kevinp72

That's great Mirez, thanks for the reply. That's one less thing for me to worry about. (sorry for the late reply, been away). Kev

Hi everyone, Does anybody know where to get the tolerences from for the data on vagcom? What I mean is, for example, The expected reading for my MAF sensor at tickover is something like 250mg/(something) and mine fluctuates from about 240-260. Is this in spec? Revving the engine provides a pretty good curve on Vag Scope but it does have spikes (comparing expected and actual readings). I've checked the FAQ's and Ross-Tec and can't seem to find the answer. I guess Ford/VW is the people who would know but, any suggestions welcomed please. Very briefly, I have an issue with vibration or possible miss-fire at a fixed engine speed and I am trying to track down the culprit as there are no fault codes which I believe are relevant. I don't know if the spikes on vagscope are the cause of my problems or the result of a problem elsewhere. I had a turbo overboost fault yesterday so It may just be all coked up. A feel a good clean out of EGR Valve and Inlet/Outlet manifolds coming on! Thanks, Kev PS. Great Forum, providing so much help! Thank you all.

Mine is the same, except in sub-zero conditions, where it does stay on for a couple of seconds. Always starts though.

Hi Darren, The front parking sensor 'black box' is mounted on the floor under the passenger seat. If, like me, you have had a water leak in the passenger footwell (a common occurrence and well talked about here), it may be that your electronics are wet. If you are lucky, they can be dried out. I re-mounted my unit on spacers in case of another flood! I'm not sure where the rear sensor 'black box' is though. Kev

Hi Wink, There is a write up in the FAQ section I think. Although it mentions it is for a mark 1, I found it useful. A good tug on the drivers side and then it should slide out fairly easily I sem to remember. Hope this helps. PS. I would also be curious to know if you find a piece of foam in a plastic bag marked up with a VW part number in the scuttle drain (behind the wiper motor I think). I have no idea what this is for, but several other people on a German forum have also found it??? Kev

Hi all, After having no joy with my gal (abnormal vibration post in newbie help) I did find out some info that may help someone. Whilst being tested, my gals intercooler pipe burst. I didn't see it so i'm not sure which one, but it takes the hot gas to be cooled. After receiving the wrong part 3 times, Dave at Direct Diesel Injection in Chester (can't thanks this guy enough for all of his help and highly recommend him!) got hold of VW technical support and found out that only a few hundred engines were modded at the factory. The mod was something to do with fixing intercooler pipes that got too hot and burst. Apparently the mod didn't work and something else was tried, but this mod isn't general knowledge and hence the wrong part kept arriving. The correct part was eventually sourced and came from Belgium and has now been fitted. Just thought this might save someone some time and/or frustration in the future. Kev

Well, It wasn't the injectors, and Dave the diesel man has no idea what the problems is. I'm afraid it's time to trade her in. I have no more money to throw at her. I can't believe a car of this age/mileage has this problem. Oh well... :)

So the old gal went to the diesel specialist. "I've checked everything over and its not the fuel system" is what he said. Not what I wanted to hear! He suggested the Dual Mass Flywheel. "I changed it 2 weeks ago" I replaied. Doh! So I told him that I would pick the car up the following morning (This morning) but he called me at 8.30am. He said that this problem had been bugging him and that he refused to let the car beat him. He had spoken to several other mechanics about it and one suggested a sticking injector. This appears to work when interogated and shows no fault code, but can cause a mis-fire. He is going to change the injectors for me (FOC) to see if this cures the problem or not. He seems a really great guy (Dave @ Direct Diesel Injection Ltd, Chester) and doesn't give in easily! Roll on Monday and hopefully an end to my woes...

The exact same thing happened to mine about 6 months ago (6 years old and 60K miles). New centre & rear box (corroded at the join, not any noticable noise difference, they found it on the MOT) cost about

So,I'm 8 months on and now at 66K Miles, and have replaced the clutch (because it was slipping) and Dual Mass Flywheel whilst I was there (it was knackered). I was hoping that the problem was related to the crank-case sensor which picks up off of the DMF. Unfortunately, this hasn't cured the problem. I have been to another garage who has told me it is a definate mis-fire on one of the cylinders. This will be caused by either: The Fuel pump, An injector, The injector loom or The cam shaft (apparently the injectors are electronically controlled but are timed by the cam?). I doubt if the problem is the camshaft (or maybe hoping as it sounds dear!)as the problem is only in at a limited engine speed. Surely the cam would cause a problem throught the rev range? Anyway, A diesel injector specialist has told me that they can diagnose the problem for £90 + VAT, so she is booked in for the morning.... Watch this space!

Just had mine done (including the Dual Mass Flywheel). Looked a bit daunting to me so I got my local garage to do it. I paid

I have just had mine done too (Clutch, DMF, Plate & Bearing)£616 fitted inc. VAT which I thought was a pretty good price all things considered! The clutch started slipping so needed to be done. I wanted to change the DMF as well as I had suspected it of causing a vibration that I get at approx 1600-1900 rpm (the DMF was knackered anyway!). It's a wierd one. It's almost like a cylinder not firing, but then it clears as you pass 1900rpm? Unfortunately, this hasn't cured my problem so it's booked in for a diagnostic check on Wednesday. Frauds wanted £70 but a local garage is doing it for £30. My Vagcom isn't showing any faults, so I don't know how worthwhile the check will be, but it's only £30. Will let you know if he finds anything worthwhile...

Hi, This happened to me but luckily, drying out the ECU sorted my problem. I believe, looking at this forum, that this is a common fault so it is possible that the second ECU may be faulty. I think your idea of trying a known good ECU is the way forward. It would certainly rule out plugs & wiring. Hope this helps. Kev

thanks for that kev i might just give it a go for a tenner not much to lose if it doesnt work to be honest. cheers matey That's exactly what I thought and was pleasantly surprised. Kev

Hi Steve, I'm no expert but the link below looks like the one I have (I don't have access to ebay from work so can't check for sure). I paid about