gearboxes and improve their function. It depends how severe your leak is. Older Galaxies seem very corrosion resistant and more problem free than later versions. You may end up happy with your buy other wise it is worth over

You need to get this sorted. The Legionella bug loves these conditions.

Thanks Radiotwo. I cleaned the nozzle thoroughly using compressed air both ways and descaling fluid. It improved enough to pass the MOT. The rubber nozzle surround is a sod to get off as the rubber flange that must be pressed inward to free it is at the back of the nozle and inaccessible. It came off with some leverage but the rubber had perished and lost its elasticity. It would not lock back in place but did with use of a pond sealing compound. Incidentally the nozzle has a VW part number and is made in CZ. KFA

My Mark 1 Galaxy Ghia has just failed the MOT as the driver's side screen washer nozzle was u.s. I had only noticed this just before I took it in so adjusted one of the two nozzles on the near side to hit the driver's screen. It was failed as the washer was delivering insufficient fluid, which was not really true. I have disconnected the water tubing behind the near side nozzle and blasted through with compressed air. Water flows freely out of the tube when I operate the washers but not out of the nozzles when I reconnect the tube, though the nozzles do not seem blocked. Each nozzle has an electricity supply. What is this for? Is it to heat the nozzles in freezing weather or is there an auxiliary pump or a valve. Any helpful advice would be appreciated. How do you remove the whole nozzle fitment, mine seem to be stuck in tight. KFA

My P reg Mark Galaxy Ghia failed the MOT today as the offside screen washer nozzle was not working. I have tried cleaning the nozzles; I removed the cover under the bonnet and blasted through with compressed air. When I operate the screen washer with the offside pipe disconnected fluid runs out freely but when I reconnect it - nothing. What is the electricity supply to the nozzles for? Is it a heater to prevent the nozzles from freezing up? How do you remover the nozzles in their rubber casing. They have resisted gentle application of a screwdriver but the paint didn't. Any advice would be much appreciated. The system was working well until last week. Thanks in advance KFA

You cannot get a Haynes manual but there is a simple manual, just for the six cylinder engine. The cost is around

I have the same model with the VW six cylinder engine. It came without a handbook but runs well on standard unleaded. KFA

Thats the same colour as mine so im assuming WGR must be paint code related!! WGR is not the paint code. The paint code is the last entry on the bottom left of the vehicle identification plate which is on the nearside door pillar. Mine is F5. Halfords did not carry this in stock but identified four Ford colours, including blue, beige and green as carrying the number F5. They did a trial mix of the most likely which looked spot on. An aerosol can of that mix cost

I have the same problem with my P reg 2.8 Ghia Auto. The colour is a powder blue/purple metallic finish whicch seems a common colour for Galaxys. The only code I can find that might be for the colour is also WGR. Can anyone help? KFA