mcshane

The AVC doesn't have any effect, you still get the fade in from silence. Using the bluetooth connection works just fine, so maybe the answer is to avoid using the line in connection for audiobooks. A bit of a pain, I'll do some more digging and see if I can find out anything useful.

I've just picked up a 2013 Titanium, and we were playing an audiobook via the line-in connector (from my wife's iphone running audible). Every time the narrator was silent for more than a second or so, the volume would cut to silent, and fade back up once the narrator started speaking. I can understand why you might do this - it would mask noises from plugging/unplugging cables. However, it makes audiobooks kind of pointless, since you miss the start of every sentence. Has anyone else seen this? There didn't look like an easy setting to change this behaviour - is there a fix out there? Thanks,

That work just fine - the stalk was down, turning it neutral made the lights go off. Thanks very much!

I was cleaning the sand from the front of our galaxy (03 diesal ghia model) and on turning off the dyson I could hear the 'lights on' warning buzzer as the drivers door was open. The front left sidelight and rear left brake lights are on. Turning the lights on and off doesn't turn them off, they're on when the car is locked. It looks light a parking mode (ie lights on so people don't crash into you) but I can't find any mention of this in the handbook, and can't find any control to turn them off! Clearly I knocked something when cleaning, a lesson to be learnt there I'm sure. Anyhow - anyone know how to turn the lights off?

I had to change the dipped beam headlight as it went last week. I got a pair of 'philips x-treme power' bulbs from powerbulbs.com. Arrived in two days with a free pair of sidelight bulbs. The screwdriver you need is the torx T25 size, my local tool shop (Mackays in cambridge) had a 30cm version, which was perfect for reaching the bottom two screws. I guess once I had all the right bits it took about 30min to do - a torch is essential for seeing where the bottom screws are. Driving last night, the headlights do seem a lot brighter than the previous ones I had. All good really - thanks to everyone else that posted details of how to do this.

Thanks for the pointers, looking forward to the holiday.

Although I don't like the look of the weather :lol:

Here!

So last night I reassembled the winch, screwed it back into place, and the spare wheel is now attached as intended. All good so far, but we'll see if I get to cornwall on saturday with the wheel still in place... One tip for anyone else doing this is if you take the vertical plastic corkscrew section apart, at the bottom are a set of curved metal washers. I think these are there for adjusting the fit of this section inside the winch box. If you put them all the same way around (as I did first time I put it all back together) then the vertical section is not quite as big as the metal casing, so it is designed to slip as you turn it. On mine, I needed to stack the washers in three sections, so the top and bottom sections were one way up, with the middle section the other way up. This makes the stack of washers taller, so the height of the corkscrew section was the same height as the inside of the winch case. This means it doesn't slip as you turn the handle. Had I taken more care when I took it apart I probably would have spotted this, but it slipped and these washers flew everywhere...

The photos on the faq have been really useful. I got the winch off, just enough room above the hanging wheel to get an allen key in. A lot more room on the nearside, so I did the offside first then the nearside so I could support the winch - I already had a bucket under the wheel supporting that weight. I drilled the rivets out, and extracted the wire - it was too twisted to go through the plastic hole where it comes out the winch unit, so I cut it out and bought some new wire for 71p. A friend at work has brazing kit and some small metal pipe which he helpfully drilled through to match the wire diameter. We've (well, lets be accurate, he) brazed those on this morning, and I've filed the winch end so it fits into the plastic wheel. So tonight I've just got to buy some grease, put it all back together, and see if the brazing holds...

Okay, so possibly they've been snapped by tightening the winch too hard. Thanks for the help.

I guess I need to get underneath and see if I can undo those, they look like allen key type bolts, so not sure if there's enough room above the wheel. When you unwind the winch and get the clicking noise - what's actually happening? Is it turning the spool of wire at all? Is there any chance that more slack wire can be pulled through, or is it likely just to be jammed solid?

Hi, I've just bought a 53 Ghia TDI, and going through the usual array of problems. The cigarette lighter fuse was gone, and I wasted two new fuses before spotting the small metal disc in the bottom of the socket causes the shorts... Next problem was checking the tyre pressures came up with 28psi all round - no idea how long it had been driven like this, but swiftly sorted out. Anyway, next problem is that I've got a screw stuck in one tyre, so I spent last night changing over to the spare to take it to a garage today. Unwinding the spare was okay, but then unwinding the cable more just made a ticking sound, and the wheel got no lower. After a little while at winding/unwinding, the cable let out enough to get the wheel off. So I put the bad wheel back on the winch, and drive to the tyre place. First thing they do is try to remove the wheel, and now the cable won't let out more than 3 full turns on the winch, so not enough (I think) to push the end of the cable through the wheel to get it off. So I've found a couple of things in the faq about changing the winch mechanism or just taking it apart and changing the cable. I can have a go at both, but any hints on how to get the wheel off as it's suspended from the cable which won't let out anymore?